Cattleya care. Cattleya is the luxurious queen of orchids. Spider mites, mealy mites, scale insects, whiteflies, aphids

In almost every home and even in office premises there are a wide variety of indoor plants. Their flowering species are especially pleasing to the eye. By the beauty of the flower, the undisputed leaders are plants from the orchid family. The most attractive are rightly considered various species of the Cattleya genus.

Peculiarities

The homeland of wild orchid species is Central and South America. The rather numerous genus of Cattleya today has 60, according to some sources, and 65 species, according to others, most of which live in the Amazon jungle and in Brazil.

Little was known about orchids before the beginning of the 19th century. Thanks to W. Swayson, some instances of this amazing beautiful flower fell into the hands of the English researcher of tropical plants and gardener Cattleya. In his greenhouse, Cattleya began to grow, and then cross between various wild-growing species of orchids. Over time, the hybrids he bred were combined into a genus called Cattleya.

The genus Cattleya belongs to the sympodial group. One of its distinguishing features is the above-ground root (rhizome), due to which they grow in a horizontal direction. The root, in addition to the main body, also has adventitious, or aerial roots. In cattleyas, they originate from the rhizomatous sections of the shoots. The powerful root system of the plant allows it not only to firmly hold thick fleshy shoots, but also to participate in photosynthesis, absorb water and nutrients from the air.

In the vertical direction, the growth of orchids is due to shoots. The height of indoor plant species, as a rule, varies between 30-45 cm., and in natural conditions, individual individuals reach a one and a half meter mark.

The shoots of the sympodial type of orchids have a significant thickening in the lower part, which is called a pseudobulb or a false bulb, as a rule, with two, and in some cases with three internodes. In wild plants, the onion serves as a storage nutrients and in case of extreme conditions such as drought, or conversely, excessive moisture, and in the active growth phase.

For hybrids bred specifically for home breeding, the functionality of the false bulb is somewhat reduced, especially if the plant is properly cared for, but it is not useful, since it is the pseudobulb that is the source of leaf and peduncle growth.

Depending on the number of leaves, one-leaf and two-leaf plants are distinguished. In shape, they resemble an elongated oval with a pointed upper end. Dense, fleshy to the touch leaves have a green uniform color.

Each type of orchid from the Cattleya genus has its own flowering period. The peduncle is formed in the axil of the leaves and is covered with bracts, which form a small case with their structure and location.

Upon reaching a certain height, the top of the peduncle opens the bracts and one or more, depending on the species, flowers are shown on the surface.

Beautiful and, as a rule, rather large flowers have a symmetrical shape. The flower has 3 sepals (sepals), 2 lateral and 1 upper. Orchids have three petals - two lateral (petals) and one in the shape of a lip (labellum), located in the lower part of the flower and, depending on the species, have a wide variety of shapes. Inside the lip, which, as a rule, has a brighter color compared to the petals, the genital organs of the flower are located - polylines. Orchids bloom for two, and some species for three weeks.

Description of popular species

All orchids, and the genus Cattleya is no exception, are either epiphytes that grow on other plants, or lithophytes that prefer to grow on rocky surfaces.

Cattleya hybrid (Cattleya hybrida). This type of orchid is perhaps the most diverse in terms of the number of hybrid forms bred and the most popular with flower growers. To obtain numerous varieties of hybrid Cattleya, Cattleya lipped was used as a reference.

Large-flowered Cattleya labiate (Cattleya labiate) refers to epiphytes. The pseudobulbs of the plant, which vary in size from 13-25 cm, have the shape of a slightly flattened spindle, and their surface is covered with membranous scales with a shade of greenish-gray. Narrow (7-8 cm) leaves with a small cut on the apical part are oval in shape, their length for the entire growth period does not exceed 23-25 ​​cm.

The most attractive in orchids, of course, are the flowers exuding a pleasant aroma. With a lilac or pink color, the petals with sepals are shaped like a lancet or an irregular oval with slightly wavy outer edges. The lower petal (lip) is shaped like a funnel. The presence of a bright purple-crimson spot on the inside of the lower lobe and a pale yellow mark with red lines located closer to the center of the lip is a distinctive feature of Cattleya labiate. The diameter of the flower varies between 12-17 cm, the size of individual specimens reaches 18 cm.

Another well-known species is orange-red cattleya (Cattleya aurantiaca). This type of orchid has a fairly large size. Its stems, with good care, can reach a length of 40 cm, and leaves - 18 cm. The pseudobulb, which has the appearance of an irregular oval with a thickened upper edge, gives rise to two oblong leaflets with an inconspicuous notch in the apical part and a short peduncle.

On the peduncle are small, only 4 cm in diameter, flowers, framed by lanceolate oblong petals and sepals. The lower lip in the form of a narrow funnel practically does not differ in color from other petals, except small area, located closer to the pharynx, there are small strokes with a bright red or brown tint on the main background.

Cattleya aurantiaca is often used to breed new varieties of orchids that differ from their progenitor in flower color.

Another type of cattleya can be safely attributed to the most common and beloved by many flower growers - this Forbes Cattleya (Cattleya forbesii). The length of the stems in this species does not exceed 25-30 cm marks, and their shape resembles an elongated spindle. The Forbes orchid is a two-leafed plant. In shape, the leaves are similar to an elongated oval with a blunt outer edge, their length is in the range of 13-15 cm, and the width does not exceed 4-5 cm.

The inflorescence short in length is the carrier of 2, and in some cases 6 small in diameter (about 10 cm) fragrant flowers. The color of the sepals and 2 lateral petals on the outside varies from yellowish-olive to light shades of chestnut.

The lower petal (lip) differs from them both in color and in shape. The outer side of the 3-lobed lip is painted in soft beige with a pink tint, and on the inner side, along the edge, the orange smoothly turns into a pale yellow color. The shape of the lower blade resembles a triangle with smoothed corners and a wavy lower edge, on the inside of which the color changes from bright orange with brown strokes as it approaches the edge to pale yellow.

There is some resemblance in appearance to Forbes' Cattleya Cattleya luteous forb. The flowers, or rather, the sepals and 2 lateral petals, are painted in a pale olive color and match the shape of the Forbes Cattleya. The only difference is in the color of the lips - beige and yellow shades predominate on the inside, and the fringe along the edge is either pale yellow or white. This variety blooms 2 times a year and is perfectly adapted for growth and breeding at home.

Thanks to the crossing of Cattleya forbesii with the species Cattleya harrisoniana, an equally popular and beloved species was bred. Cattleya venosa. This multi-flowered hybrid is very similar in shape and color of sepals and petals to Cattleya forbesii, but the predominant tones are most often pinkish brown.

One of the tallest plants of this genus is considered to be Cattleya bicolor. The height of a mature plant reaches a one and a half meter mark; taller specimens are also found in nature. The shoots themselves grow up to 70-75 cm in length and give rise to two, sometimes three leathery narrow leaves, growing up to 18 cm long and up to 5 cm wide.

On a short (up to 20 cm) peduncle, 2-8 fragrant flowers develop. The sepals and lateral petals are brown with a greenish tint, and the spoon-shaped lip can have a variety of shades: white, purple, carmine red, violet.

A fairly tall plant is considered Cattleya trianaei, in a sexually mature state, its height is not lower than 1.5 meters. The diameter of the flowers ranges from 15-20 cm. The pale pink color of the sepals and lateral petals contrasts with a bright crimson lip with a golden or yellow spot located closer to the center. The orchid is characterized by a winter-spring flowering period.

No less famous Easter Cattleya (Cattleya mossiae). The plant has rather large (from 15 to 18 cm in diameter) flowers. The color of the petals and sepals varies depending on the variety. There are white, pale pink and lilac specimens. The lip is shaped like a narrow funnel with a wavy edge with a bright yellow spot in the center and a purple color along the edge on the inner surface.

Cattleya earl imperials is a hybrid obtained by crossing Cattleya trianaei, Cattleya mossiae and Cattleya qaskelliana. The well-known and beloved variety is distinguished by predominantly white petals with double-velvety edges. The inner side of the labellum (lip) is marked with a bright yellow spot located closer to the central part.

Another equally well-known species is Bowringa Cattleya (Cattleya bowringina). The height of the stems with oval-shaped pseudobulbs is about 75 cm. The flower grower, whose length does not exceed 25 cm, bears several flowers of a predominantly lavender hue. When crossing, orchids with dark purple, blue and light lavender flowers were bred.

To date, about 100 varieties of Cattleya orchids have been bred. The most famous varieties include the Baudelaire, Maxima, Green Emerald, Astilba and Godetia varieties.

Home care

Cattleya orchids, pleasing with a variety of shapes and shades, are more capricious and demanding to care than other types of indoor plants. Caring for them is both difficult and pleasant. Many factors affect the growth, flowering, and longevity of cattleyas, so it's worth researching them all before buying.

Orchids are very fond of bright light, but do not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight. The light should be soft and diffused, otherwise overheating cannot be avoided, which can lead to the death of the plant.

At home, an orchid is usually installed on a windowsill. If the window is on the south side, then it is better to cover the plant a little from direct sunlight. The western or eastern location of the window opening is the best option for the growth and flowering of orchids.

In the warm season, the orchid is best placed not on the windowsill, but near it, away from direct sunlight, or on a glazed loggia with constant access to fresh air, but without drafts.

The length of daylight is directly related to the flowering period. Conventionally, cattleyas are divided into 2 types: autumn and spring. Autumn Cattleyas (these are mainly single-leaf plants that prefer to bloom in autumn) do not require a long recovery period. For spring species of orchids (these mainly include two-leaved cattleyas), the flowering period falls in the spring, their dormant period lasts a little longer than that of autumn types.

In the winter season, when most types of orchids go dormant and daylight hours are greatly shortened, it is not only possible, but even necessary, to additionally illuminate the space around the cattleya.

Often used as a tool fluorescent lamps. With their help, you can increase the daylight hours for a plant up to 10-12 hours.

The temperature regime is another factor affecting the growth and flowering of Cattleya orchids. Favorable temperature for plant growth and development depends on the time of year and day. During the summer period, the temperature of the surrounding space in which the plant is located should vary between 21-25 ° C during the daytime. At night, a temperature of 17-18 ° C is considered favorable for Cattleya. For the winter season, when the plant is at rest, the daytime temperature should be in the range of 16-18°C, and the night temperature should not fall below 12-13°C.

For orchids, there are certain temperature limits. The minimum critical point is a temperature of +5°C, the maximum should not exceed +30°C. The difference between night and day temperatures of more than 5-7 ° C can lead to the death of the plant.

Water is not just a chemical compound of oxygen and hydrogen, it is a necessary substance, without which the vital activity of any organism, including plants, is impossible. Orchids are moisture-loving plants, so for their good growth and development, it is necessary to provide sufficient moisture. To provide orchids with moisture, not only regular watering is suitable, but also spraying.

Depending on the season, the amount of moisture needed by the plant should change. On hot summer days, watering and spraying is carried out often. For irrigation, the cattleya is immersed in a container of water at room temperature for 10-15 minutes. You need to spray orchids at least 2 times a day, carefully, trying not to get on the inflorescences.

In the winter dormant period, when the ambient temperature does not exceed 16-18 ° C, the frequency of irrigation should be minimized, since cool air does not contribute to the absorption of water by the roots. At 10 degrees, it is better not to water the orchid at all (a small supply of water is contained in the pseudobulb), but do not forget to monitor the condition of not only the false bulb, but also the leaves. The frequency of watering also depends not only on the season and temperature, but also on the composition soil.

Cattleya, growing in a substance that includes bark, needs watering every 2, and for some species every 3 days.

With the help of watering, the plant is provided not only with water, but also with top dressing. Intensive growth and flowering are precisely those periods when the plant needs to be fed the most. It is enough to feed the orchid with fertilizer diluted in water once a week (for some species, once every 2 weeks), reducing the recommended concentration.

The type of fertilizer must be selected depending on the phase of plant development. For the growth period following the dormant period, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied predominantly. During the formation of pseudobulbs and active flowering, the plant needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. At rest, it is better not to feed the orchid.

Transfer

The need to transplant a plant can arise for several reasons: an overgrown bush, a damaged substrate, formations in the form of rusty spots on the roots, or an orchid after purchase. A planned transplant should be carried out at least once every 2 years, before the intensive growth phase.

For this procedure, it is necessary to prepare a transparent container with several drainage holes. If the transplant is associated with the growth of the main and aerial roots, then it is better to choose a pot for such a plant 2-4 cm larger than the previous one.

As a primer, you can use both a home-made substrate and a special mixture for orchids bought in a store.

For your own preparation of the substrate, you will need several ingredients. The main component of the substrate for orchids are pieces of pine and spruce bark.. Depending on the type of mixture, the volume of the bark varies between 25-50%. Styrofoam, which, depending on the composition, occupies from 15 to 20% of the volume, is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity. Expanded clay, used as drainage, usually occupies about 15% of the total volume of the substrate. Charcoal, peat, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber and even oak leaves can be used as additional components.

The most common is a mixture of bark (50%), polystyrene foam (20%), peat (10%), expanded clay (15%) and charcoal (5%). For plants set on the south side, soil is more suitable, which includes coconut fiber (15%), bark (45%), sphagnum moss (15%) and oak leaves (15%).

Cattleya transplantation is conditionally divided into 2 stages: preparatory and main. For preparatory phase, in addition to collecting or buying soil, choosing a container, it is necessary to prepare the plant itself, namely, do not water the orchid for 1-2 days before planting.

The main stage of transplantation is carried out in several steps. First of all, carefully release the plant from the pot and remove the old substrate from the roots. Then carefully examine and feel each spine. We cut off dried, rotten, stained roots, and process the cut point with coal, previously ground into powder.

Now you can start laying the ground and planting the plant. Expanded clay and polystyrene are first laid on the bottom of the selected container. Next, you should pour larger pieces of bark and place the plant itself, filling it with smaller pieces of the substrate.

When planting, it is better to move the orchid closer to the wall so that there is room for stem development. As a support for an orchid, you can use different kinds supports.

After all the manipulations carried out, the cattleya is left alone and not watered for 7-10 days.

Reproduction methods

Reproduction of the Cattleya orchid is carried out in only two ways: by cutting off a section of the main root and with the help of seeds. The seed method of reproduction is one of the most time-consuming, lengthy and hardly feasible at home methods for reproducing this beautiful plant. Division using rhizomes is more accessible and the easy way even for beginner gardeners.

best time for cutting off the root is the phase before the formation of new roots. It is customary to combine the planned transplantation and reproduction in order to avoid unnecessary stress for the plant.

The orchid is taken out of the pot and lowered into the prepared container with warm water for several minutes, while inspecting the root system. After removing diseased and dead roots and treating the cut points with charcoal, the plant is left to dry.

The clipping site should have 2-3 pseudobulbs and a few healthy aerial roots.. Using a pre-sterilized knife or secateurs, cut off the selected area and process the cut points. We plant the cut-off baby in the substrate, observing all the rules of transplantation.

Possible problems

Sometimes proper care is not a guarantee of healthy growth and lush flowering of Cattleya, and more recently, a beautiful orchid begins to quickly "waste". There may be several reasons for this.

First of all, these are, of course, diseases, the occurrence of which is due to elementary non-compliance with the rules of care. Black rot, which primarily affects young shoots, can occur due to overheating of the root system, high humidity levels (more than 60%), excessively dense substrate and overfeeding of the orchid with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Gray rot differs from other diseases in the presence of spots with a gray coating on flowers. The appearance of gray rot is possible with high humidity, constant overflow and low ambient temperature.

If all the roots have died, then you can try to restore them.. Resuscitation of the roots, although it will take a lot of time, will give a chance for the restoration of the plant. To do this, the orchid is soaked in water for 2-2.5 hours. The appearance of roots means the end of the soaking process. Roots that have reached 6 cm in length (at least 3 pieces) must be planted in a prepared substrate (bark, moss, charcoal) and growth should be observed.

Cattleya has won the glory of the queen among orchids. However, despite all the advantages, Cattleya is rarely found in the collections of flower growers. And in vain, because for most modern hybrids care is quite simple. In addition, this orchid adapts quite well to room conditions if you give her the right care.

Origin and appearance description

The royal Cattleya, known in Europe and America as a “boutonniere orchid” or “corsage flower” (women love to decorate outfits with amazingly beautiful flowers), is not yet as common in Russia as, for example, Phalaenopsis or. However, the beauty can be increasingly found on sale and in the collections of orchid lovers.

The orchid appeared in Europe in early XIX century. The name of the flower was given by the famous naturalist John Lindley in honor of the lover of tropical exotics William Cattleya, who managed to grow and make the plant bloom in his greenhouse. The orchid was discovered by William Swenson in Brazil in 1817, it was he who delivered the royal flower to the Glasgow Botanical Garden.

The genus Cattleya belongs to the Orchid family and is found naturally in Central and South America, from Costa Rica to Argentina. This is a herbaceous plant, characterized by a sympodial type of growth: that is, in Cattleya, a new shoot develops from a bud located at the base of the previous one.

Botanists described 113 species of flower growing in tropical rainforests. Among the representatives of the Cattleya genus there are both epiphytes (flowers growing on trees) and lithophytes (orchids developing on stones). Cattleyas live in both foothills and lowland forests, but most of them grow on the banks of rivers.

Cattleya orchids are widely known for their large, showy flowers that range from 5 to 20 cm or more. They can be painted in any shade except blue and black. A typical flower has three rather narrow sepals and three wider petals, two of which are similar to each other, and the third is completely different (it is called a lip).

It is the lip that is hallmark Cattleya. The color of this petal contrasts with the shade of the rest. On the lip there are often all kinds of spots, stains. Often it has corrugated or wavy edges.

Each peduncle grows from a pseudobulb. The number of flowers on one peduncle varies: there may be one or two buds, or it may bloom and about ten.

Fleshy pseudobulbs have a slightly flattened shape. One leathery leaf grows from them (a group of single-leaved Cattleyas) or two or three leaf blades (a group of two-leaved Cattleyas).

Large-flowered, hybrid and others - Cattleya orchid species

• This species is native to Venezuela. The orchid is characterized by long pseudobulbs, thickened in the middle, and leathery leaf blades up to 30 cm long. The flowers are very large and incredibly attractive.
• This name has a group of hybrid forms obtained from crossing natural species and varieties of orchids. The flowering of hybrid Cattleyas is impressive, because the plant has large flowers, reaching up to 22 cm in size, while the buds are painted in the most incredible shades (from snow-white to purple).
• A species native to Ecuador, northern Peru and Colombia. Pseudobulbs are cylindrical in shape. Up to 15 flowers bloom on the inflorescence, the size of which varies from 12 to 17 cm. The petals are painted in various shades of purple, thin purple veins with a yellow stroke in the middle are visible on the lip.
• Cattleya bicolor. The size of the buds is about 10 cm. The flowers are usually painted in brownish-greenish and copper shades, the lip is in purple or crimson tones with lighter edges. Pseudobulbs are quite large, in nature they reach an average of 0.5 m.
• cattleya bowringa. This orchid is native to Guatemala and Honduras. The color of the flowers is usually pink-lilac, and the lip has a brighter shade.
• The flowers are large, reach 15–20 cm, painted in various shades - from snow-white to bright pink. The lip has a bright crimson color with a white border.
• The plant is small, its size is 10–20 cm in height. The diameter of the flowers, painted in olive or yellow-green shades, is 10 cm. The lip is snow-white and with a pinkish bloom.
• Cattleya Dawn. The height of the plant reaches 25 cm. The diameter of the flowers is 15 cm. The buds are painted pale yellow, and the lip is crimson with golden streaks.
• . The orchid belongs to the group of univalent Cattleyas. Its pseudobulbs reach a length of 15 cm. The petals are pink-lilac, and the lip has a crimson hue with orange-yellow spots and a light border around the edge.
• The plant is one of the smallest epiphytic Cattleya native to Brazil. The orchid has short two-leaved pseudobulbs, which are less than 1 cm thick. The flower has a very unusual color. Its petals and sepals take on an olive hue with many small dark purple specks. The lip is painted in bright pink with raspberry stains.
• Cattleya is lippy. This is the very first species of Cattleya discovered in Brazil. The plant has pseudobulbs about 20 cm long, covered with grayish scales. The flowers are very large, up to 20 cm in diameter. They are painted in different shades - from pink to lilac - and have wavy edges. The lip acquires a bright violet-purple color with a spot of a rich yellow tint in the throat.
• The species, whose homeland is Southern Brazil, is very often used in breeding. Pseudobulbs are thin, 2–3 leaf blades grow from them. The flowers are large, from 12 to 15 cm in diameter, painted in delicate shades of pink and lilac.

Photo gallery: Variety of varieties

The homeland of Cattleya grandiflora is Venezuela. Petals of Cattleya Percival are pink-lilac, and the lip has a crimson hue with orange-yellow spots. Homeland of Cattleya intermediate - Southern Brazil Cattleya hybrid - a group of hybrid forms obtained from crossing different types Cattleya lipped - the very first species found in Brazil The flowers of Cattleya Triana are large, reach 15–20 cm The homeland of Cattleya large is Ecuador, northern Peru and Colombia The smallest species of the Cattleya genus Cattleya Forbeza is a small plant, its size is only 10– 20 cm high

Table: Temperature, lighting, humidity - necessary conditions

Season	Lighting	Humidity	Temperature
Spring Summer	The orchid is very photophilous. Cattleya requires direct sunlight to bloom. The ideal option would be a location on a south-facing window. In summer, it is necessary to shade the plant from the scorching sun.	Humidity should be fairly high, although modern varieties can survive in dry conditions. Cattleyas like to stand in a pan of water where they put their roots. In the heat, you can spray both the substrate and the plants twice a day, thereby increasing the humidity.	Not higher than 35 °C during the day and 16–22 °C at night
Autumn winter	Light space required. A window facing East or West is perfect. If the orchid has a dormant period, then the plant does not need to be additionally illuminated. Varieties that bloom in winter and early spring must be illuminated with fluorescent lamps.	Additional spraying of Cattleya is not necessary. If the air is too dry, once a month the flower can have a warm shower.	16–18 °C during the day and not lower than 12 °C at night

The nuances of planting and transplanting Cattleya

Cattleya does not tolerate transplanting and transshipment very well, so the procedure is necessary only in exceptional cases. For example, if the pot has become too small, the flower needs to be reanimated or its roots have rotted.

Soil for royal orchids

As a rule, Cattleya in nature are epiphytic plants living on trees. Therefore, the optimal composition of the substrate for them will be bark and sphagnum moss. The ingredients must be crushed, and the bark must also be soaked for 2-3 days (this is done so that it does not pass water very quickly). It is recommended to add foam balls and perlite to the mixture, which will retain moisture. You can also purchase ready-made substrate for orchids.

For the preparation of the substrate, it is preferable to choose the bark of conifers.

Choosing a pot

Flower growers recommend choosing a translucent plastic container for Cattleya that does not absorb light. Such dishes are very convenient, it allows you to monitor the condition of the roots and moisten the flower in time, preventing the substrate from drying out or excessive dampness.

Process algorithm

Cattleya in the florarium

Varieties of miniature Cattleya species, such as Golden Boy, Kewpie, Chien Ya Ocean and other mini-hybrids, the size of which does not exceed 10 cm, grow well in glass gardens or, as they are also called, florariums.

1. Prepare the florarium. It can be a special design, an aquarium, a glass vase or an ordinary jar.
2. Put a layer of stones on the bottom.
3. Then put the bark (pieces about two centimeters in size).
4. Place a thin layer of wet sphagnum moss. Put a mini Cattleya on it and secure it with improvised means (for example, thin sticks).
5. Complete the composition with other tropical plants suitable for growing in a florarium. It can be, for example, Fittonia.
6. Decorate the ground with stones or shells.

Caring for Cattleya in the florarium consists in moistening from a spray gun and periodic foliar top dressing with fertilizers for orchids (the concentration of the solution should be half that indicated on the package).

Video: How to transplant a flower?

Secrets of care and cultivation features

How to water and feed?

It is necessary to water and fertilize regularly so that the orchid pleases with flowering. Moisten the plant from above when the bark in the container dries out. For a while, it is worth leaving the liquid in the pan so that the flower gets enough to drink.

Another way to water Cattleya is to submerge the plant pot in water. Two or three times a week, the container is lowered into a warm liquid and held until the soil is completely saturated with moisture.

Top dressing is recommended only during the development of pseudobulbs, stopping it is a signal to refuse to fertilize. Top dressing must be resumed during the growth of the peduncle. When the orchid blooms, it will not need additional nutrients, so fertilization should be stopped.

It is convenient to feed the plant with special complex fertilizers for orchids. They need to be diluted according to the instructions and added to the substrate an hour after watering. Fertilization mode - once every two weeks.

Cattleyas also respond very well to foliar feeding. For this purpose, a solution is prepared (its concentration should be half that indicated in the instructions), with which the leaf plates are wiped. This procedure can be carried out once a week during the period of active growth.

An effective remedy is an infusion of fir twigs. The orchid likes this nutrient liquid. Grind the needles and pour boiling water over it (ratio - 1: 3). Wrap the dishes in a towel or blanket and leave for 4 hours. After that, strain and spray the orchid leaves with the resulting infusion.

How to make Cattleya bloom?

One of the main conditions for flowering is the sun, without direct sunlight, the buds may not appear. Therefore, when Cattleya is about to begin to bloom, but the peduncle does not appear in any way, pay attention to the conditions of the plant. If your Cattleya blooms in the summer, take the flower out to the balcony and place it in direct sunlight. In winter, start lighting up the orchid with fluorescent lamps.

The second condition is proper watering and fertilizing. The substrate dries out very quickly, so keep an eye on its condition and moisten it in a timely manner.

The third important condition, without which flowering will not occur, is the observance of temperature differences day and night. If Cattleya is in a room or on a glazed loggia, where the temperature is approximately the same at different times of the day, just open the window or window. The difference should be about five degrees.

The flowering period varies from species to species. There are orchids that bloom in spring or summer, and there are hybrids that bloom in autumn or winter. Therefore, when buying a plant, ask the seller when your Cattleya blooms.

What to do during the dormant period of the plant?

The dormant period of the royal orchid comes after the end of flowering. At this time, the flower rests and accumulates strength. The interval of "sleep" can occur in different seasons, but most often this happens in the winter.

After flowering is over, move the Cattleya container to a cool spot with diffused light, an east-facing window is ideal. Place the pot closer to the window glass and separate the plant from the warm room with a screen.

It is impossible to feed Cattleya during the dormant period. Watering should be reduced to once every two weeks. The substrate should be slightly damp, make sure that the pseudobulbs do not wrinkle or dry out.

Table: Why do problems arise with an orchid and how to solve them?

Problem	Possible reason	How to fix the situation?
Rotten roots	Waterlogging	Remove the orchid from the pot, clean the roots of the substrate and cut off any rotten parts. Place the plant on a windowsill for a day so that all cuts dry. Then make a solution of the Zircon preparation according to the instructions and put the orchid in it for 2-3 hours. Plant the plant in a fresh substrate, but do not water. If there are few roots and the flower does not hold well in the container, tie it.
Pigment spots appeared on the back of the leaf blades and on the pseudobulbs	Sunburn	Move the flower to another place with good lighting, but without scorching sunlight on it.
Softened pseudobulbs, blackened leaves	root rot	Remove the plant from the substrate and carefully inspect the rhizomes (rhizomes). Cut off the damaged parts to a healthy tissue, sprinkle the cut with Fundazol and fill it with melted paraffin.

Video: How to grow Cattleya?

Table: Mosaic virus, spider mite and so on - diseases and pests

Diseases and pests	Signs of defeat	Reason for the appearance	Treatment and prevention measures
mosaic virus	Leaves and flowers are deformed, variegation appears.	Fungal disease that manifests itself in waterlogged substrate	The sick Cattleya must be destroyed.
Chlorosis	Yellow stains appear on the leaves.	iron deficiency	Transplant the orchid into a fresh substrate and foliar, spraying the leaves with a fertilizer solution. When watering, use only soft and settled water, because due to the hard liquid, the soil is saline, an excess of calcium salts does not allow iron to be absorbed.
root rot	Leaves and shoots begin to turn black. Mold is found on the root collar.	Waterlogging of the substrate	A sick flower should be destroyed or try to reanimate. As a preventative measure, water the plant properly. Watering should be moderate, do not allow stagnant moisture.
spider mite	On leaf blades (mainly on the underside) small white dots and a thin cobweb are visible. The leaf turns pale, acquires a gray tint, and later becomes brown.	Dry indoor air	Spray the plant with Fitoverm, Aktofit or Vermitek (according to instructions). Maintain high humidity.
Shield aphid (shchitovka)	Brown tubercles appear on leaf blades and pseudobulbs of Cattleya. Leaves become paler.	Insufficient humidity in the room	You can get rid of the scale insects by mechanically processing the orchid. Scrape off the bumps with a stick or wire and clean all parts of the plant with a swab dipped in soapy water. After processing, inspect the Cattleya again and remove the remaining insects.

Plant resuscitation: how to grow roots?

With root rot, from old age or due to improper care, Cattleya often remains without roots, in which case urgent resuscitation of the plant is necessary. In such a difficult period for the orchid, you need to create all the conditions for it to grow a new root system.

soaking in water

by the most in a simple way Resuscitation of an orchid is soaking Cattleya in water. The procedure must be carried out daily in the morning.

1. Place the orchid in a vessel and pour water so that only the rhizome is in it.
2. Leave for 1-2 hours, and then drain the liquid. The duration of such resuscitation can vary from one month to a year.
3. After new roots grow up to 5 cm, transplant the orchid into a pot with a substrate of bark and sphagnum moss.

Room in a greenhouse

Orchid propagation

Absolutely all species and hybrids of Cattleya reproduce perfectly by division. In this way, you can not only get new specimens, but also rejuvenate the orchid. Another method of divorcing Cattleya is by children (stem offspring).

division

1. If Cattleya has six or more developed pseudobulbs, then carefully divide its rhizome with a clean knife into two approximately equal parts. The young specimen will continue to grow, and a new bud will appear on the old part, from which a pseudobulb will begin to develop upwards, and roots downwards.
2. Fix the resulting parts in the substrate by any means at hand.
3. When the roots grow back and are fixed in the soil, remove the support and take care of Cattleya as you would a healthy plant.

babes

Lateral shoots or babies are small new plants formed on the shoots of an orchid. As a rule, they appear if the room temperature and humidity are very high.

1. When shoots appear, spray Cattleya as often as possible so that the children grow up and give roots.
2. When the size of the roots reaches five centimeters, separate the children from the mother plant with a knife.
3. Treat the slices with crushed activated charcoal.
4. Plant stem offspring in separate pots.

Cattleya belongs to the Orchid family and is a true standard of beauty. If you want to grow such a flower at home or in the office, you need to work hard, as it is a little whimsical.

Description of the cattleya orchid

The cattleya orchid is a perennial plant and its genus includes approximately 187 various forms and hybrids (as of 2009). It is considered a national symbol of Colombia and Venezuela. It is especially common in the American tropics. Many varieties require different growing conditions. Some species (purple) live only in moisture, others (guttata) - under the bright rays of the sun.

The petals of the flower differ in aroma (they have the smell of jasmine, sometimes lily of the valley) and a large variety of colors (from delicate shades to bright ones).

The main difference from other orchids is the middle petal, which has a dissimilarity in color from the rest. The culture has rather large flowers, one peduncle cannot have more than 5 inflorescences.

The leaves are oval in shape and grow from an aerial tuber (an orchid organ that buries nutrients and water). A new sprout is born at the base of the old one, which subsequently dries up and dies. The root system is represented by large but fragile roots protruding outwards.

Cattleya begins to bloom in spring or autumn, depending on the type of flower.

Popular types

At home, these varieties of Cattleya are most readily grown.

Schroeder. This specimen has large flowers and the most delicate color (the central petal is yellow, the rest are pale pinkish). This species has the longest flowering, about six weeks;

Mix(mix). Appeared due to the crossing of several species. The main petal of mixed cattleyas is not like the rest (very different in color). Such orchids are found in various colors, but the lip is always with a reddish tint, its edge is formed by a wavy edge;

Imperials. This type can be found quite often, as it grows faster than the others, abundantly blooms buds. It has only a white color and a wavy border;

Dinard. This cattleya blooms in spring and autumn, its color is pale blue or purple. The lip of the orchid is bright purple, with a yellowish neck. It differs from all other varieties by a pronounced smell;

maxima. Very lush variety, the leaves have a plate-like appearance. The most common colors are purple and pale pink. The petals have an original long shape, towards the end they wrap back;

Triana. It has a color that distinguishes it from the rest: the color of the petals in one inflorescence can be from snow-white to purple. On the central petal there is a blot of yellow or orange color. It is the progenitor of many hybrids.

Conditions and care

Lighting and location

Tropical dwellers love warm weather, and therefore Cattleya orchids grow best on western, southern, and southeastern window sills. In warm, dry weather, an orchid pot can be placed on a veranda or balcony. It is worth avoiding direct daytime sun rays on young shoots, adult flowers can be under the rays for a couple of hours. Ideal sunlight - early in the morning and in the afternoon. Some hybrids are shade-loving and do not need 12 hours of sun exposure.

To understand if the Cattleya has enough light, you need to look at its leaves. If they have a dark color - the plant needs more lighting, if the leaves have brightened and begun to turn yellow, burn out - it is recommended to remove the flower in the shade. In the cold season, Cattleya can be illuminated with special lamps, only in this case it will bloom in the spring.

Temperature and humidity

The temperature where the plant pot is located should be controlled, it should not be below five and rise above 40 C. In warm weather, when it is activated accelerated growth cattleya, the temperature in the room should fluctuate around 19-30 C. The plant should be protected from drafts. The recommended temperature for orchid sleep is 10-17 C.

Orchid buds begin to form due to temperature fluctuations during the day and at night. If it is warm outside at night, it is necessary to leave the window open so that temperature fluctuations stimulate the formation of future buds.

Moisture levels must be monitored carefully. kottley loves dampness, but in a reasonable amount (about 60%). To maintain water balance, two methods have been developed:

• spray water near the plant (it should not fall on the leaves and only distilled water should be used);
• placing moss in a pallet or on top of the ground.

Soil and pot for growing

Special soil for orchids, sold in stores, is also suitable for Cattleya. If it is impossible to buy land, there is an option to make it yourself. To do this, you need to mix pine bark, peat and charcoal (the last two components should be in equal proportions, the bark should be half as much). Some cattleyas are suitable for soil consisting entirely of pine bark. Drainage must be placed at the bottom. As a drainage can serve:

• stones;
• large bark;
• Styrofoam
• plastic stoppers.

From above, the soil can be covered with a thick layer of moss or bark.

Cattleya can be planted in any pot, but you need to know a couple of subtleties. When planting a plant in a ceramic pot, it is likely that the roots will grow into ceramics and be injured during further transplantation. It is best to plant a flower in a plastic transparent pot. Thus, it will be possible not only to control the rhizome during transplantation, but also to monitor their condition, moisture level.

Size of the pot: it should fit the size of the roots. If the root system is still not sufficiently developed, it is not necessary to plant an orchid in a vessel "for growth". This will negatively affect flowering and further development plants.

Planting and transplanting plants

Cattleya transplantation is a simple process, but it needs special attention. It is important not to harm the root system. Often, the roots grow into the pot, and when they try to transplant, they break. An orchid should be transplanted after the start of active growth (this can be judged by the appearance of new primordia 3-5 centimeters long). It is necessary to transplant the plant when the soil is compacted or oxidized, as well as if the pot has become small for the root system.

Description of the procedure:

• at the bottom of the vessel where the plant is transplanted, drainage material should always be laid, and the substrate on top;
• first you need to water the cattleya so that it can be easily removed from the last pot, then carefully pull out the orchid and shake off the earth remaining on the root system;
• plant a cattleya flower in a pot and pour soil without tamping;
• for a week, you need to monitor the health of the plant, limit exposure to sunlight and do not water.

Watering

The frequency of watering varies depending on the time of year and climate. If the climate is dry (southern) and the temperature is high, Cattleya should be watered once a day. If the climate is temperate, then watering the flower once every seven days will be enough. Watering should be reduced after the first flowers appear.

During the dormant period, the plant almost does not need additional water and it can be watered only once every 2-3 weeks. Water for irrigation should be soft.

In summer, a pot with an orchid is placed for an hour in a container of water. This procedure provides soil moisture, which contributes to the development of rhizomes.

At low temperatures, it is worth reducing the humidity, it can provoke root rot. For the same reason, it is recommended to completely dry the soil once a week.

The ingress of water on the leaves is strictly undesirable. If water still gets in, it is necessary to wipe the flower dry. Moisture should not fall on young sprouts, this can lead to decay.

top dressing

As a top dressing, it is recommended to use only specially designed solutions and substances for orchids (they can be bought at flower shops). Cattleya should be fertilized only during flowering and growth. At various stages of growth, the plant is fertilized with special means:

• after "hibernation" a mixture containing nitrogen is added to the water for irrigation. This helps the plant to quickly move away from rest and begin the growth stage;
• during flowering, potassium should be included in the top dressing.

The solution with fertilizer is poured every 1-2 weeks into the water for irrigation.

blooming cattleya

First of all, it is worth noting that not all cattleyas can bloom, only quite mature ones. It is safe to say that the plant will bloom if:

The flower is in the house and has already bloomed;

The orchid was purchased blooming or had faded buds and has living roots.

If the cattleya consists of two adult aerial tubers that do not have live roots, then flowering is not activated soon, only after the formation of a new joint pseudobulb. The more bulbs, the faster and more colorful the orchid will bloom.

If the adult cattleya has reached its peak and is ready to bloom, the following conditions must be met:

• abundant sunlight: from the stage of active growth until the first buds appear. The plant must be kept under moderate direct rays for at least a few hours a day;
• timely watering and top dressing. For an orchid to bloom, it needs to grow. To do this, it is necessary to ensure systematic feeding;
• constant temperature difference, a difference of 5-7 degrees in the morning and evening;
• it is necessary to properly care for the orchid during "hibernation".

rest period

When the cottle is at rest, all development processes stop, the plant begins to accumulate useful substances for the upcoming active season. Rest lasts from autumn until the onset of heat.

If the cattleya refuses to rest and begins to grow in the cold season, this process must be slowed down. To stop the growth of the plant, it is necessary to reduce the temperature and stop watering abundantly. In this case, the plant will adjust and enter the rest mode.

Cattleya does not require special care either during the rest season or on active days. It is only necessary to systematically water, replant, fertilize the plant, monitor the humidity and the general condition of the flower.

reproduction

Breeding cattleya can be done in the spring, when the orchid has completely faded. This procedure can be performed no more than 1-2 times in five years, reproduction occurs due to the division of the bush and rhizome.

Reproduction of Cattleya occurs as follows:

• the plant is taken out of the pot and the root system is immersed in water for a few minutes. (Instead, the flower can be watered abundantly 2-3 hours before the breeding procedure). Now the roots can be untangled and cause them a minimum of harm;
• it is necessary to remove all rotten and diseased roots that remain to dry;
• each branch of cattleya should have as many pseudobulbs as possible (minimum 3) with live buds;
• the divided plant is planted in a pot according to the rules of transplantation.

If the rhizome was damaged and the cauldron orchid was left without roots, it can be restored.

1. Roots can grow from new bulbs. To do this, you need to stick two sticks into the ground and tie an orchid to them, cover with a bag. Remove the bag once a day for half an hour. You can't spray!
2. Stop watering the orchid. In search of moisture, the cattleya will begin to dry out and grow new roots.

Diseases and pests

Rot (black). Causes of the disease - finding Cattleya in adverse conditions or pest infestation. To cure an orchid, it is necessary to cut off the affected leaves, wipe the leaves with Bordeaux liquid, transplant into a new soil and pot.

Rot (grey). The causative agent of the disease is improper care. Manifested with the help of plaque and dark spots. Fungicides do well with this scourge. The diseased parts of the cattleya must be cut off, and then sprayed on the plant.

Bacterial spotting. The main reason for the appearance is a violation of the rules of irrigation. The leaves turn yellow and brown spots form on them, these parts are cut off, and the sections are treated with iodine solution or Bordeaux mixture.

The herbaceous plant Cattleya (Cattleya) is a perennial, it belongs to the Orchid family and is related to the genus Laelia. The Cattleya genus unites about 40 species, among which there are both lithophytes (plants that grow on stones) and epiphytes (growing on other plants).

This plant is one of the most spectacular orchids. It appeared on the territory of Europe in the nineteenth century and almost immediately fell in love with a huge number of flower growers. Cattleya was named after William Catley, who was a plant importer and gardener who was able to grow this orchid in his own greenhouse. This plant differs from other orchids in that it has a lip of a very unusual shape, while it and the flower itself are painted in contrasting colors. A blooming orchid looks just great, it happens that about 10 flowers bloom on an adult bush. They can be painted in a variety of shades: from dark purple (almost black) to snowy white. The flowers smell just amazing. They may have the smell of lily of the valley or lily, and some species and varieties have an excellent, incomparable aroma.

1. Bloom. The Cattleya plant is a flowering plant.
2. illumination. The flower needs direct sunlight before noon and after 4 pm. In the period from May to August, the orchid is placed on the southern windowsill (shaded from noon), and from August to May - on the window of the southwestern or eastern orientation.
3. Temperature regime. Grows well at room temperature. When preparing a bush for flowering, a difference between night and day temperatures of 5-7 degrees is needed.
4. . During the growing season, the orchid is watered as the substrate in the pot dries out. Do not allow drops of water to fall on the bush. During the dormant period, watering should be more rare, while switching to moistening the surface of the substrate from the spray gun. As soon as the peduncle appears, watering should be resumed.
5. Air humidity. The flower is systematically moistened from the sprayer and from time to time they give him a warm shower.
6. Fertilizer. It is necessary to feed the cattleya during the growth of the pseudobulb, after which the plant is stopped fertilizing. Reapplying fertilizer to the substrate begins after the appearance of the peduncle. Use complex mineral fertilizer for orchids.
7. rest period. As a rule, in autumn or winter, after the bush has faded. During this period, it is not fed, but instead of watering, the surface of the substrate is sprayed. The flower needs bright light, while the daylight hours should be long (it is recommended to install additional artificial lighting).
8. Transfer. Most often, the bush is transplanted if the soil mixture in the pot turns sour and cakes. A flower transplant is extremely poorly tolerated.
9. reproduction. Shoots and division of the bush.
10. Harmful insects. Aphids, spider mites, scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies.
11. Diseases. Gray rot, bacterial spot, black rot and powdery mildew.

If you decide to decorate your house with cattleya, then you need to consider what it requires good care and special growing conditions. Many flower growers complain that this orchid does not bloom for them, while among them there are both beginners and those who have been growing flowers for more than a year. This is due to the fact that flowers appear only on an adult, healthy and strong bush, which has enough strength to bloom. If you wish, you can check whether it is worth waiting for your orchid to start blooming in the near future. The bush will bloom in the current season if:

• you have purchased a whole bush with live roots, which already has flowers;
• a bush or delenki has at least four bulbs and living roots, while there must be some trace of the fact that there were already flowers on the plant.

In other cases, Cattleya may or may not bloom in the current season. In order for a flower to develop and grow within the normal range, you need to pay attention to 4 conditions:

• direct sunlight is required;
• it is important to properly feed and water it;
• when preparing a bush for flowering, be sure to provide it with a difference in night and day temperatures within 5–7 degrees;
• during the dormant period, the plant needs to provide optimal conditions.

When growing cattleya, you need to remember that it needs strict adherence to the agrotechnical rules of the culture.

illumination

The plant needs a lot of bright light, so it is recommended to place it on an east or southwest window. The south window is also suitable, while in the very heat the flower must be shaded. You can understand that he has enough light by the color of the foliage: the yellowish color of the leaves indicates excessively intense lighting, and if they are dark green, this means they do not have enough light. Under normal lighting, the color of the foliage should be just green.

Temperature regime

Such an orchid grows normally and develops under normal room temperature. During the preparation of the plant for flowering, ensure a difference between moderate and daytime warm temperatures of 5–7 degrees (at this time of the year, such differences are observed in natural conditions).

Air humidity

Cattleya is undemanding to the level of humidity. However, in the spring and summer, it is recommended to put her pot on a tray filled with water, into which she will lower her air roots.

Water the flower as the substrate in the pot dries out, while making sure that the liquid does not fall on the surface of the foliage. With the onset of a dormant period, watering is first gradually reduced, and then instead of it, the surface of the substrate in the container is moistened from a spray bottle. After the peduncle begins to grow, the flower again begins to be regularly watered.

On hot days, the bush itself and the surface of the substrate can be moistened with a spray gun, for this, distilled, rain or well-settled water is used. This procedure will help not only increase the level of humidity, but also reduce the temperature. It is also recommended to give the flower a warm shower once every 30 days, and in order to clean the substrate in a pot, it is spilled with ordinary clean water.

When watering a bush in the autumn-winter period, be extremely careful. If suddenly water gets on the aerial part of the bush, then gently wipe this place dry, otherwise dark spots may form on the flower. If the liquid gets into the center of growth, then this will lead to the development of rot on the roots and the flower will die.

Such an orchid reacts extremely negatively to a transplant, but still sometimes you have to carry out this procedure. Even if it is very carefully transferred to a new container, it will still take a very long time to recover.

As a rule, a flower has to be transplanted when the substrate becomes unusable, or rather, it oxidizes and becomes very compacted. In this case, after the young shoots have reached a length of 20–30 mm, a bush is transplanted. But before you start transplanting Cattleya, consider whether you will share it. Any container can be used for planting, but most often flower growers choose translucent plastic pots that do not absorb light. However, the orchid grows best in a clay pot that is not glazed. The composition of a suitable substrate should include fine and medium fractions of tree bark and sphagnum. Before transplanting, the bark is poured with water for 2 days. After that, the liquid is drained, and the bark is washed with running water.

At the bottom of the planting tank, make a 20 mm thick drainage layer, which should consist of expanded clay or pebbles. It is covered with pieces of foam plastic and bark of a medium fraction, after that place a flower in a container and sprinkle its roots with a smaller bark. If the room where the flower will stand is not very high humidity, then a small amount of perlite should be poured into the substrate, which absorbs moisture and retains it.

top dressing

It is necessary to feed the flower during the active growth of pseudobulbs. After they stop growing, fertilizing the substrate is stopped. Again, the bush begins to be fed when it has a peduncle, and after the start of flowering, feeding is stopped again. A suitable fertilizer should contain potassium and phosphorus, while using the lowest dosage indicated on the package.

Cattleya is propagated by dividing the bush, which is carried out in conjunction with transplanting the plant into a fresh substrate (1 time in 3 or 4 years). It is best to divide the flower shortly before the appearance of young roots.

First of all, remove the bush from the container, while keeping in mind that this is quite difficult to do. In the event that the cattleya grows in a plastic pot, then first remember and squeeze it from the sides, and then try to remove the plant. And if the pot is made of clay, then very carefully insert a knife between the substrate and the pot and move the bush with it to pull the roots out of the container.

Dip the orchid roots into a basin and fill it with water. After about 30 min. the substrate should get wet, then try to gently stir and disassemble the roots, keep in mind that as a result of your actions they should not be injured. It is recommended to disassemble the roots directly in the water, while as it gets dirty, it must be replaced with a clean one. After the roots are almost completely cleared of the substrate, they need to be examined and cut out all injured, dead, dry and rotten areas. In the event that young sprouts already have rotten roots, then this indicates that watering is too plentiful. Sprinkle the cuts with cinnamon or charcoal powder; you cannot use antiseptics containing alcohol for this. After such a treatment, the root system must be dried very well in heat.

Only when the root system dries out, you can begin to divide the bush. Please note that each division must have a live kidney and at least three pseudobulbs, as well as live roots. To separate the plant, a very sharp instrument pre-disinfected with alcohol or fire is used. If it is dirty, then this can cause infection of the bush with a bacterial or viral disease. Sprinkle all cuts with cinnamon or charcoal powder. Plant the delenki in separate pots in the same way as the bush itself when transplanting (see above).

Cattleya varieties with photos and names

Cattleya is a very showy plant that can decorate any room. At the same time, both those varieties and species that were born thanks to breeders and natural ones are very beautiful. To date, there are more than 1 thousand different varieties of Cattleya, below will be described those of them that are most popular with flower growers:

Cattleya bicolor (Cattleya bicolor)

The height of the plant varies from 0.3 to 0.6 m, while the diameter of the flowers reaches about 10 centimeters. The flowers are painted in a reddish-brown color, the lip is purple with a more light shade. Flowering is observed in autumn and winter.

Bowringa Cattleya (Cattleya bowringiana)

The bush has a height of about 0.7 m, and the flower in diameter reaches up to 70 mm. It is painted in a purple-pink hue, there is a yellow speck on the purple lip. Blooms in autumn and winter.

Cattleya triana (Cattleya trianaei)

The height of the bush is about 0.5 m, and the diameter of the flower is about 20 centimeters. The flowers are painted in a pinkish-white shade, while the rich crimson lip has a white border. Flowering begins in winter or spring.

Cattleya Forbes (Cattleya forbesii)

This miniature plant reaches a height of only 10 to 20 centimeters. Olive flowers have a diameter of about 10 centimeters, the lip is white with a pinkish bloom. Blooms in summer-autumn.

The orchid is one of the most exotic flowering houseplants. At the same time, many gardeners claim that it is the Cattleya orchid that is the most beautiful and easy to care for.

Family: Orchidaceae (Orchids).

Homeland: Central and South America, Caribbean.

Reproduction: when transplanted by the department of pseudotubers.

The size: medium and large.

Description of plants of the genus Cattleya

According to various sources, the following is given short description cattleya orchids.

False bulbs (pseudobulbs) with 2-3 internodes holding 1-2 leaves. Young shoots appear at the bases of last year's shoots, which leads to the growth of the culture in width.

Inflorescence: apical, with 1 flower, or racemose, emerges from the axil of the leaf, covered with a "sheath" of integumentary leaves.

Includes several genera, incl. and the cattleya orchid, which got its name in honor of the Englishman W. Cattley. In the wild, these are plants that grow on their own or are permanently attached to tree trunks, as well as adapted to life on rocks and stones.

At the same time, you can meet representatives of Orchids of this genus in countries such as Argentina, Bolivia, Paraguay. The culture can grow both at an altitude equal to sea level (violet cattleya is found in the Amazon basin), and on three-meter rocks (bicolor cattleya grows in the Brazilian mountains).

Learning how a Cattleya orchid looks like can be started from the stem. It is sympodial in a plant, a shortened succulent, having the appearance of a pseudobulb in the form of a cylinder, spindle or ball. It has several growth points, but as it develops, only a single main process remains, the rest die off. In a false bulb, 1 or 2 leaves are formed, having a narrowed oblong shape. The leaves are compacted, fleshy or leathery, do not bend with growth.

Depending on how many leaves a plant has, cattleyas are distinguished:

• Single leaf.
• Double leaf.

The first orchids - with fleshy, spindle-shaped, flattened pseudobulbs, from which 1 leaf is released. The second - with long false bulbs in the form of a cylinder, from which 2 or more leaves grow.

All pseudobulbs are connected by a root system. A plant of the genus Cattleya has a creeping aerial rhizome, adapted to life in the mountains or on trees. It can be on the surface or go deep into the ground.

Thanks to the numerous roots, the culture receives nutrition and the necessary moisture from the air (due to the covering with a velomen, i.e. hygroscopic tissue) and the earth. The rhizome of the plant is designed so that its old processes periodically dry out, and new ones grow to replace them.

A culture can bloom from a decade to a month (depending on the species). At the same time, there are varieties that bloom in spring and winter.

Cattleya is similar in color to other members of the Orchid family: There are 3 petals and 3 sepals. It also has a characteristic "lip" - the middle petal, which takes the form of a tube or funnel, has a brighter shade and a beautiful fringed edge. In the wild, such a lip functions as a kind of seat for insects and hummingbirds, which act as flower pollinators.

The diameter of the corolla varies in different varieties from a couple of millimeters to a quarter of a meter, and the colors are pinkish, whitish, lilac and crimson. Usually there are at least 4 false bulbs on 1 plant, on which flowers bloom in succession. In this case, the flower lives from 20 days to a month.

Take a look at the photo, what beautiful cattleya flowers are depicted on them:

A distinctive feature of the Cattleya flower is also a thick smell, in some cases reminiscent of the aroma of a lily of the valley or lily. Such cut flowers do not fade for a long time, even if there is no access to water. Thanks to this property, in the 19th and 20th centuries, ladies adorned themselves with them at social events.

Types, varieties and hybrids of the Cattleya room orchid: photos, names and descriptions of plants

Most species of the wild-growing Cattleya orchid are distributed on the eastern slopes of the Central Cordillera, as well as in the valley of the rivers Cauca, Magdalena, Los Llanes de Saint Juan. To date, more than 65 plant species are known, growing in Mexico, in Central and South America, as well as in the Antilles.

Representatives of the Cattleya orchid are:

• Cattleya bowringiana.
• Cattleya bicolor.
• Cattleya mossiae.
• Cattleya trianae.
• Cattleya forbesii.
• Cattleya labiata and many other types.

Take a look, below are photos describing the named types of Cattleya:

Cattleya bowringiana - its false bulb can be up to 76 cm. Narrow oblong-ellipsoid leaves are usually 2 or 3. The flowers themselves have a diameter of 5 - 7 cm, while their color is usually pinkish-lavender, purple. The lip of the orchid is purple with a yellowish spot. It pleases with its color in the autumn-winter period.

Cattleya bicolor - one of the first species of Cattleya orchid, included in the classification since 1836. It can reach a height of more than half a meter, and its flower can be about 5 cm in radius. The plant blooms in autumn and winter, the color can be brownish-green, orange-brown, with a purple lip , which has brighter edges.

Cattleya mossiae - blooms in spring, capturing Easter holidays. From here came the second name of the flower - Easter Cattleya. It grows in Venezuela, the size of the flower is about 15 - 18 cm. Its color can vary from pale pink to lilac (sometimes white). The color of the lip is yellowish with a purple well-defined vein, its edge is fringed.

Cattleya trianaei - grows up to half a meter, and its flower can have a diameter of 15 to 20 cm. Its color is pale pink with a bright crimson triple lip with a whitish border. In the middle, the lip has a golden or yellowish tint. The plant blooms in winter and spring.

Cattleya forbesii refers to mini orchids. Its height does not exceed 10 - 20 cm. At the same time, olive-greenish, yellow-greenish or yellow-brown flowers with a whitish lip with a pinkish coating usually have a size of about 10 cm and delight with flowering in the summer-autumn period. This species was discovered in 1860.

Cattleya labiata - living on a tree culture, with large spindle-shaped univalent false bulbs. Their height is no more than 25 cm, a flower with a radius of about 7.5 cm. The color of the petals is pinkish or lilac, the lip is the same color, but with a large raspberry-colored spot in front, a pale yellow spot with scarlet veins in the throat and a pale pink edge with fringe.

The most famous intergeneric forms bred by selection are brassocattleya, leliocattleya, sophroleliocattleya.

All of them are usually combined under one name - Cattleya hybrida.

In most cases, breeders crossed Cattleya labiata and its forms and varieties, resulting in very beautiful varieties of the Cattleya plant.

For beginner gardeners, hybrids of cattleya (Cattleya) and lelia (Laelia), the so-called leliocattles (Laeliocattleya), are especially good from orchids in room culture. The point is that everything hybrid varieties not very demanding in care, but at the same time their appearance remains as attractive as in natural orchid species.

Below are photos with a short description and names of several Cattleya hybrids:

Cattleya Venosa - a hybrid resulting from the combination of the species Cattleya forbesii and Cattleya harrisoniana, which was originally identified in Brazil. Great for home growing, because. does not take up much space, but at the same time gives a lot of flowers. The shape and color of the sepals is similar to Cattleya forbesii, while in addition to greenish-brownish hues, there is also pinkish-brown.

Cattleya Earl Imperials - a fairly common plant obtained as a result of the combination of Cattleya trianaei, Cattleya qaskelliana and Cattleya mossiae. It is distinguished from others by a whitish flower with curly edges on the petals and lip. She's just great.

Cattleya will be interesting for lovers of indoor flowering plants. Margaret Degenhardt "Satur" giving color twice a year. Thus, its bright crimson sepals can be admired more often.

Perfect for growing indoors Cattleya Luteous Forb , which has a small enough size and can adapt to home life. Its olive flowers with a golden lip adorned with a white fringe border delight their owners twice a year.

After crossing natural species, more than 100 varieties of Cattleya appeared, selectively presented in the photo below:

Agree, these are the most beautiful flowering plants. They amaze with their diversity, have a heady aroma and at the same time please their hostesses for a very long time.

Of course, this is only a very small fraction of all possible orchid hybrid varieties, but even they show how multifaceted and beautiful this flower is. Therefore, it is important to learn how to properly care for it.

Why won't Cattleya bloom?

Sometimes it happens that Cattleya grows at home, but does not bloom at the same time. Why does this happen?

The fact is that only adult culture flourishes. If an already blooming orchid was bought as a completely holistic shrub with living roots, and it also has at least 4 false bulbs (this is an important condition for flowering), then we can expect that a new pet will please the eye with its flower already this year. But even under such favorable conditions, it is necessary to adhere to certain principles for caring for a Cattleya orchid at home:

• Proper coverage of culture is essential.
• Methodical watering and fertilizing plants.
• Maintaining optimal temperature conditions.
• Proper care of the orchid during the dormant period.

The named generalized rules in more detail to achieve its flowering will be discussed below.

How to grow a cattleya orchid at home to achieve flowering

Location: very light but not sunny.

Before you start growing your favorite cattleya at home, you need to know where in the home she will feel most comfortable. The orchid loves light very much, because in nature it grows on rocky, well-lit surfaces or under the canopy of open tropical trees.

Therefore, in order to achieve the flowering of Cattleya orchids growing at home, it is necessary to choose a well-lit place for it. They can be a fairly light window sill in the southwest or east. You can also choose the south side of the housing, but be sure to cover it from direct sunlight.

It is better to refuse to plant a crop on the north or northeast side, where there is not enough light. You can find out if the orchid has enough lighting by the color of its leaves: pale yellowish ones speak of an excess of light, and their dark green color will tell about its lack. Ideally, the color of the leaf should be bright green.

At home, preparing for the flowering process of the Cattleya orchid goes something like this. In the summer, the plant is saturated with light, developing its pseudo-bulbs as much as possible, so that later buds appear on them. It is important to know that if the light during this period is not enough for the culture, then the flower will develop in a bud-cover, and if the lighting disappears completely, then the plant itself may die, it will need to be urgently resuscitated.

Therefore, it is very important that even in winter the culture be in the most illuminated place or create artificial light for it. It is best that diffused, half-transparent light falls on it at any time of the year.

How to make cattleya bloom at home: watering and top dressing

When learning how to make cattleya bloom at home, you need to pay attention to such a procedure as watering the plant. Watering an orchid has the following specifics:

• In summer, water sparingly, watering twice or thrice a week.
• Keep almost dry in winter.

The orchid loves to be given a warm shower during the summer months (approximately once every 4 weeks). It is very important to remember that the bushes die from an excess of moisture. Therefore, it is very necessary to let the substrate dry out before the next moistening of the earth.

It is necessary to moisten young sprouts, therefore watering home cattleya should be carried out on the ground, while not touching the culture itself, in order to prevent its decay. It is best that the daily irrigation regime is as close as possible to the natural growing conditions of the orchid. Because dew usually falls early in the morning and after sunset, then the sprinkling of water on the leaves must be carried out, respectively, in the morning and in the evening.

Fertilizers are necessary for the orchid directly during the cultivation of the crop. This is important when learning how to make a Cattleya orchid bloom at home.

Top dressing during the growth of false bulbs should be as follows: every 4 weeks, add fertilizer for orchids to the water for irrigation. When the growth and development of the pseudobulb stops, the supply of nutrients also stops. They are introduced again when the growth of the peduncle begins. From May to October, you need to feed more often. When flowers appear, top dressing is canceled. The composition of nutrients must necessarily include phosphorus and potassium in a minimum concentration.

How and what to water Cattleya

When learning how best to water Cattleya, it is worth remembering that it rains in its native lands in the afternoon, i.e. and it is better to moisten the ground of a houseplant in the afternoon. It is very good if rain or distilled water is used. According to experts, one of best practices to water the culture is to dip it in a basin of warm water.

At the same time, on cool and cloudy days, as well as during the dormant period after flowering, it is better not to water the earth, but only lightly spray it with a spray bottle. If moisture gets on the leaves of the culture, especially during the cold period, they should be immediately wiped dry so that the plant does not appear dark spots. The ingress of water on false bulbs leads to rotting of the roots, the orchid dies. During the dormant period, irrigation needs to be reduced and watering resumed when the peduncle begins to grow.

Temperature regime when growing Cattleya

An important parameter when growing a Cattleya plant at home is compliance with the temperature regime. Preferably the temperature should be:

• In summer, you need a lot of air and heat up to 25 ° C.
• In winter, during the day, maintain about 18 ° C, at night - about 14 ° C.

Important! At night, the temperature drops by several degrees.

For this representative of the Orchid family, it is optimal that the difference between the temperature between day and night is 5 - 7 ° C, so in the summer months the crop can be grown on the balcony. It must be remembered that the orchid does not tolerate drafts, although airing the room is an integral part of caring for it.

For the pseudobulb of Cattleya to ripen, it is necessary to lower the air temperature and reduce watering, otherwise only leaves will form. Air humidity should be 40 - 60% in winter, and up to 70% in summer, for which you need to spray the leaves often from May to October.

Growing cattleya in coco-soil and other substrate

Considering how to care for your favorite Cattleya, you should pay attention to the soil in which it should grow. Acquisition is possible. The most important requirement for it is to let the culture breathe, i.e. it should be loose enough. There are 2 options for suitable soil for this orchid:

• In the fibers of osmunda (fern plant).
• In pieces of pine bark of different sizes (from 5 mm to 5 cm).

The substrate from the latter suggests that the pine bark should be soaked for several days, and then rinsed with clean water. It is necessary that its pH is from 5.5 to 6.2. If the acidity is greater, then the plant will stop absorbing iron, its leaves will turn yellow and begin to fall off.

One of the surest options is to make the soil for the orchid with your own hands. For this you will need:

• 30% pine bark 1 - 2 cm thick.
• 20% spruce bark (piece size 0.5 - 1 cm).
• 20% foam (thickness 1 - 2 cm).
• 15% expanded clay.
• 10% peat.
• 5% charcoal (fraction 0.4 - 1 cm).

Another ratio is also possible:

• 30% wood fibre.
• 25% bark of coniferous trees.
• 15% foam.
• 15% sponge (or mineral wool).
• 15% oak leaves.

A good option for growing cattleya on the south side is coco-soil, which can be prepared from the following ingredients:

• 45% bark of coniferous trees, 1 - 2 cm in size.
• 15% oak leaves.
• 15% coconut fibre.
• 15% sphagnum moss.

At the same time, coconut fiber has a stable structure and sufficient air penetration. Rooting occurs quickly in such soil, therefore it is also indicated for plants with a damaged root system. It should be borne in mind that there are almost no nutrients in coconut fiber, so they need to be added additionally.

Separation and propagation of Cattleya orchids when caring for at home

Speaking about caring for a Cattleya orchid at home, it is impossible not to consider its reproduction. It occurs through the division of false bulbs. Fully formed pseudobulbs are separated, which are, in fact, independent plants, only held together by a single rhizome. The resulting cultures should consist of 2 - 3 false bulbs with healthy, undamaged roots. Before cutting the bush into pieces, it is necessary to sterilize the knife or secateurs with fire or alcohol. This will help protect the culture from various infections.

It is best that the reproduction and division of the Cattleya orchid occur before the appearance of new roots. Before disconnecting, it is necessary to lower the part of the bush that was underground into the water for 30 minutes in order to facilitate the accurate unraveling of the rhizome.

It is more convenient to carry out this manipulation without pulling the culture out of the water. After the roots are carefully separated, the root system is dried, rotting, damaged and dry roots are removed. Pay attention, when there are rotting parts on the rhizome, the plant was watered too abundantly, it is necessary to reduce the frequency of its irrigation in the future. Cuts require grouting, which can be done with crushed charcoal or cinnamon. Alcohol-containing antiseptics should not be used for this purpose, so as not to lead to additional drying of healthy culture tissues.

How to Raise a New Cattleya Baby

When wondering how to raise a new Cattleya baby by planting an old one, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of this procedure.

First of all, it would be good to disinfect the selected substrate before planting plants in it, especially when the aroma of the fungus is felt from it. This will become an additional barrier to pests and the development of diseases. For this purpose, the soil can be heat treated:

• Boil for several minutes.
• Pour for 10 min. boiling water, and then rinse again with hot water.

Secondly, when propagating your favorite cattleya at home, choosing a container for planting a crop, you need to start from the size of its root system. Ideally, if the roots are placed in a pot not filled with soil, and about 2 cm of emptiness remains on the sides. The flowerpot before planting the crop must be washed well at high temperature with a cleaning agent (or do the procedure in the dishwasher), which is left applied for half an hour, then rinsed with warm water. This will remove harmful bacteria.

Thirdly, it is advisable to make drainage by spreading foam plastic, small stones, etc. on the bottom of the growing tank.

How to plant cattleya and water after planting

Fourth, planting a Cattleya orchid should be done in the middle of the flowerpot. Before digging in a plant, you need to examine it for possible future pseudobulbs and exclude them from being buried in the ground (in order to prevent rotting due to interaction with a wet substrate). Ideally, sprinkle only the roots of the culture. To make the new sprout more stable and not fall over, it can be tied to a stick stuck next to it. After rooting, this rod is removed.

The first watering after it turned out to plant a cattleya can be carried out immediately (if the rhizome was dried all night after separation) or after 2 to 4 days (when the roots dried out only 2 hours). In the latter case, one must also take into account temperature regime and lighting intensity.

At 25 - 30 ° C in summer, watering is possible as early as 2 days after planting the plant, and in winter, you should wait 3 - 4 days. Planting and transplanting a bush occur in the same way, so they can be combined.

When to transplant Cattleya orchids at home

In general, a Cattleya orchid needs to be transplanted infrequently: every 2-3 years after flowering. The plant does not like such a procedure and does not tolerate it well, therefore it is necessary to expose the culture to it only when it is no longer possible to do otherwise. Even a simple change of the pot will be a reason for her to be naughty, and recovery will take a fairly long period. Cases due to which it will simply be necessary to transplant a Cattleya orchid at home:

• Decay of the root system.
• Lack of space for root development.
• Compacted and oxidized substrate.

It is possible to transplant an old bush when the newly appeared sprouts of future false bulbs reach 2–3 cm, or before the appearance of new roots. This time usually falls in the spring. If this is a recently acquired plant, then transplanting a new Cattleya orchid at home can be done either after the last flower has faded, or within the first year from making a purchase.

Indeed, in most cases, purchased plants grow in the same substrate from the very beginning, and they are transplanted only from smaller flowerpots to those that are larger.

Choosing the right time for this manipulation is half the success, because. in this case, the culture will be able to quickly get used to the new conditions, and its rhizome will quickly gain a foothold.

Why leaves and bulbs shriveled in Cattleya: pests that cause disease

It happens that Cattleya leaves become flabby, wrinkled - this may indicate the presence of pests, overheating of the rhizome or frostbite, as well as drying, dying off of the roots. The latter can occur due to an excess of moisture and insufficient drying of the root system or, conversely, insufficient irrigation, the use of overly concentrated dressings, and soil compaction. Cattleya can freeze in winter if the temperature drops below the optimum.

Mealy worms.

Whiteflies.

Laundry soap and modern insecticides help in many cases to get rid of such pests.

When overheated, not only the leaves, but also the bulbs wrinkle in the Cattleya. This happens when the temperature environment too high and no watering. Then the moisture from the plant comes out through the leaves and false bulbs, they become flabby. To bring the culture back to life, you need to remove it from the window deep into the room for a couple of hours, then moisten it and move the bush to another place, preventing new overheating.

Cattleya resuscitation: how to grow roots if the orchid is left without them

Improper care of the plant, ignoring the rules of its cultivation, as well as various diseases and infections lead to the death of its rhizome. If the cattleya is left without roots, it urgently needs resuscitation. During this event, the most favorable conditions are created for the renewal of the orchid root system. You should be aware that new roots will only grow from new shoots, so it is important to find such shoots. The main steps on how to try to grow cattleya roots are:

• Daily soak in water for 2 hours.
• After the appearance of the roots, the soaking of the plant is stopped.
• When the first 3 roots reach a length of 6 cm, the culture is planted in a small narrow pot with moss, charcoal, pine bark, coco soil.

Such manipulations can be delayed for 1 month or even a year. It is best and fastest to reanimate an orchid in the warm season or in a greenhouse, at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C.

Watch a video about how to care for a Cattleya orchid at home will lead to a long-term flowering of the plant:

This plot will be able to more clearly explain the basic principles of successful cultivation of culture. And let the orchid flowers please the eye for a long time!