Some gardeners, having planted a nut on the site, immediately forget about it, believing that the nut will grow without their participation, and after ten years they wonder why there is no harvest. Of course, a walnut is one of the most unpretentious garden centenarians, but it also requires a certain amount of attention. Otherwise, over time, instead of a large tall tree with a spreading crown, a lopsided slug with small fruits will grow.
Caring for a walnut is simple and includes:
- regular watering;
- periodic top dressing;
- pruning;
- treatment for pests and diseases.
Watering mode
The frequency of watering directly depends on the frequency of precipitation and the age of the tree. Young walnut seedlings, from spring to autumn, need very abundant watering 2 times a month. However, if the summer turned out to be rainy, additional moisture is not needed so that the roots do not rot. In the absence of autumn rains, the young hazel needs water-charging irrigation for a good wintering.
Large nuts, whose height exceeds 4 meters, practically do not need watering (except for a long drought), since their powerful roots are able to take moisture from the depths of the earth.
As for loosening the near-stem circle after watering, this is often not necessary so as not to damage the roots. Two loosenings per season and autumn digging are enough. Walnut does not like excessive interference at all, and to protect the soil from the formation of a dry crust, it is better to use mulch.
Nut Fertilizer Features
Nut feeding begins from the fourth year of life. This applies to those seedlings, during planting of which the substances necessary for the development of the tree were introduced into the planting pit. Their nut is usually enough for the first three years.
Starting from the fourth year after planting, in the spring should be applied (ammonium nitrate), and in the fall - mineral preparations, which include potassium and phosphorus (potassium salt, superphosphate).
walnut pruning
During the first five years of a nut's life, the crown of the tree is formed:
- at the annual nut, select and leave the strongest shoot, which will become the main one, and pinch the tops of the remaining branches;
- in the future, the side shoots must be cut off until 6 to 10 skeletal branches are formed on the tree (they are pinched).
Formative pruning is best done in the spring, and sanitary pruning in the fall.
Preventive treatments
Walnut, like other garden trees, is loved by pests and diseases, so it is better to take action and protect it from damage than to actively treat it later.
For prevention, the nut must be sprayed twice a year with a solution of copper sulfate: in early spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed, and in late autumn, after the leaves have fallen.
Video about the features of the formation of a young nut
The walnut tree grows up to 300-400 years. This means that at least 5 generations of one family can hide in its shadow and enjoy the fruits. If you are just setting up your garden and dreaming of a family tree, perhaps this article will help you make a choice in favor of a walnut.
Walnut wood belongs to valuable wood species, has a beautiful dark shade and is often used to produce expensive designer furniture. The leaves are used to make a natural dye for fabrics. And if you rinse your hair with a decoction of walnut leaves, they will acquire a darker shade.
From unripe fruits, which contain vitamin C, all kinds of desserts are cooked in the form of jam or ground with honey and dried fruits. And the kernels of mature nuts contain such irreplaceable vitamins as K, which regulates the mechanism of blood coagulation, and P, which normalizes the state of capillary walls, increasing their strength and elasticity. Over time, stored nuts only concentrate their beneficial substances.
How to harvest and store crops
Nuts begin to bear fruit, depending on the variety, at the age of 3 years. Approximately in 5-6 years we will collect only 5-10 nuts. At the age of 15, we are waiting for 1-2 buckets of crops, at 20 years old - a bag, and at the age of 50-100 years - a whole centner! The fruits ripen in different period from August to mid-October.
When the ripened pericarp, the green peel around the nut, begins to crack, and the nuts fall to the ground, then it's time to harvest. You should not hit the branches with sticks to get the fruits. You may need to wait a bit and collect fallen nuts or use stepladders and ladders so as not to damage the branches with "barbaric" methods.
Approximately in 5-6 years we will collect only 5-10 nuts. At the age of 15, we are waiting for 1-2 buckets of crops, at 20 years old - a bag, and at the age of 50-100 years - a whole centner!
The collected nuts must be cleaned of the green pericarp so that there is no rotting. Dry by spreading in a thin layer on outdoors. Place nuts in linen bags and store in a cool and dark place. You should not store nuts in hot rooms, as their oils high temperatures become toxic and bitter. Walnuts stored in the shell retain antioxidant properties, and without the shell, they quickly oxidize and reduce their usefulness. It is better to plant these trees on the border of the site so as not to shade the rest of the plantings. Walnut is quite unpretentious and disease resistant. The walnut is undemanding to the soil; it grows almost everywhere. But does not like heavy and damp soils.
Planting a walnut
Planting of seedlings is carried out in the spring, since the young walnut is sensitive to frost and does not take root well during autumn planting. But it is better to prepare a pit for seedlings in the fall. It is necessary to dig a hole of about 1X1X1m. It should be 20-30 cm deeper than the roots. The fertile soil layer is mixed with humus and peat in a ratio of 1:1:1. We add fertilizers: dolomite flour - 500-1000 g, superphosphate - 2.5-3 kg, potassium chloride - 800 g. Fertilizers are mixed with the soil mixture, the pit is filled and left for the winter.
In the spring, the main root is cut to a length of 40 cm and the cut is covered with clay. The remaining roots are straightened, you can treat them with a growth stimulator. To do this, prepare a clay mash: take 1 part of rotted manure and 3 parts of clay. Water is brought to a creamy consistency with the addition of growth stimulants - "Epin" or "Humate". The roots are placed in a hole and covered with a mixture of earth and humus 1: 1. The root neck should be placed at ground level or slightly higher. The soil is well trampled down and watered with 1-2 buckets of water. When water is absorbed, the ground is mulched with straw, humus or peat to retain moisture. In dry weather, water 2-3 times a week.
Planting of seedlings is carried out in the spring, since the young walnut is sensitive to frost and does not take root well during autumn planting. But it is better to prepare a pit for seedlings in the fall.
Walnut pruning
Walnut is a light-loving plant, and a dense crown reduces the tree's fertility. Pruning stimulates growth and shapes the future crown. The crown can be improved-tiered, cup-shaped with 3-4 or shift-leader with 5-6 branches.
Fertilizer
Fertilize walnuts with special complexes or green manure, such as lupine, oats, rank, peas. Green manure is sown between rows at the end of summer and plowed into the soil in autumn. Mineral fertilizers should be applied carefully, as the root system does not like loosening. Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied during the fruiting period and under young trees, as they can cause plant diseases. And phosphorus-potassium is well perceived and increases fertility. A medium-aged tree requires 10 kg of superphosphate, 6 kg of ammonium nitrate, up to 3 kg of potassium salt, 10 kg of ammonium sulfate per year. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, and the rest in the fall.
Diseases and pests
Brown spotting or marsoniosis- most dangerous disease walnut. It affects leaves, nuts, fruits. Brown spots appear on the leaves, in rainy summer they grow. The leaves fall off, the fruits remain unripe.
- Fight method: We collect and burn fallen leaves, cut off damaged branches. You should also spray the tree with 1% Bordeaux liquid 3-4 times with an interval of 2 weeks. Also, it is good to use fungicides "Strobi", "Horus", "Redom il Gold", etc.
nut moth. Its caterpillars bite into the pulp of the leaves, weaken the tree.
- Fight method: To combat them, you need to spray the plant with systemic poisons for fruit crops: Bombardier, Tanrek, Confidor, Calypso.
. Caterpillars live first in spider web nests, and then crawl along the tree. Leaves and young shoots are damaged.
- Fight method: If nests are found, they must be urgently removed and burned. Can be treated with insecticides: Aktara, Calypso, Confidor, etc.
. Caterpillars feed in early June and eat out the kernels of young fruits, after which the fruits fall off.
- Fight method: It is necessary to carry out timely treatment with insecticides, as with the American white butterfly.
Aphids there are different types. They feed on the juice of leaves and buds, and also weaken the nut.
- Fight method: In the fight against aphids, pesticides, such as Decis 2.5 EC 0.025%, will help. During the growing season, the treatment is repeated, since aphids have two or more generations over the summer.
Nut codling moth- the most dangerous pest. Caterpillars infect young fruits, and they fall prematurely.
- Fight method: To combat the pest, an overlay is used on the trunk of "trapping belts", which are strengthened at a height of 30-50 cm from the ground. This is a tape made of dense fabric, 15-20 cm wide, non-drying glue (ALT) is applied to it. If there are too many pests, the belt is changed and the old one is burned. We also spray Decis 2.5 EC 0.025% or Karate 2.5 EC 0.1-0.15%.
Nut warty mite. A very small pest (0.1 mm), as a result of its harmful activity, formations resembling warts appear on the leaves. Damages young plants.
- Fight method: To combat the tick, you need to use special preparations - acaricides, for example, Vermitek.
Walnut breeding is developing very actively, and many new varieties have been bred, winter-hardy, resistant to diseases and pests. For example, varieties: Yarovskoy, Chernovetsky, Skinosky, Kozaku, as well as early-growing varieties, for example, Ideal, Bukovinsky-1, etc., which begin to bear fruit already in the 2nd year. But this is a topic for a separate article.
If your garden does not yet have a walnut, be sure to plant it. In summer, in the shade of its crown, you can hide from the heat, and in winter you can enjoy tasty and healthy fruits. The noble, unpretentious, prolific walnut can become your family tree for centuries!
Many gardeners dream of planting a walnut on their plot, but most refuse this idea right away, fearing difficulties. In fact, it is quite possible to grow a nut, and even beginner gardeners can do this task.
How to plant a walnut correctly - the basics of agricultural technology with seedlings
There are two options for planting a walnut: seedlings and seeds (nuts). Let's consider each of the options in more detail:
- seedlings.
In order to plant a tree in your area, you need to get a seedling. It can be purchased at specialized points of sale or you can take a young shoot of a plant from friends. If you buy a seedling, then pay attention, firstly, to the bark - it must be without damage. Second, take a look at the root system - the main root should be intact. Only a strong two-three-year-old seedling, with a trunk thickness of at least 1 cm, is able to quickly take root and avoid various diseases.
As for the landing time, there is no consensus here. Some gardeners argue that planting should be done only in the fall, since at this time the sap flow slows down in the tree, and therefore it is easier for even a weak seedling with bark disorders to take root and avoid infection. Other gardeners believe that planting a walnut in the spring is the only correct option. Moreover, planting work must be carried out in early spring, before the buds swell. Since there is no consensus, it is worth focusing on the climatic zone in which the site is located. So, due to the warm climate, even in winter, it is better for residents of the southern regions to plant seedlings in autumn, for residents of the northern regions it is better to do planting work in early spring - a young tree planted for the winter may not endure severe frosts and die. The inhabitants of the middle lane are the best of all, since they can plant seedlings both in early spring and late autumn: in this case, a young tree has an equal chance to take root and grow.
Planting a seedling is carried out as follows: in the chosen place, holes are prepared with a depth of about 50-60 cm, with a diameter of 1 m. Potash and phosphorus fertilizers, humus, lime are laid in the pits, after which the future tree is placed in them so that its root collar is 3-5 cm above the ground. The hole is covered with earth, which must be tightly tamped around the plant, and then carry out abundant watering.
Growing walnuts from seeds
Planting a walnut with seeds is more laborious, but interesting in terms of at least a country experiment. First you need to choose planting material. For planting, we select only high-quality nuts, the shell of which is neither too soft nor too hard. In addition, the shell should not be damaged, and the nuts themselves should be large enough.
It is curious that opinions on the preparation of nuts for planting vary quite a lot - some believe that in order to ensure germination it is necessary to remove the outer shell, while others are sure that nuts should be planted only in their original form. Alas, the long-standing dispute has not yet been put to an end, therefore, if you are planting a walnut for the first time, you can use both methods. The only condition that is equally suitable for both methods is the choice of seeds. The easiest way to do this is by placing the nuts in a container of water. Some of the seeds will go under water, some will remain on the surface. And despite the fact that both are suitable for planting, sunken seeds have a much higher chance of germinating, since they have a solid and large core. By the way, this method is perfect for selecting peeled seeds, but it must be used only if the shell is not damaged.
Then you can go one of two ways: the first is to plant the selected material in pots or special containers, and in a couple of years, with proper care, you will have an excellent seedling ready for transplanting into open ground. The second option is to plant prepared nuts immediately in open ground.
When planting a nut in pots, the following must be done: 4 months before planting, it is necessary to place the nut in wet sand and make sure that the environment in which the planting material is placed does not dry out, but is not too wet either.
A container with sand and nuts planted in it must be placed in a cool place. Ideally, if this is the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, or you can use the basement or, in the end, the balcony.
Thus, the nuts undergo stratification, which improves their germination, and later the fruiting of the tree. When it's time to plant a nut, you need to get it out and place it in a pot with prepared fertile soil, deepening it by 4-5 cm. The plant does not require specific care, within two years it is necessary to carry out timely watering, loosening the soil, and removing weeds.
On the question of how to plant a walnut in open ground in the middle lane, all gardeners agree that if you place the seeds to a depth equal to their greater length, then they will simply not survive not only winter, but even spring frosts (if landing for some reason is done in the spring).
The deepening of nuts is carried out to a depth of 1/2 - 2/3 of a spade bayonet, since this is the only way to protect it from extreme exposure to low temperatures. And only in the southern regions the rule of choosing the planting depth for a large seed length is relevant. But in the northern latitudes, planting in the autumn is out of the question, and you will have to deal with germination at home.
When planting in open ground, the seeds are placed three at a time, with a distance between them of 12-15 cm. In this way, the best germination can be ensured, but if all three sprout, then after two years you will have to choose one, the strongest seedling, and the rest either deposited in other places, or removed altogether.
Soil preparation
Of course, you can’t sow seeds anywhere, since good germination, confident growth and fruiting seriously depend on how correctly the place was chosen and how well it was prepared.
First of all, it should be remembered that this plant is thermophilic, and therefore you will have to choose the land from well-insolated places in the backyard. In addition, the walnut does not tolerate crowding, because there should not be tall trees and shrubs around the future tree (like pears, apple trees, overgrown cherries), but small shrubs (currants, raspberries, gooseberries) within a radius of at least three meters may already be present . Walnut planting interval - at least 10 meters.
Soil preparation is quite simple, but prolonged. It begins in late spring with a deepening of the fertile layer - the soil is removed to a depth of 0.7-1 m and a width of 0.5 m. A fertile soil layer taken from the same area is poured into the resulting pit. Further, throughout the entire time until late, the planting site is loosened to improve aeration and remove weeds.
Finally, it should be said that even with careful observance of all conditions and rules, the taste and abundance of the harvest on a new tree can seriously differ from the mother tree, both for better and for worse, and even seedlings grafted in nurseries are not a guarantee of tasty and large walnuts. . However, even if the fruits disappoint you, the tree itself will become an excellent decoration of the site, besides, from its seeds it will be possible to make attempts to achieve your goal again and again.
From antiquity to the present day, the walnut has been called the “tree of life”. Due to the unique composition, rich in vitamins, micro and macro elements and other useful substances, walnut fruits are used in the treatment of many diseases, restore loss of strength, and satisfy hunger. To saturate the body with useful elements, a few nuts a day are enough.
Rules for the purchase of walnut seedlings
Growing a walnut begins with the right choice of planting material. The walnut has one interesting feature: the plant first gives all its strength to the development of the root system, then to the growth and development of the trunk and green mass. Therefore, seedlings that can take root and give offspring in the future are not developed shoots with leaves, but a powerful root system. A seedling with leaves, on the contrary, may not take root, moreover, when planting, seedlings are pruned so that food goes exclusively to rooting.
A healthy seedling should be strong, with developed roots (the root system of a nut is pivotal). The bark of the plant should be meticulously examined; it should not have any mechanical or other damage.
Important! If a walnut seedling has too dry bark, rotten and soft roots, you should refuse to buy it - the plant is sick.
The best option for choosing a seedling is to contact a nursery, where you can choose high-quality healthy planting material. And then, in the nursery, they will tell you whether the plant has a seed origin or is it grafted. From a grafted seedling, if it is also early-growing, a crop can be obtained in the third year, and from a seed seedling in the tenth, not earlier. Choosing a place to plant a walnut
Walnut loves bright sunlight, with enough light, the crown becomes sprawling, dense. The walnut is a powerful plant, the height of the tree is up to 25 meters, and the diameter of the trunk often reaches seven meters. The tree can grow on a slight slope, at 18 degrees of slope.
It is undesirable to plant a nut on dense, poorly aerated and swampy soils. The soil for walnuts is recommended with a uniform content of sand and clay, the location of groundwater close to the surface is contraindicated.
As already mentioned, the nut grows as a tall and sprawling tree; when planting, it should be taken into account that it will close the light to plants growing nearby. If this happens, these plants should be transplanted to another place. 
Where to plant a walnut on the site - the best place for a nut there will be a south or south-west side of the site protected from the wind. When choosing a site for a nut, do not plant it near the house or outbuildings, the roots of the plant, growing, can damage the foundation of the building. Do not plant close to the fence.
Did you know? Pliny's mention of nuts has survived. In them, he writes that the plant came to Greece from the gardens of the Persian king Cyrus, then by trading expeditions from Greece to Rome, and from there to the territory of modern France, Switzerland, Bulgaria and Germany. The nut came to America only in the 19th century.
Preparatory work before boarding
A walnut will not require much attention when growing and caring for itself, if the seedlings and the planting site are carefully prepared. The landing site must be cleaned of plant residues, loosened and leveled. If the soil does not meet the requirements, part of it can be replaced with a more fertile one.
The planting hole is dug immediately before planting, so that the amount of moisture needed by the plant is preserved in it, since it is not desirable to pour water into the hole. Its depth depends on the length of the roots, it should be dug deeper so that the roots are conveniently located and do not break.
Seedlings will need high-quality top dressing. Walnut fertilizer is prepared from the following components: a bucket of manure, 400 grams of wood ash, 200 grams of superphosphate. This nutrient mixture is placed on the bottom of the pit, and when planted, it is sprinkled with soil; contact of the roots with fertilizer is undesirable.
The process of planting seedlings and the distance between them
The most favorable time to plant a walnut seedling is spring. The plant will have time to take root and get stronger before winter frosts, which can destroy young trees.
Seedlings before planting should be inspected, if there are damaged, rotten or dried roots, they are cut off. To facilitate and speed up the rooting process, the roots of the seedlings are dipped into a clay mash with the addition of a growth stimulator. The talker is made from clay, rotted manure and water (3:1:1), the density is like that of store-bought sour cream.
Planting a walnut is carried out slowly, the roots are neatly straightened, it is advisable to give them a horizontal position. Then, starting from the lowest roots, they are gradually covered with soil. As a result, the upper part of the roots should be six to seven centimeters below the ground surface. The soil of the trunk circle is gently tamped, a shallow groove is made around the circle for irrigation. Planted nuts are watered abundantly, about 15 liters of water per tree. Since the crown grows strongly in diameter, the tree does not need neighbors at a distance of less than five meters. 
Walnut, subject to the rules of planting and timely careful care, will respond with a good harvest. Plant care is not difficult, the main thing is to carry out the procedures on time and know some of the features. For example, soil care, weeding, loosening are carried out no deeper than five centimeters, since the upper roots of the plant are located close to the surface.
Did you know? The priests of Ancient Babylon knew about the benefits of walnuts for brain activity. Eminent gentlemen forbade common people to eat nuts for fear that they would become too smart. The walnut, according to many scientists-researchers of antiquity, is among the ten first plants cultivated by people.
Preventive treatment of trees from diseases and pests
In early spring, the plant requires some preventive measures: from the trunk and skeletal branches of the walnut, you need to remove the bark that has died over the winter and the whitewash that has come down; cleaned surfaces must be washed with a solution of copper sulfate (3%); refresh whitewash.
In the spring, while the buds are still sleeping, the tree and soil of the near-stem circle are sprayed with one percent Bordeaux liquid to prevent diseases and pests.
In the summer, to prevent the appearance of pests and diseases, the soil around the nut is cleaned, the tree itself from time to time must be carefully examined for insects, any suspicious spots on the bark and foliage. If found, immediately treat with fungicides (in case of signs of disease) or insecticides (in case of insects).
After harvesting and falling leaves, the trees are treated again for prevention, the same means can be used. Experienced growers recommend using a seven percent solution of urea instead of Bordeaux liquid and copper sulfate. This solution is multifunctional, it is also a rescue from insects, has a fungicidal effect and is a nitrogen fertilizer.
Important! Since the nut needs nitrogen during the growth period, it is better to process it with urea in the spring.
Watering rules
After a winter with low rainfall, or even without snow, moisture is vital for the walnut. Water the tree well, up to about twenty liters of water. With normal rainfall, watering the walnut is carried out once every two months in the spring. In summer, with heat and lack of rain, the need for watering increases. From about May to July, walnut trees are watered twice a month, three to four buckets of water per tree, a lack of moisture can affect the yield of walnuts.
Loosening the soil does not need to be carried out after each watering, the nut does not like this. If it rains frequently in spring and summer, it is not worth watering, the nut loves moisture, but due to the structure of the root system, its excess will be fatal. Watering is also reduced for trees above four meters, their root system draws moisture from the deep layers of the soil.
At the end of summer, watering is reduced. 
If the autumn is not rainy, it is abundantly watered, this is necessary for wintering. Mulching is necessary to avoid cracking and the formation of a rough earthen crust. Thus, the soil will also avoid drying out on especially hot days. Mulch is made from straw or sawdust, peat in a five-centimeter layer.
tree nutrition
In May, it's time to fertilize and the question arises: how to feed the walnut? Adult trees over three years old need up to six kilograms of ammonium nitrate, they feed the nut in early spring or in the first days of summer.
At the end of June for better growth shoots pinch their tops and feed the tree with phosphates and potassium, adding trace elements. On sale there are fertilizers for fruit trees with a complex composition. A tree that bears fruit needs 10 kg of superphosphate, 10 kg of ammonium sulfate, 3 kg of potassium salt and 6 kg of ammonium nitrate for the whole season.
Important! Biological fertilizers can be used: between walnut trees, plant green manure plants (lupins, oats) in autumn, which are plowed into the ground in late autumn.
When and how to prune
In the first three years of a nut's life, it is necessary to form its trunk and crown. The side branches of the tree are pruned every year. Sanitary or formative pruning of a walnut is carried out with a sharp tool so as not to harm the plant, not to leave burrs.
For the formation of the crown, the best period is when the tree has reached one and a half meters of growth, while the bole is up to 90 cm, and the height of the crown is up to 60 cm.
When forming the crown, the branches are shortened by 20 cm, leaving about ten skeletal shoots, they are cleared of germinating shoots and stems. It will be possible to give the crown its final shape in four to five years, but after that it will be necessary to cut only the branches that interfere with the growth of the main shoots, growing inward and thickening the crown too much.
The basic rules for pruning a walnut tree include:
- The procedure is carried out either in the spring before the start active movement juices, or in the fall;
- In autumn, pruning of dry and damaged branches is done so that the tree does not give valuable food to obviously doomed shoots in winter;
- All sections after the procedure must be treated with garden pitch to avoid infections.
Wintering walnut
After harvesting and autumn pruning, the site must be cleaned, all plant debris removed, because it is in them that harmful insects overwinter. Inspect trees, branches and bark, pests also often winter in it, whitewash the tree trunk with lime. It is advisable to carefully prepare young trees and seedlings of the current year for winter: the near-trunk circle of plants must be covered with mulch. You can also cover with manure, but so that it does not come into contact with the bark, the walnut trunks are wrapped with burlap, then you can lay spruce branches on the trunk circle.
Wood walnut (lat. Juglans regia)- a species of the genus Nut of the Nut family. Otherwise, this nut is called Voloshsky, royal or Greek. In the wild, walnut grows in western Transcaucasia, northern China, the Tien Shan, northern India, Greece and Asia Minor. Individual specimens of the plant are found even in Norway. But the largest natural hazel trees are located in the south of Kyrgyzstan. Iran is believed to be the birthplace of the walnut, although it has been speculated that it may be of Chinese, Indian or Japanese origin. The first mention of the walnut in historical documents dates back to the 7th-5th century BC: Pliny writes that the Greeks brought this culture from the gardens of Cyrus, the king of Persia.
From Greece, the plant came to Rome already under the name "walnut", and then spread throughout France, Switzerland, Germany and Bulgaria. The walnut was introduced to the American continent only in early XIX centuries. The walnut came to Ukraine from Moldova and Romania under the name "Voloshsky".
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Planting and caring for walnuts
- Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in the spring (before the start of sap flow), in the southern regions, autumn planting is preferable.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: any with a pH of 5.5-5.8.
- Watering: regular, in summer - 2 times a month at a consumption of 3-4 buckets of water for each m² of the near-trunk circle, watering is stopped from August. In dry autumn, water-charging winter watering is carried out.
- Top dressing: nitrogen fertilizers are applied twice: in spring and early summer, under the root, and potash and phosphorus - in the fall. For a season, one adult nut needs an average of about 10 kg of superphosphate, 6 kg of ammonium nitrate, 3 kg of potassium salt and 10 kg of ammonium sulfate.
- Pruning: sanitary and formative pruning - in the spring, before the start of sap flow, in the fall - sanitary.
- Reproduction: seeds and grafting.
- Pests: american white butterfly, codling moth, walnut warty mite, walnut moth and aphid.
- Diseases: bacteriosis, marsoniosis (brown spot), root cancer, bacterial burn.
Read more about growing walnuts below.
Walnut - description
The walnut is a large tree growing up to 25 meters in height, the trunk of the walnut sometimes reaches three, and sometimes seven meters in girth. The walnut bark is gray in color, branches with leaves form an extensive crown. Walnut leaves, complex, pinnate, consisting of elongated leaves 4 to 7 cm long, bloom at the same time with small, greenish flowers pollinated by the wind - in May. Both male and female flowers open on the same tree.
The fruit of the walnut is a one-seeded drupe with a thick leathery pericarp and a globular bone with incomplete partitions, which can be from two to five. Inside the shell is an edible walnut kernel. The weight of one fruit is from 5 to 17 g.
Greece walnut does not have high frost resistance - it freezes already at a temperature of -25-28 ºC. The walnut tree lives 300-400 years, its wood, which belongs to valuable species, is often used to make designer furniture. And from the leaves of the walnut, a dye for textiles is produced. The main producing countries of valuable walnuts today are China, the USA, Turkey, Iran and Ukraine.
We will tell you how to plant and care for a walnut, how to shape its crown, how to fertilize a walnut so that its yields are stable and consistently high, how to process a walnut from pests and diseases, which walnut varieties are best grown in the garden and give you a lot of other interesting and useful information.
Planting a walnut
When to plant a walnut
Usually walnut seedlings are planted in spring, but in the southern regions autumn planting is also possible. With a good drainage layer, any soil will do for walnuts. Clay soil can be improved by adding peat and compost to it. The place for planting a nut should be sunny, because this tree is photophilous, and in the shade the seedling will simply die. The highest productivity is distinguished by trees growing alone in the sun. Walnut does not like areas with high groundwater, and the optimal soil pH for walnuts is pH 5.5-5.8.
Since male and female walnut flowers do not bloom at the same time, it is good if there are a couple of other varieties of walnut trees nearby, and they can grow even in neighboring gardens - pollen is carried by the wind to a distance of 200-300 m.
Walnut seedlings are examined before planting: rotten, diseased or dried roots and shoots are removed, after which the roots are lowered into a clay mash with the density of store sour cream. The composition of the talker, in addition to water, includes 1 part of decomposed manure and 3 parts of clay. You can add a growth stimulator to the talker - Humat or Epin.
How to plant a walnut in spring
A pit for walnuts has been prepared since autumn. Since a young tree at first does not have a powerful root system, the main source of nutrition for it will be soil one meter in diameter from the nut, so it is so important to create optimal conditions for its growth and development.
The size of the nut hole is determined by the composition of the soil. On fertile soils, a pit with a depth and diameter of 60 cm will be quite enough, on less fertile soils, the depth and diameter of the pit should be greater - within 1 m. another - you will not need it to plant a walnut. Upper layer mix the soil with peat and humus (or compost) in equal proportions, but in no case use fresh organic matter to enrich the soil.
Add 2.5 kg of superphosphate, 800 g of potassium chloride, 750 g of dolomite flour and one and a half kilograms of wood ash to the soil mixture, mix all the ingredients thoroughly with the soil. This amount of fertilizer mixed with a fertile layer of soil will be enough for a tree for the first 3-5 years of life, during which a powerful root system will develop in a walnut, capable of independently extracting nutrients.
Fill the hole with the prepared soil mixture to the top and pour one and a half to two buckets of water into it. This completes the autumn preparation of the walnut pit.
During the winter, the soil in the pit will settle and compact, and in the spring, when it is time to plant a nut, remove the soil mixture from the pit, drive a 3 m high support stake into the center of the bottom, pour a hill around it from the same soil mixture of such a height that the root neck of the plant installed on mound of the seedling turned out to be 3-5 cm above the surface of the site. Fill the hole with the remaining soil mixture, tamp the surface and pour 20-30 liters of water under the seedling.
When the water is absorbed, the soil settles, and the root neck of the seedling is at the level of the surface of the plot, tie the tree to the support and mulch its near-stem circle with a layer of peat, sawdust or straw 2-3 cm thick. At a distance of 30-50 cm from the trunk, form from humus and earth in a ratio of 1:3 roller 15 cm high to collect rainwater.
Planting walnuts in autumn
Autumn planting of a walnut is not much different from spring. The only difference is that the pit is not prepared for six months, but two to three weeks before planting. And we remind you: the autumn planting of a walnut is permissible only in the southern regions, where there are no frosty winters.
Spring walnut care
How to grow a walnut in the garden and how to properly care for a walnut? Garden work begins in early spring. In the third decade of March, if the air temperature does not fall below -4-5 ºC, it is possible to carry out sanitary and formative pruning of the walnut. If weather conditions do not allow pruning during this period, postpone it for more late time, but you need to have time to trim the nut before the start of sap flow.
Walnuts need moisture in the spring. In April, if there was little snow in winter, and no rain in spring, carry out water-charging watering of the tree. Clean its bole and skeletal branches from dead bark, wash them with a 3% solution of copper sulphate and refresh the whitewashing of the walnut bole that has come down over the winter with lime. At the same time, preventive treatment of trees from diseases and pests is carried out and seedlings are planted.
May is the time to fertilize. What to feed a walnut? An adult tree needs about 6 kg of ammonium nitrate per year, which is best applied in spring and early summer. This applies to trees older than 3 years - planted in a pit when planting fertilizers should be enough for the plant for at least three years.
Summer walnut care
In hot, and especially dry summers, the need for watering walnuts increases. From May to July inclusive, the near-stem circle of the walnut is moistened twice a month without subsequent loosening of the soil, since the walnut does not like this. But weeds need to be fought. Walnuts can suffer from fungal diseases and harmful insects in the summer, so it is very important to inspect the tree daily so as not to miss the onset of the disease or the appearance of pests, and in case of danger, the walnut should be treated with the appropriate drug - an insecticide or fungicide.
At the end of July, pinch the tops of those shoots whose growth you want to accelerate - the shoots must have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather, otherwise they will die from frostbite in winter. Carry out foliar feeding of the walnut with phosphate and potash fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Some varieties of walnuts ripen as early as the end of August, in which case you should be ready to harvest.
Autumn walnut care
Autumn is the season for harvesting walnuts. Depending on the variety, nuts ripen from late August to late October. When the harvest is over, it is necessary to put things in order in the garden: carry out sanitary pruning of the walnut after leaf fall, rake fallen leaves and cuttings of shoots, treat the trees from pests and pathogens that have settled for the winter in the walnut bark and in the soil under the tree, whiten the bole and the base of the skeletal lime branches. Saplings and young trees must be prepared for winter.
Walnut Processing
In order for the walnut not to be attacked by pests or infected with diseases, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment twice a year. When and how to process a walnut? Spring processing is carried out early, on still dormant buds - the walnut and the soil of the near-stem circle are sprayed with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. Autumn processing of walnuts with the same preparations is carried out after leaf fall, when the trees go into a dormant period.
Many gardeners instead of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate use a seven percent urea solution for processing, which is also a fungicide, insecticide and nitrogen fertilizer. It is better to treat trees with urea in the spring, when the nut needs nitrogen.
Watering a walnut
Growing a walnut requires regular watering. This is a moisture-loving plant, but if it rains from time to time in spring and summer, the nut can not be watered. In a hot and dry season, it is necessary to water the nut twice a month from May to the end of July, spending 3-4 buckets of water per m² of the near-stem circle. From the beginning of August, watering should be stopped. If the autumn is without rain, carry out a sub-winter watering of the walnut to make it easier for him to survive the winter.
Walnut nutrition
The root system of the walnut does not like loosening, so mineral fertilizer complexes must be applied with great care. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring and early summer, since during the fruiting period they contribute to the infection of the nut with fungal diseases. Phosphates and potash fertilizers are well perceived by the culture; it is better to introduce them into the soil of the near-stem circle in the fall. In total, a fruiting walnut needs 10 kg of superphosphate, 3 kg of potassium salt, 10 kg of ammonium sulfate and 6 kg of ammonium nitrate during the growing season.
As fertilizers, you can also use green manure - lupine, peas, oats or rank, which are sown in the aisles of hazel at the end of summer, and plowed into the soil in autumn.
Wintering walnut
Since the walnut culture is thermophilic, some of its varieties can only grow in areas where there are no cold winters. However, there are varieties that can withstand short frosts down to -30 ºC. Adult plants hibernate without shelter, but seedlings and one-year-old trees must be wrapped in burlap, and their near-trunk circles, retreating 10 cm from the tree trunk, must be mulched with manure for the winter.
Walnut pruning
When to prune a walnut
In the spring, in March or April, when the air in the garden has already warmed up to positive temperatures, but the sap flow has not yet begun, sanitary and formative pruning of the walnut is carried out. Some gardeners prefer to prune the walnut in the second half of summer, since it is difficult to determine which of the shoots is too weak or frostbitten in early spring. Walnuts are pruned in autumn for sanitary purposes so that the plant does not feed sick, drying and broken branches and shoots in winter.
How to trim a walnut
If the walnut crown is not formed, it may eventually show major defects - breaking forks with sharp corners, too long branches that have few lateral branches, fruiting shoots dying off due to thickening of the crown, and many other troubles. Shaping the walnut improves the quality and quantity of the fruit and regulates the growth of the tree, making it easier to care for.
For pruning - sanitary or forming - use a sterile and sharp knife or secateurs, which makes the cuts even, without burrs. The first time the nut is cut when the tree reaches a height of 1.5 m. The stem of the tree should be 80-90 cm, and the crown should be 50-60 cm. Forming a crown, no more than 10 skeletal branches are left on the tree, the shoots are shortened by 20 cm, and the bole is regularly cleared of overgrowth. In order to lay the skeleton of the crown, you will need three or four years, but as soon as it is formed, you will only have to remove the shoots that are fattening, competing and thickening the crown.
pruning walnut in spring
In the spring, as soon as the weather permits, carry out a sanitary pruning of the nut, removing all frostbitten, diseased, dry and improperly growing branches and shoots. Treat slices thicker than 7 mm with garden pitch. Simultaneously with the sanitary pruning of the walnut is carried out.
If the tree has not been properly cared for for a long time, over time, fruiting shifts to the periphery - fruits form only in the upper parts of the crown. To fix this, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning of the walnut.
In early spring, skeletal branches located too high are cut down, after which the crown of the tree is strongly thinned out to ensure the penetration of air and light into it. Branches are cut off in places of a lateral branch in order to direct their development not up, but to the sides. The influx of tree sap over time will cause the awakening of the buds, which will give new shoots, from which the crown will form.
Pruning a walnut in autumn
During the harvest, a walnut branch sometimes breaks or shoots are accidentally cut off. Some shoots can be affected by disease or pests, therefore, after leaf fall, it is advisable to carry out sanitary pruning of diseased, broken, improperly growing and drying shoots so that in winter the tree does not consume food on them. Thick sections after pruning are treated with garden pitch.
Reproduction of a walnut
How to propagate a walnut
Walnuts are propagated by seeds and vegetatively by grafting. In order to graft a varietal cutting, you have to grow a stock from seeds, so we will describe to you both methods of propagating a walnut.
Propagation of walnut seeds
Growing walnuts from seed long-term perspective. It is advisable to harvest seeds from healthy, productive trees growing in your area. Choose large fruits with an easily extractable core. The maturity of the kernel is determined by the state of the pericarp - the pericarp. If the pericarp is cracked or can be easily separated by making an incision, then the nucleus is ripe. Nuts are freed from the pericarp, and dried for a week in the sun, and then transferred to a room where they are dried at a temperature of 18-20 ºC. You can plant nuts this fall, or next spring, but then they need to be stratified.
Thick-skinned nuts are stratified for 90-100 days at a temperature of 0 to 7 ºC, and varieties with a medium-thick shell and thin-skinned - a month and a half at a temperature of 15-18 ºC. In order for stratified nuts to germinate faster, they are kept in moist sand at a temperature of 15-18 ºC until they peck, and then they are sown: those that have pecked are sown less often, those that did not have time to peck - thicker. Sow walnut fruits when the soil warms up to 10 ºC. The distance between seeds in a row is 10-15 cm, between rows - 50 cm. Nuts of medium size are embedded in the soil to a depth of 8-9 cm, and those that are larger - by 10-11 cm.
Shoots begin to appear by the end of April. As a rule, 70% of stratified nuts germinate. When the seedlings have two true leaves, they are planted in a school, pinching the tip of the central root. Seedlings grow slowly in the school garden - in order to grow a rootstock, you will need 2-3 years, and in order to grow a full-fledged seedling that can be transplanted into the garden, you will have to wait 5-7 years. You can speed up the process if you grow seedlings not in open field, and in a greenhouse - under a film coating, a rootstock grows in a year, and a seedling - in two years.
Propagation of walnuts by grafting
The walnut is grafted using the budding method, but since the buds of this tree are quite large, the shield cut from the graft and inserted under the bark of the rootstock should also be large so that it can provide the eye with water and nutrients.
The problem is that even in ordinary winters, almost all buds that have taken root by autumn die in the cold due to insufficient winter hardiness of the culture, so budded seedlings must be dug up after leaf fall and stored until spring in the basement at a temperature of about 0 ºC. In spring, when the soil warms up to 10 ºC, seedlings are planted in a nursery. By the end of the growing season, they can reach a height of 100-150 cm, and they can be planted in a permanent place.
walnut diseases
The walnut is quite resistant to both diseases and pests, but mistakes in care and failure to comply with agricultural practices can lead to the tree getting sick. Most often, walnuts are affected by:
bacteriosis, which manifests itself as black spots on the leaves of the plant, because of which they are deformed and fall off. Fruits damaged by the disease lose quality and, as a rule, fall before ripening. Varieties with thick shells suffer less from bacteriosis. Rainy weather and nitrogen fertilizers provoke the development of the disease. To cope with the disease, treat the tree before flowering with copper sulphate, Bordeaux liquid or other fungicide in two stages. In autumn, do not forget to rake and remove fallen walnut leaves from the site;
brown spotting, or marsoniosis, looks like brownish spots, which, with the development of the disease, spread all over the leaf. As a result, diseased foliage dries and falls off prematurely. Fruits affected by spotting, which have not had time to ripen, also fall off. The disease progresses in wet weather. Affected leaves and shoots must be removed from the tree until the disease has spread throughout the nut. Review the moisture regime - you may be watering the nut too often.
Walnut treatment for spotting is carried out with Vectra (2-3 ml per 10 liters of water) and Strobi (4 g per 10 liters of water). The first treatment is carried out as soon as the buds begin to bloom on the tree, the second time the nut is sprayed in the summer;
root cancer affects the root system of the walnut. The causative agent of the disease penetrates the roots through cracks in the bark and wounds, forming convex growths. If the disease goes into full force, the tree may stop growing and fruiting, and in the most severe cases, the walnut will dry out and die. The growths on the tree must be opened, cleaned and treated with a one percent solution of caustic soda, after which it is imperative to wash the wounds with running water from a hose;
Bacterial burn affects leaves, flowers, buds, catkins and walnut shoots. At first, reddish-brown leaves appear on the young leaves of the plant, and depressed black girdle spots appear on the shoots, leading to their death. The leaves and buds of male walnut inflorescences darken and die. The pericarp is also covered with black spots. The most severe outbreaks of the disease are caused by prolonged rains. Infected parts of the plant must be cut and burned, and the wounds treated with a one percent solution of copper sulphate. The plant is sprayed with copper-containing preparations.
walnut pests
Of the walnut pests, the American white butterfly, apple codling moth, walnut warty mite, nut moth and aphid can infect.
American white butterfly- one of the most dangerous insects, damaging almost all fruit crops. During the growing season, it develops in two or three generations: the first generation conducts its destructive activity in July-August, the second - in August and September, and the third - in September and October. Caterpillars of the American butterfly settle on the leaves and shoots of the walnut and rapidly eat all of its foliage.
To destroy the pest, it is necessary to burn the places of accumulation of pupae and caterpillars, and then treat the tree with one of the microbiological preparations - Lepidocide (25 g per 10 l of water), Bitoxibacillin (50 g per 10 l of water) or Dendrobacillin (30 g per 10 l of water) . The consumption of the solution is approximately 2-4 liters per tree. But in no case should it be processed during the flowering period.
Nut warty mite damages mainly young foliage, without touching the fruits, and most often it appears on a walnut during a period of high humidity. It is possible to determine that a nut is occupied by a tick by the dark brown tubercles that appear on the leaves of the plant. Since the tick is an arachnid insect, you can get rid of it with an acaricide - Aktara, Akarin or Kleschevit, for example.
Apple, she is codling moth it does not eat leaves, like other pests, but the fruits of the nut, penetrating inside and eating away the kernel, which is why the fruits fall prematurely. During the growing season, it gives two generations: the first harms the nut in May and June, the second - in August and September. To prevent codling moths from multiplying, pheromone traps are fixed on the trees that attract male codling moths. In addition, be sure to collect fallen nuts and destroy the codling moth nests found on the tree.
nut moth lays "mines" in the leaves of the walnut - its caterpillars feed on the juicy pulp of the leaves from the inside, without damaging the skin. You can determine that a tree is affected by moths by the presence of dark tubercles on the leaves. They destroy the nut moth by treating the tree with Lepidocide, and with a total lesion, pyrethroids are used - Decis, Decametrin.
Aphid ubiquitous, it can harm any plant, but the main danger is that it carries viral diseases for which there is no cure. No point in applying on an aphid occupied walnut folk remedies, immediately resort to drastic measures - processing the tree with Aktellik, Antitlin or Biotlin.
Varieties of walnut
Today, there are many varieties of walnuts that have developed resistance to diseases, pests, frost and drought. Many of them are productive, and their fruits are of high quality. According to the ripening time, the varieties of nuts are divided into early, ripening in late August or early September, mid-ripening, whose fruits ripen from mid to late September, and late, which are removed in late September or early October. Scientists are engaged in the selection of walnuts different countries– varieties of Ukrainian, Russian, Moldovan, American and Belarusian selection are known.
We bring to your attention a description of the best varieties, among which you will surely be able to choose a walnut that will bear fruit in the garden for many decades for you, your children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren.
Skinos
Winter-hardy and productive early variety of Moldavian selection, in years with high air humidity affected by brown spotting. Its fruits are large, up to 12 g in weight, ovoid, with a shell of medium thickness and a large core, easily separated from the shell.
Codrene
A productive and winter-hardy late Moldavian variety, resistant to pests and marsoniosis, with large nuts in a thin, almost smooth shell, which easily splits and releases the whole kernel or halves.
Lunguece
Frost-resistant and resistant to brown spot variety of Moldavian selection with large oblong-oval nuts with a smooth, thin, easily splitting shell and a kernel completely extracted from the shell.
In addition to those described, well-known varieties of walnuts of Moldavian selection include Calarasi, Korzheutsky, Kostyuzhinsky, Chisinau, Peschansky, Rechensky, Kogylnichanu, Kazaku, Brichansky, Faleshtsky, Yargarinsky and others.
Bukovinskiy 1 and Bukovinskiy 2
Mid-season and late productive varieties of Ukrainian breeding, resistant to marsoniosis, with a relatively thin, but strong, easily splitting shell and a completely detachable core.
Carpathian
Stably productive and relatively resistant to brown spot, a late variety of Ukrainian selection with a thin but strong shell and a core that easily separates from it.
Transnistrian
Stable high-yielding mid-season Ukrainian variety, characterized by frost resistance and a high degree of resistance to marsoniosis, with rounded, medium-sized fruits weighing from 11 to 13 g with a thin but strong shell, thin internal partitions that do not interfere with the separation of the kernel.
Of the varieties bred in Ukraine, high quality fruits and resistance to adverse conditions Klyshkivsky, Bukovinskaya bomba, Toporivsky, Chernivtsky 1, Yarivsky and others are also marked.
Of the Californian varieties allocated to a special group, the most famous are:
Black California Walnut
Variety with very large fruits with an almost black shell, furrowed with convolutions;
Santa Rosa Soft Shell
A high-yielding, early-ripening California variety known in two varieties: the first blooms at the same time as all walnut trees, and the second two weeks later, when the spring frosts are behind. The fruits of this variety are of medium size, enclosed in a thin white peel, the core is also white, of excellent taste.
Royal
High-yielding hybrid between California black walnut and Eastern US black walnut, with large fruits in a thick and strong shell, which contains kernels of high palatability.
Paradox
Also a highly productive variety with large fruits in a very thick and strong shell with very tasty kernels.
Breeding work with these varieties has not been stopped - scientists continue to try to get hybrids with a thinner shell.
Of the Soviet and Russian varieties, the most popular are:
- Dessert- an early productive and drought-resistant variety, recommended for cultivation only in the southern regions, with sweetish, very tasty kernels;
- Elegant- drought-resistant, almost not affected by diseases and pests, a variety with medium frost resistance and nuts of a sweetish taste, medium size, weighing up to 12 g;
- Aurora- winter-hardy, disease-resistant mid-season and early-ripening variety, the yield of which increases with age. The average fruit weight is 12 g.
Early maturing varieties of walnuts are allocated to a special category, for which characteristic features are a small height of trees, early ripening of fruits - in the second half of August or early September, entry into fruiting from the age of three and moderate frost resistance. The most famous of the early-growing varieties are:
- Dawn of the East- a low-growing productive tree, successfully grown in the conditions of the middle lane;
- Breeder- productive and resistant to diseases and pests, a variety with low frost resistance. The fruits are medium in size, weighing about 7 g.
The well-known early-growing varieties of walnuts also include Pyatiletka, Beloved Petrosyan, Baikonur, Pinsky, Pelan, Sovkhozny and Pamyat Minov.
The best and most commonly grown varieties are:
- Ideal- high-frost-resistant, the most productive of all walnut varieties, since it bears fruit twice in one growing season. Its fruits reach a mass of 10 to 15 g. The kernels are distinguished by a pleasant sweetish taste. This variety reproduces only generatively, however, its seeds inherit all parental traits;
- Giant- A highly productive variety with regular fruiting. Fruits in their mass reach no more than 10 g, however, the advantage of the variety is that it can be grown almost throughout Russia.
Walnut properties - harm and benefit
Useful properties of walnut
All parts of the plant contain biologically active substances. For example, the bark contains triterpenoids, alkaloids, steroids, tannins, quinones and vitamin C. Walnut leaves contain aldehydes, alkaloids, carotene, tannins, coumarins, flavonoids, anthocyanins, quinones, high aromatic hydrocarbons, phenol carboxylic acids, vitamins C , PP and essential oil. And the tissues of the pericarp include vitamin C, carotene, tannins, coumarins, quinones, phenolcarboxylic and organic acids.
Vitamins C, B1, B2, PP, carotene and quinones were found in green fruits, and in mature fruits the same set of vitamins, sitosterols, quinones, tannins and fatty oils, including linoleic, linolenic, oleic, palmitic acids, fiber, cobalt salts and iron.
The shell of walnuts contains phenolcarboxylic acids, coumarins, tannins, and the thin brown skin covering the fruit - the pellicle - contains steroids, coumarins, tannins and phenolcarboxylic acids.
The amount of vitamin C in the leaves of the plant increases throughout the season and reaches its maximum in July. But the main value of walnut leaves is a large number of carotene and vitamin B1, as well as the dye juglone, which also has a bactericidal effect, and tannins.
Ripe walnut fruits are not only a high-calorie food product, but also a highly active agent. Their calorie content is twice that of premium wheat bread. They are recommended for use for the prevention of atherosclerosis and with a lack of vitamins and salts of iron and cobalt in the body. The oil and fiber that make up the fruit makes it an excellent remedy for constipation.
The wound healing effect of a decoction of walnut leaves is used to treat scrofula and rickets in children. A leaf infusion is used to rinse the mouth with bleeding gums and inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity.
Walnut preparations have a tonic, astringent, anti-sclerotic, antihelminthic, hypoglycemic, hemostatic, anti-inflammatory, laxative and epithelizing effects.
The most valuable of all preparations is walnut oil, which has a high nutritional value and valuable taste. It is prescribed to patients in the recovery period after suffering serious illnesses and surgical operations. It consists of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, macro- and microelements, biologically active substances. The record amount of vitamin E contained in the oil has a beneficial effect on the elderly, especially those who suffer from hypertension, coronary heart disease, atherosclerosis, diabetes, chronic hepatitis, hyperacidity gastric juice, hyperfunction of the thyroid gland. In addition, walnut oil protects the human body from carcinogens, increases the body's resistance to radiation and removes radionuclides.
With the help of walnut oil, tuberculosis, inflammatory diseases of the skin and mucous membranes, cracks, long time non-healing ulcers, eczema, psoriasis, varicose veins and furunculosis.
Scientists at the University of California have experimentally proved that after patients ate walnut oil for a month, the cholesterol content in their blood stopped growing and remained at the same level for several months. Walnut oil is prescribed for chronic arthritis, burns, ulcers, chronic colitis with constipation, diseases of the stomach and intestines. It is recommended for pregnant and lactating mothers.
Walnut - contraindications
The use of walnuts and preparations from it is contraindicated for people with individual intolerance to the product. Patients with psoriasis, neurodermatitis and eczema should use walnut or walnut preparations under the supervision of a doctor, since the product can cause them to exacerbate the disease. People with diseases of the pancreas and intestines, as well as those who have increased blood clotting, eating walnuts is contraindicated. Overeating the product can cause swelling of the throat, severe headaches and inflammation of the tonsils. Daily intake of walnuts for healthy person- 100 g per day.
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