Brussels sprouts growing. Growing Brussels sprouts outdoors. Brussels sprouts: growing and care. Photos of plants in different periods of the growing season

For quite a long time in the vegetable markets, and in most supermarkets, you can observe an unusual type of vegetable. This peculiar and unique vegetable is Brussels sprouts. In count beneficial vitamins contained in it, it is in no way inferior to ordinary white cabbage, and in terms of taste it is in many ways superior to it. In addition, this is a very unusual and beautiful plant, which looks especially unusual during the formation of forks. What is this culture and how to grow Brussels sprouts at home?

General information

In fact, Brussels sprouts are one of the varieties of white cabbage and belong to the species This is a cultivated plant, therefore, it is simply impossible to meet it in the wild. An unusual vegetable was bred in Belgium and named after Brussels farmers.

Cabbage received general recognition first in Western Europe, Canada and the United States. In Russia, however, popularity came to it only in the middle of the 19th century. In our country, it is cultivated in limited quantities in the central regions. This vegetable is so frost-resistant that it gets along in almost any climatic conditions.

Description and appearance of cabbage

This vegetable crop is a biennial plant. Growing Brussels sprouts (how to grow in open field, we will discuss later) in an extremely unusual way. First, a thick stem 30-100 centimeters high grows, in rare cases the stem can reach bigger size. Large green leaves are located throughout the stem. It is also considered normal if dark green spots with a purple tint form on the leaves. A small rosette of leaves forms at the top of the stem. In autumn, small forks of cabbage form near each leaf. The diameter of each reaches from 2 to 5 centimeters. The fruits can be located very rarely, or they can and, conversely, stick around the entire stem. Up to 70 forks can grow on one stem. In the second year of its flowering, the plant does not produce fruits, but forms flowers with small brown seeds. Brussels sprout seeds can remain viable for no more than 5 years. Cabbage is able to withstand frosts down to -10 degrees, which makes it the most frost-resistant among all species. Also this species cabbage is one of the longest growing species. The ripening period lasts from 120 to 180 days, which is why this species is more convenient to grow through seedlings.

How to grow Brussels sprouts from seeds

The very first question that a gardener who decides to grow this crop asks: how and when to plant it? How to grow Brussels sprouts in the garden? The seeds of this plant begin to grow already at a temperature of +2 degrees. It is best to grow seedlings in early April. It is desirable to do this in a heated greenhouse. If this is not available, then a glazed balcony is perfect for this. The most optimal environment for sowing is high humidity, as well as a temperature of +3 or +4 degrees at night. Sprouts begin to appear on the fifth day.

So how do you grow Brussels sprouts from seed? Before sowing, the seeds must be well warmed up in water for 15 minutes. Recommended water temperature - no more than 50 degrees. Then they are dipped in cold water for 1 minute. Next, the seeds are kept for 12 hours in a solution rich in trace elements, then washed in running water and placed in a refrigerator for a day. After that, the seeds should be dried and you can start planting. In order for the seedlings to be strong, you need to sow the seeds at a distance of at least 5 centimeters from each other, and the planting depth should be no more than 2 centimeters. After one true leaf appears on the seedlings, the plants dive, and then transplanted into separate boxes. Further, the seedlings should grow from 35 to 60 days. Then it is transplanted into open ground. Usually, by this time, 4 to 7 leaves grow on each stem. If you're planning to grow Brussels sprouts in your backyard, it's important to properly prepare the soil.

The soil

Cabbage loves cultivated and nutrient-rich soils; in putrefactive soils, seedlings will give poor germination. Exactly therefore, before growing Brussels sprouts in the open field, in the spring before planting, the soil must be fertilized. It is best to use ammonium nitrate or urea for these purposes. The concentration is about 20 g per 1 m. A sunny place is best suited for planting, as cabbage does not like shade. It is recommended to plant plants in two rows, quite far from each other. The best distance between plants is at least 50 cm.

How to care for Brussels sprouts

When considering how to grow Brussels sprouts, it is important to familiarize yourself with the features of care. Two weeks after planting the plants in the beds, it is recommended to carry out the first top dressing with mineral fertilizers. Under one stem, it is recommended to apply 1-2 liters of fertilizer.

The second top dressing is carried out when forks form on the stems. Cabbage must be watered abundantly. This culture needs abundant watering especially during the formation of small forks. In order to prevent pests from attacking the cabbage, it is recommended to sprinkle the ground with ash once a week after loosening. To make the cabbage crop richer, the upper rosettes should be cut off. It is best to do this one and a half months before the harvest ripens. Consider further how to grow Brussels sprouts so that they are not attacked by pests.

  • observe crop rotation;
  • treat seeds before sowing (the method was described above);
  • compliance with all the rules for caring for cabbage.

Harvesting

Cabbage picking is recommended to start in late September or early October. It is not necessary to cut all the forks. The crop is harvested as it ripens. Ripe cabbage has a rich green color and reaches a diameter of 3 centimeters. The mass of one fork can reach from 10 to 15 grams.

There is another way to harvest: the fully ripened forks are cut along with the stem, then placed in wet sand and removed in a dark place. In this form, cabbage can be stored for up to 4 months. Cut forks are best used immediately or frozen. A scientifically proven fact - frozen Brussels sprouts do not lose their nutritional value.

Varieties of cabbage varieties

Considering the technology of how to grow Brussels sprouts, it is worth dwelling on the most popular varieties. They can be divided into three types:

  • early cabbage (Cassio, Dolmik, Rosello (Germany), Franklin, Rudnev, Isabella);
  • mid-season cabbage (Boxer, Perfection (Russia), Hercules, Risen);
  • late cabbage (Gruniger (Germany), Ketskill (USA), Curl).

The harm and benefits of cabbage

Brussels sprouts are a storehouse of beneficial vitamins and minerals. It is rich in B, PP, C, E vitamins, protein, also in huge number contains amino acids and enzymes, folic acid and fiber. By the amount of vitamin C, cabbage is many times ahead of blackcurrant. And riboflavin in it contains exactly as much as in natural cow's milk.

Cabbage is a dietary and hypoallergenic product, so it can be safely given to young children, as well as to the elderly. Due to the high content folic acid the vegetable can also be eaten by expectant mothers. Brussels sprout juice has a diuretic and choleretic effect. It also has anti-inflammatory, expectorant, immunostimulating effects. Cabbage helps fight overweight, enhances intestinal motility, and also relieves heartburn. The prepared cabbage broth is in no way inferior to chicken broth in properties.

Brussels sprouts are not recommended for people with weakened pancreatic function, as there is a high risk of developing hypothyroidism. In people suffering from Crohn's disease, as well as gastrointestinal diseases, cabbage can cause bloating.

Nutritional value of Brussels sprouts

Calorie content of Brussels sprouts - 35 kcal.

The nutritional value per 100 g: proteins - 4.8 g; fats - 0.3 g; carbohydrates - 3.1 g.

The use of cabbage in cooking

Cabbage is prepared quickly and easily. Forks are most often used whole for soups, side dishes and second courses. Vegetables can be boiled, fried, stewed. At the same time, it will not lose its taste properties. The unusual shape and small size of the cabbage give chefs plenty of options for decorating different side dishes and dishes. Of course, it is best and healthier to eat raw cabbage, but if the taste seems unusual, then you can resort to heat treatment or frying.

In order for the color of the forks to remain as bright as when raw, it is recommended to fry it over high heat without covering it with a lid. When choosing cabbage in the store, it is recommended to pay attention to its upper leaves. As a rule, they should be bright green in color, with no dark spots on the leaves and stems. The stem must be light color and clean. If the upper leaves on the cabbage turn yellow, such a product is not recommended to be eaten. It is best to choose cabbage forks of medium size, with a diameter of about 3 cm. They should be dense and shiny, usually these are the most delicious and juicy. Larger sprouts may be bitter.

So, we examined the cultivation of Brussels sprouts, care, varieties. As already mentioned above, with a competent approach to business and strict observance of all instructions, a crop can be planted on your site. The process will not require any large costs, but the result of the work done in the form of a useful harvest will clearly please.

Growing Brussels sprouts from seeds is suitable for people who are patient and unhurried. Although, like all cabbages, it sprouts rather quickly, it grows and develops for a long time - up to 180 days, which is half a year. In the Urals, you cannot grow it simply by sowing seeds in the ground. It is necessary to start sowing in early to mid-March. This cabbage is not only unusual in appearance, but also very useful.

Brussels sprouts contain several times more protein than white or cauliflower. Cabbage contains a lot of minerals, vitamin C, the amount of which does not decrease during storage or processing. Brussels sprouts are on the menu for diet food in diseases of the heart and blood vessels, accelerates the healing of wounds, restores strength after serious illnesses.

Now let's take a closer look,

How to grow Brussels sprouts from seeds

Seed preparation

To grow strong and healthy cabbage plants, you must first take care of the seeds. For the prevention of disease with mucous or vascular bacteriosis, the seeds are kept in water at t 50 ° C for 20-30 minutes, followed by rapid cooling with running water.

In personal household plots for pre-sowing treatment of cabbage seeds, you can use the drug immunocytophyte. 0.3-0.45 g of the drug is taken in 10-15 ml of water. This solution can be used to treat 5 g of seeds.

Please note: in no case can seeds be treated with several preparations at once, you need to choose one, otherwise the sowing qualities of the seeds will decrease.

If you are going to sow a dozen or two cabbage seeds, it is better to “splurge” on high-quality hybrid seeds. They are disinfected from fungal infections by manufacturers, they are sown without disinfection, heating and soaking.

But even the highest quality seeds that give strong, friendly shoots are only the first successes that need to be consolidated with the right agricultural technology. Although Brussels sprouts grow quite well in the Urals and Siberia, since our climate is not very hot. But she also loves good care.

Soil for seedlings

For sowing cabbage seedlings, a planting mixture is prepared from 1 part of good garden soil (it is taken where there are several recent years vegetables from the cruciferous family did not grow - all types of cabbage, radish, radish, daikon) and 2 parts of compost.

You can prepare a seed mixture from 3 parts of humus, 1 part of soil and 1 part of sand. Such a mixture must be disinfected by steaming or freezing.

After disinfection, the soil mixture should be “aged” for two weeks in order to restore microbiological processes. It would be nice to populate it with soil microorganisms by adding vermicompost, Baikal EM-1, Agrovit before sowing.

You can sow the seeds without any hassle in a special soil for growing seedlings, for example, "Agrobalt", " living earth". It has the necessary acidity, it is light, free from weed seeds and pathogens, loose, nutritious.

Sowing and caring for seedlings

Seeds for seedlings are usually sown in boxes with a depth of at least 7 cm. The containers must be washed with hot water, disinfected with soda (10 g per liter of warm water), and dried. Only after that they are poured with soil mixture. A few days before sowing, the soil in the boxes is moistened, and on the day of sowing, it is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. You can use Fitosporin.

Seeds are placed in grooves every 1-1.5 cm, to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Rows are arranged every 3-4 cm. Sprinkle with earth. After sowing, the surface is slightly compacted with a plank, moistened with warm water from a spray bottle and covered with a film to preserve moisture.

At a temperature of 20 degrees, cabbage sprouts already on the 3-5th day. As soon as the first loops appear, the film must be urgently removed and the container transferred to a light windowsill. Emerging shoots, so that the seedlings do not stretch, it is desirable to illuminate.

Daylight hours for cabbage seedlings are extended to 16-18 hours. If it is not possible to provide additional lighting, it is recommended to sow the seeds later - in the second decade of February.

During the week, the temperature of the shoots that appear is lowered to 6-10 degrees. You can take out the seedlings on a glazed loggia or put them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for the night.

But even for older seedlings, the temperature should be limited: in the sun no more than 14-18 ° C, on cloudy days - 12-16 ° C, at night not lower than 8-10 degrees. More heat contributes to the fact that the seedlings are stretched, get sick longer after transplantation, suffer from low temperatures after planting in the garden.

Especially negatively affects the quality of seedlings fever combined with low light.

picking

Seedlings with one true leaf dive into cups (6 × 6 cm) filled with the same nutrient mixture as for sowing seeds. Before transplanting, the seedlings are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, carefully taken by the cotyledon leaves and planted one at a time in a glass. It is important that the roots do not bend when planting (long ones can be pinched). Seedlings are deepened to cotyledon leaves.

After that, the seedlings shade for three days, they try to make the air around them more humid. To do this, it is enough to periodically spray the seedlings with water.

Brussels sprout seedlings in cassettes

Watering and fertilizing seedlings

Cabbage is moisture-loving, but this does not mean that seedlings need to be poured “with their heads”. Cabbage grows well only when its roots "breathe", it cannot stand stagnant water. Plants in waterlogged soil

the roots rot, it is affected by the black leg and dies. But the lack of moisture is also negative for plants: it retards their growth.

Picked seedlings are watered after the soil in the pots dries. It is better to do it in the morning.

Water for irrigation should not be cold. Sharply cooling the soil, cold water reduces the activity of the roots. The leaves at this time continue to evaporate moisture in the same way as before watering (nothing has changed for them). It turns out that after watering with cold water, less moisture begins to flow to the leaves. As a result, seedlings weaken, grow worse, become vulnerable to diseases.
For the same reason, cold watering is also undesirable for adult plants. A week before planting, seedlings stop watering.

When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are fed: 1-2 g of Kemira-lux (or solute) per liter of water. For 4-5 plants, 1 glass of solution is enough. Feed carefully, trying not to get the nutrient solution on the leaves.

The second time the seedlings are fed a week and a half before transplanting into open ground. 2 tsp. urea, potassium sulfate, copper sulfate and boric acid on the tip of a knife are dissolved in a bucket of water. Pre-copper sulfate and boric acid are diluted in hot water.

hardening

Two weeks before transfer to a permanent place, cabbage seedlings begin to adapt to the conditions open air, reducing the temperature to +5 +6 degrees and increasing the intensity of lighting. The easiest way to comply with these conditions is to "relocate" seedlings to a balcony, loggia, veranda, to a greenhouse. At first, so that the seedlings do not suffer from the sun's rays, they cover it with a thin lutrasil.

Prevention of "black leg"

The main thing in the prevention of this seedling disease is not to thicken the crops, do not water the plants with cold water and do not overmoisten the soil.
It is better to immediately remove seedlings affected by the black leg from the seedling box, and so that the disease does not knock down the rest of the plants, temporarily stop watering - let the soil dry out, then spill it with a solution of alirin B (a tablet for 5 liters of water) and potassium permanganate, pour sand, ash or chalk disinfected by calcination to the stems of seedlings.

Transplanting

The key to a healthy harvest is crop rotation.

The best predecessors for cabbage are cucumbers, legumes, onions, root crops.

It is advisable to grow cabbage in the same place no earlier than after 5-6 years. The area reserved for cabbage should be well lit and away from trees. If there is little light, plants stretch, weaken and become vulnerable to disease.

In order to prevent the development of bacteriosis and fungal diseases, avoid the use of nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of summer.
Brussels sprouts grow best in rich, loamy soils. They put compost under it. On poor sandy or heavy soils, this cabbage sprouts form diseased, overgrown. Fresh manure also negatively affects the yield.

The optimal temperature for the development of Brussels sprouts is 15-18 degrees. At 25 degrees and above, the formation of cabbage heads is delayed, their quality is reduced. In order for cabbage to develop as long as possible without heat, 40-50-day-old seedlings should be planted early - along with early varieties of white cabbage. With later planting dates, the yield of Brussels sprouts decreases, the quality deteriorates.
When planting seedlings, keep the distance between rows - 70 cm, 60 cm - between neighboring plants.


Brussels sprouts grow for a long time - you can sow lettuce with it, flowers for seedlings (here are zinnias)

top dressing

Brussels sprouts love urea and potassium chloride. Foliar top dressing is best done with boric acid, molybdenum and potassium permanganate.
At the very beginning of the formation of cabbage heads, cabbage is fed with infusion of bird droppings (1:15), adding a glass of ash to 10 liters of solution.
Mineral fertilizers are applied:
- in the rosette phase - 2 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride per 10 liters of water, spending 0.5 liters per plant,
- during the intensive formation of heads - 4 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride, or 20 g of solute, agricola per 10 liters of water (one liter per plant). On sandy soils, additional magnesium fertilizers are added - 5 g per 10 liters of water.

Care

To speed up the ripening of cabbage heads, to increase their weight, pinch the tops of the shoots at the end of the growing season - approximately when the stem grows to 60-70 cm. A month before harvesting, you can also cut the rosette leaves.
Brussels sprouts, unlike white and others, are lightly spudded so that the lower sprouts do not rot.

Pest protection

Preventive measures to protect cabbage from pests consist in the destruction of wintering pests. Given that most of them winter in top layer soils and pathogens of many diseases remain on plant debris and in the soil. Deep digging of the soil in autumn will significantly reduce the infectious stock and destroy the bulk of wintering pests.

In the spring, first of all, get rid of cruciferous weeds (colza, yarushka, shepherd's purse, etc.) on the site, on which cruciferous fleas, bugs and other insects feed, waking up after wintering.

You can reduce the harmfulness of the cabbage fly:

  1. planting seedlings early,
  2. if the soil within a radius of 4-5 cm from the plant is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with freshly slaked lime or ash (1: 1).

Various insect-entomophagous insects (ladybugs, lacewings, riders, etc.) are capable of limiting the number of aphids, caterpillars, whites. To attract entomophages on the site, it is useful to sow nectarifers: anise, fennel, dill, phacelia.

It is useful when carrots and onions bloom on the site. Scoop caterpillars pupate in shelters close to cabbage beds, so you can lay out small bundles of dry grass between rows, into which caterpillars readily climb. Periodically, the bundles are collected and burned.

We should not forget that disease-resistant plants are less damaged by pests when they are provided with good care, regular watering, fertilizing, weeds are destroyed in a timely manner, etc.


Harvesting

In September-October, when the leaves on the plants begin to turn yellow and fall off, and the cabbage heads acquire a specific sheen, the crop can be harvested.

  • The stem is cut down at the level of the soil, the leaves are cut off and sent for storage in a cool place.
  • Brussels sprouts, harvested with the stem, can be stored for about two months if packaged in plastic bags.
  • Heads of cabbage cut from the stem quickly wither.
  • Frozen Brussels sprouts will keep for 3-4 months.

If the cabbage is pulled out of the garden, preserving the root system, and then dug in a frost-free room in moist soil, then the use of Brussels sprouts can be extended: at + 3-5 degrees due to reserves nutrients new sprouts grow in the stem and leaves.

When Brussels sprouts form sprouts, they can withstand frost down to minus 7 degrees. So you can not rush to harvest this crop in the fall.

Varieties

Varieties have received special distribution and popularity among modern summer residents:

Rosella

Productive mid-season variety, grows up to 50 sprouts per plant. The plant is tall - sprouts are large, quite dense, good taste. They ripen together.

Variety Rosella

Dallick

Mid-late productive hybrid with high resistance to keel.

casio

It is also a mid-season and high-yielding variety - up to 60 heads of cabbage on each specimen.

Hercules

Late-ripening, disease-resistant common domestic variety. Not very dense medium cabbages of elongated shape.

Variety Hercules

Garnet bracelet

Mid-season hybrid of domestic selection. With a bright purple color and delicious sprouts, the plant grows up to 40 pieces with a total weight of 500 grams.

Sort Garnet bracelet

I wish you success in growing Brussels sprouts!

Growing Brussels sprouts in the open field is gradually gaining popularity among Russian gardeners, which is not surprising: after all, this vegetable combines the original appearance, spicy taste and rich vitamin and mineral composition. At the same time, in order to get a decent harvest, you don’t have to do much trickery, because. caring for a crop is no more difficult than for other types of cabbage.

Brussels sprouts are among the biennial garden crops: in the first year the plant actively develops, forming a powerful root system, and produces a crop, and the next year it blooms and bears fruit in the form of small pods with seeds that remain viable for 5-6 years .

This variety of cabbage has a number of characteristic features that distinguish it from other representatives of the cruciferous family:

  • vertical way of growth;
  • thick cylindrical trunk from 20 to 100 cm high;
  • strongly branched long-petiolate apex;
  • spoon-shaped leaves up to 40 cm long;
  • small rounded heads of cabbage with a diameter of 3 to 7 cm.

In appearance, cabbage heads resemble ordinary white forks in miniature. They form in the axils of the leaves, at the ends of underdeveloped short stems. From one plant they can be obtained from 20 to 90 pieces, each weighing 8–20 grams.

Brussels sprouts are not found in the wild because they its appearance is the result of artificial selection, bred by Belgian gardeners in the middle of the 18th century from an ancient variety of kale.

Useful properties of small-headed vegetables

Brussels sprouts - valuable dietary product, which, having a very modest calorie content (30–50 kcal per 100 grams), contains many useful substances for the body:

  • sugar - 4.2–5.6%;
  • starch - 0.4–0.8%;
  • dietary fiber, incl. pectin - 1.1–1.8%;
  • crude protein - 3.1–5.7%.

Also in this cabbage is a huge concentration of free amino acids and enzymes.

In addition, its complex biochemical composition includes a whole set of various vitamins and minerals in the form of salts:

It is recommended to regularly consume a small amount of heads of cabbage not only as a source of nutrients, but also as a health remedy, because. they have a wide range of medicinal properties:


Brussels sprouts are especially indicated during the rehabilitation period for people who have undergone surgical intervention, because it provides rapid hematopoiesis and tissue regeneration.

Brussels sprout varieties

At the moment, small cabbage is a fairly popular crop, so not only traditional, but also more modern breeding options are available to gardeners:

Also, varieties of Brussels sprouts, of which there are more than 300 species in total, differ in their growing season:

Early ripe - less than 140 days

  • Casio is a high-yielding (up to 70 heads per plant) Czech hybrid, characterized by a special trunk height (more than 1 meter) and the ability to endure low temperatures;
  • Rosella is a popular variety of German selection, the main value of which is the simultaneous achievement of maturity by all fruits at once;
  • Pomegranate bracelet is a medium-yielding, but very beautiful hybrid of purple-red color, which, after heat treatment, acquires a sweetish taste;
  • Franklin - yields small dark green sprouts, which is especially convenient when frozen;
  • Dolmik is the most undemanding Dutch variety with a low stem (up to 50 cm) in terms of soil and weather conditions;
  • Isabella - distinguished by its decorative properties - small purple cabbage heads form a similarity of the grape bunch of the same name.

Mid-season - 140–160 days


Late ripening - more than 160 days

  • Curl - a hybrid of Czech selection, having a tall stem (more than 90 cm) with many large (weighing 15–17 grams and up to 5 cm in diameter) heads of cabbage;
  • Boxer is a cold-resistant hybrid practically not subject to insect attacks;
  • Gruniger is a frost-resistant variety with greenish-orange very dense heads, which, with a small size (up to 4 cm), can reach a weight of 18–20 grams.

The division of Brussels sprouts into three groups of ripening is very conditional, because. its definition of precocity is not included in the standard framework of other vegetable crops. In fact, there is no early variety of this cruciferous representative.

Choosing the right variety of Brussels sprouts is essential to a bountiful harvest. For example, taking into account regional climatic conditions, for the Moscow region and the rest of the central part of Russia, you can choose mid-ripening and late options, and in the Urals and Siberia, you should give preference to earlier hybrids with a minimum ripening period, because. the soil in these parts warms up much more slowly.

Growing cabbage in natural conditions

Before starting cultivation, it is necessary to carefully process the planting material:

  • soak dry seeds in hot water (about 50ºC) for 15–20 minutes;
  • cool them for 1 minute and move them into a saturated solution of trace elements for 12 hours;
  • rinse in clean water and leave overnight in the bottom of the refrigerator.

After that, you can start sowing. If the seeds are not going to be used immediately, then they should be dried well and put in an airtight container for further storage.

Getting seedlings

For the cultivation of Brussels sprouts, the seedling method is most often used, because. 120–180 days pass from sowing seeds to the first harvest, and there may not be so many warm days for planting directly in open ground.

  • the optimal time for planting seeds is the period from March 18 to April 12;
  • suitable containers - paper cups, peat pots or a common wooden box;
  • laying individual seeds - at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other and to a depth of 1-2 cm;
  • temperature regime - before the first shoots (3-4 days) - 18-20°C, after - 15-18°C;
  • watering - as needed (the soil should always be slightly moist).

At the stage of formation, seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, they are picked and, if necessary, the central root is shortened. At the same stage, each plant must be transplanted into an individual container (if they initially grew together).

After picking, the soil is fertilized with a special solution (per 10 liters of water):

  • superphosphate - 40 g;
  • potassium sulfate - 10 g;
  • ammonium nitrate - 20 g.

After two weeks, the grown seedlings can be fed with a more concentrated mixture, increasing the initial proportions by 1.5 times.

The transfer of mature seedlings to a permanent place of residence is carried out (provided that the root system is sufficiently developed) in late May-early June. Two weeks before this period, they must begin to be hardened so that in the future they do not die from a sharp change in weather conditions. To do this, the plants are taken out daily to a cool place (open loggia, balcony, terrace, window sill), gradually increasing the time they spend in the fresh air up to 24 hours.

Transplanting plants in open ground

Brussels sprouts grow best in brightly sunlit areas with fertile loamy soil and a pH of 6.5-7.5.

The selected site has been prepared since autumn: it is dug up well 40–50 cm deep and, if necessary, alkalized with lime. Six months later, in the spring, the earth is saturated with nutrients, using humus or compost (at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m2), and a dry mineral mixture is poured into each well:

  • urea - 1 tsp;
  • superphosphate - 2 tbsp;
  • wood ash - 2 tbsp.

Growing Brussels sprouts in a place where any other representatives of the cruciferous previously grew is allowed only after 4 years, because. all types of cabbage have similar diseases and pests, which entails a high risk of cross-contamination. You should also avoid "inheritance" of beds after turnips, radishes, tomatoes, beets, daikon and turnips. Potatoes, cucumbers, onions, carrots, zucchini, colza and all varieties of legumes are considered good neighbors.

A week before the appointed time, the seedlings stop watering, and their next watering occurs only on the day of planting on the garden.

Planting Brussels sprouts outdoors:

  1. Dig the required number of holes according to the scheme 60 × 60 cm;
  2. Place in them a soil mixture consisting of peat, turf, mineral fertilizers and wood ash;
  3. Place seedlings on top (without damaging the root system) along with part of the ground in which they grew;
  4. Gently cover them with a layer of earth, leaving green leaves on the surface;
  5. Lightly compact the surface layer of the soil and water.

It is advisable to perform all these manipulations after sunset or in cloudy weather, when there are no direct sunlight.

Seedless sowing method

If climatic conditions allow, you can try growing Brussels sprouts directly from seeds. For this, early-ripening varieties are chosen. Sowing is done in mid-late April, when it is already warm enough. Seeds are planted in groups of 3–6 pieces and covered with 2.5–3 cm of soil. Additionally, you can insulate the intended germination sites with homemade cones from plastic bottles.

After the appearance of the first sprouts, it is necessary to thin them out, leaving only the strongest plants. After 10-12 days, thinning is again performed, after which only one most viable seedling should remain in each hole. Further cultivation of established plants does not differ from the seedling method.

Watering and garden care

Brussels sprouts have one distinguishing feature in care: it does not require hilling. Otherwise, its cultivation is no different from any other cabbage.

7 days after planting the shoots, it is necessary to make the first top dressing with nitroammophos (0.5 tsp for each bed). Next, it will be necessary to make another 2–4 infusions of organic or mineral solutions with an interval of 1.5–2 weeks.

The second serious top dressing is required for the plant at the initial stage of the formation of heads of cabbage. For this, a special solution is prepared (per 10 liters of water):

  • superphosphate - 25 g;
  • potassium sulfate - 25 g;
  • nitroammophoska - 5 g.

Water irrigation is carried out regularly: the earth should always be in a slightly moistened state. Water consumption at one time is approximately 350 l/10 m2. With the advent of the first ovaries, the norm increases to 400-450 liters.

It is important to loosen the soil after each watering or rain, because. lack of oxygen can lead to the death of even an already formed mature stem.

Brussels sprout pests and diseases

Despite the unpretentiousness and stability of this culture, it does not tolerate neglect of itself: insufficient care threatens to damage the plant with various diseases and insects.

The problem can arise at any stage of cabbage development, therefore, in order to prevent the loss of a significant part of the crop, it should be regularly inspected for any signs of illness:


The development of most diseases and pest attacks on Brussels sprouts can be easily prevented if preventive measures are taken in a timely manner:

  • competently disinfect the seeds before planting;
  • restore the acid-base balance of the soil (in an acidic environment, pathogenic microorganisms develop more actively);
  • regularly loosen the earth;
  • take into account the rules of the neighborhood of vegetable crops;
  • thoroughly clean the garden plot from the remains of previous plants;
  • dig the soil after harvesting to a depth of at least half a meter.

If the problem nevertheless arose, then in the early stages you can still try to eliminate it with non-toxic (low-toxic) means:

  • butterflies and larvae - ash with naphthalene, Proteus;
  • aphid - a solution of wood ash, an infusion of chamomile and thyme;
  • fleas - boric acid, a decoction of wormwood;
  • fungi - baking soda, Trichodermin, Fundazol, Maxim;
  • Medvedka - soapy water, oil, kerosene, Medvedtoks.

If insects or diseases have damaged a small part of the greenery, then it must be cut off; if a larger area is damaged, the cabbage will have to be removed completely. After a serious infection (Kila, some types of viruses), it is undesirable to plant any similar plants on the entire site for 4–5 years.

Harvest and storage

Heads can be harvested all at once or gradually, harvesting as it ripens, starting from the bottom, which will allow the top fruits to fully gain volume and density. Massively they are plucked after the fall of the axillary leaves. On average, this process takes from 3 to 4 months, counting from the date of planting in open ground.

For long-term storage, heads of cabbage are cut together with stalk, while leaving the outer layer of leaves and protective raid. In this form, they do not deteriorate for a long time:

  • in a cool place - 0.5–1 month;
  • in the refrigerator - 1.5–2 months;
  • in the freezer - 6-12 months.

You can also store the crop by cutting down the entire plant with the stem. The remaining sprouts will be preserved in this form for about 3 months. This is not as cumbersome as it might seem at first glance: if you cut off all the leaves and fold the resulting blanks close to each other, then up to 30 pieces can be placed per 1 m2.

The shelf life will increase even more if the trunk is carefully dug up with the root and placed in the ground in the basement. This will keep the heads fresh and crisp for 4 to 6 months.

Small-headed vegetables are still a rarity in domestic garden plots, but given all their advantages, the widespread cultivation of Brussels sprouts in the open field is only a matter of time. Its frost resistance is ideal not only for planting in Russian climatic conditions, but also for long-term storage, which makes it possible to ensure the supply of vitamins to the body even in winter, when other sources of valuable nutrients are no longer available.

To date, Brussels sprouts are grown mostly in an area with moderate summer temperatures and warm, long autumn periods. It is these conditions that correspond to the biological characteristics of this vegetable crop and contribute to a good harvest.

Brussels sprouts are a biennial herbaceous crop. Plant height varies from 20 to 60 centimeters.

At the stage of growing seedlings of Brussels sprouts, the plant forms a stem part with long-leaved, spreading, entire leaves.

At the next stage of cultivation in the leaf axils, large buds are formed - cabbage heads with round shape. Their mass rarely exceeds 15 grams, and the total yield from each properly grown plant can be 500 grams.

Brussels sprouts are considered a cold-resistant plant and are quite tolerant of short-term frosts down to -6ºС. Tying and high-quality filling of fruits requires an optimal temperature background - at the level of 18ºС. At rates above 25ºС, growth and fruit formation slow down. In connection with the climatic preferences of Brussels sprouts in the country, it should be grown in open-air beds.

Landing methods

Growing a quality crop of Brussels sprouts allows you to properly plant and care for this vegetable crop.

Sowing seeds is carried out in the last days of March or at the very beginning of April. High-quality seedlings are obtained when grown on a glazed balcony or in a heated greenhouse, which helps to ensure the optimal temperature level.

Temperatures at night should range from 6 to 8 degrees Celsius, and in the daytime the temperature should be about 20 degrees. Pre-emergence temperature environment need to be maintained at 2 degrees Celsius.

The first seedlings appear on the fourth day. Peat-humus planting pots are suitable for planting.

Seedlings need regular watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. It is necessary to carry out airing of the room where seedlings are grown. The picking is carried out one and a half months after sowing the seeds.

Cultivation is carried out on loamy, rich in organic matter and deeply cultivated soils. You should carefully observe the agricultural practices for growing Brussels sprouts, including the mandatory care and feeding measures.

How to grow Brussels sprouts (video)

Features of the care and feeding of cabbage in the garden

  • The cultivation of Brussels sprouts should be accompanied by the necessary soil preparation measures from autumn. It is necessary to vigorously loosen and dig the soil, and then apply the required amount of organic and mineral fertilizers.
  • The autumn application of superphosphate, potash fertilizer, manure or peat compost has a very good effect on the growth and health of cultivated Brussels sprouts and contributes to a large crop of large and even heads of cabbage.
  • Before spring planting, it is required to loosen the soil again and enrich the soil for planting with urea.
  • The formation of planting beds is most conveniently performed after abundant soil moisture.
  • If it was not possible to carry out high-quality fertilizer of the earth during the autumn preparation, then fertilizers can be applied to the holes dug for planting cabbage seedlings.
  • When grown in open ground, the ridges are formed by the beginning of May, and the holes are arranged according to the pattern of 50 x 50 centimeters.

  • Brussels sprouts are vegetable crops with a long growing season, which reaches five months, and it will be justified to plant more early-ripening crops in the aisle, which will already form a crop before the fruiting of the cabbage.
  • For dressings that are made no more than once a week, it makes sense to use fertilizers that have the same percentage of phosphorus and nitrogen in their composition.
  • Caring for Brussels sprouts includes regular watering.
  • This variety of cabbage has a fairly high shoot and needs hilling activities to provide support to the stem.
  • In order for the root system to receive the air necessary for full development, soil loosening should be periodically carried out.
  • If necessary, weeding is carried out, without which the care of any plant is considered inferior.
  • We should not forget about the need to pinch the stem top or remove the rosette of the top one and a half months before harvesting.

Diseases and pests

Among the common diseases of the culture, the following can be distinguished:

  • blackleg;
  • cabbage keel;
  • mucous bacteriosis;
  • downy mildew.

Of the pests to be wary of:

  • cruciferous fleas;
  • cabbage flies;
  • snails and slugs;
  • cabbage scoops and whites.

Therapeutic and preventive measures are similar to the methods of control that are effective against pests for other cabbage crops. At the initial stage of a disease or lesion, as well as for prophylactic purposes, folk herbal remedies can be used.

It is not only the implementation of all measures for high-quality pre-sowing soil preparation and the use of disinfectants after harvesting that help to protect plants, but also the observance of crop rotation in the beds.

Brussels sprouts can be grown after green manure, carrots, potatoes, onions, legumes, cereals, and cucumbers. It is forbidden to plant a crop on ridges where cabbage, beets, tomatoes, turnips, radishes or radishes were previously grown. You can return Brussels sprouts to an already used bed no earlier than four years later. Compliance with this rule will insure the plant against damage by a significant part of the pests and diseases common to all cabbage crops.

Harvesting and storage rules

Harvesting of the mature crop is carried out in a selective mode and begins in mid-September. At the very beginning, the lower cabbage heads ripen and are subject to breaking out. The final cleaning is carried out in early November, after the steady cold sets in.

Planting seedlings of Brussels sprouts in open ground (video)

Stems with ripe inflorescences separated from the root system can be stored in a cool room for about three months. Separate cabbage heads are subject to immediate processing or freezing.

Brussels sprouts, like any other crop, have their own characteristics of cultivation. By following them, you will get a wonderful vitamin harvest.

Brussels sprouts look very unusual, and they require special attention. In addition, the taste is not quite familiar - a little bitter. And therefore not much spoiled by the attention of gardeners. But in vain. After all, this is a real delicacy.

Try planting this amazing vegetable in your garden. Growing Brussels sprouts is a very exciting and interesting process. In addition, you can pamper your household with new unusual and very healthy meals.

From this article you will learn

Features of growing Brussels sprouts

How does it grow? Not every gardener knows how Brussels sprouts grow. Unlike its relative - white-headed - it grows up. And it can even reach 1 m in height! Such a giant.

At first, when the plant is just emerging and starting to grow, it looks like white cabbage- in the seedling phase for beginner summer residents, they are like twin brothers. However, then her stem and leaves begin to grow. This crop has a thick stem and long leaves. Heads of cabbage are tied and grow in the axils of these leaves. They range in size from 2 cm to 5 cm.

You can see the stages of growth in our photo.

They tightly stick around the stem, outwardly the plant is very beautiful - it resembles a miniature outlandish palm tree. Thanks to this feature, the vegetable can also be used as an ornamental crop for a vegetable bed.

Flowering cabbage occurs only in the second year. It blooms with yellow inconspicuous inflorescences. The seeds are in pods. They are brown and very small. As a rule, germinate for 4-5 years. This crop has a very long growing season. Heads of cabbage ripen, as a rule, for 120-180 days.

Which variety to choose? There are many varieties of Brussels sprouts. And since its popularity is growing from year to year, scientists are constantly deducing new ones. In general, they are divided into

  • early. Heads of cabbage ripen in about 120 days. This species includes the following varieties: Franklin, Dolmik, Pomegranate Bracelet;
  • mid-season. Vegetables ripen for 140-160 days. Pay attention to the varieties: Perfection, Boxer, Pomegranate, Merry Company;
  • late-ripening. Cabbage ripens in 180 days. The most popular varieties are Curl and Gruniger.

Fact! Brussels sprouts are a hardy crop. It can withstand temperatures down to -10°C.

Where to plant, choose a place

This outlandish-looking cabbage is very demanding on the choice of place and growing conditions. However, it is not difficult to satisfy all her whims. We will tell you how to grow Brussels sprouts in the country.

Rule 1

Plant only on fertile, rich in humus and humus soil. She does not like heavy clay soil in the garden. By the way, experts cite the following facts: in just 1 season, from 1 acre of land, a vegetable takes out almost 2 kg of nitrogen, the same amount of calcium and half a kilogram of phosphorus. The numbers are very impressive. Accordingly, do not expect a harvest on poor and infertile soil.

However, you should not use fresh manure at all stages of growth. As a result, you will only get a bunch of greens, and there will not even be any head tying.

Advice! Prepare the land for vegetables in the fall. When you dig, be sure to put rotted manure or compost (5-6 kg per 1 sq.m), as well as mineral fertilizers (2 tablespoons of potassium chloride, the same amount of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, instead of the latter, you can add 1 glass of ash).

Rule 2

The place for cabbage should be sunny and open, always protected from the wind. She loves the southern and southeastern areas.

Rule 3

Choose the right predecessors. Vegetables are best planted after potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or carrots.

Planting scheme, how to plant seedlings

We plant seeds. In general, this cabbage ripens very late. That is why it is cultivated only through seedlings. It is very important to choose the right sowing time so that the sprouts have time to start.

If desired, you can soak the seeds for 12 hours in a solution of trace elements or humate. It is only necessary to dry the seeds before planting. You need to sow the seeds in boxes not too deep - about 1.5 cm. You can sow in peat tablets. From above you need to cover with glass or polyethylene.

It is also desirable to sow the seeds at a small distance from each other - 3-4 cm. They germinate at a temperature of + 20 ° C for 4-5 days. Further growth of seedlings should take place at a temperature of + 16 ° С ... + 18 ° С during the day and + 6 ° С ... + 8 ° С at night. Otherwise, it may stretch.

We care. Care is easy:

  • water often (but do not flood!), make sure that the soil is always wet;
  • if you sowed sprouts in a large container, the seedlings need to dive. To do this, carefully remove it along with a clod of earth (before that, the plants need to be shed), slightly shorten the central root and plant it in a new container, slightly deepening. Then water a little;
  • as soon as the seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, they need to be fed with such a mixture: dissolve 20 g of ammonium nitrate in a large bucket of water, be sure to add 40 g of superphosphate, as well as 10 g of potassium sulfate. Mix everything well. Repeat this feeding after 10-14 days.

Before planting sprouts in open ground, they should definitely be hardened. Remember that young seedlings should already have several true leaves, preferably 4-6. They should look healthy and strong, not stretched out.

Landing scheme. You need to plant sprouts far enough apart from each other. Choose a planting pattern of 70 cm X 70 cm. If you plant seedlings closer, this will affect the harvest, experienced gardeners say, since the vegetable will receive less light, and the heads will be smaller and not as tasty.

First you need to dig small holes. They need to put mineral fertilizers: 1 teaspoon of calcium nitrate, the same amount of superphosphate. You also need to add 500 g of humus and 50 g of wood ash. Experienced summer residents advise planting seedlings, as if deepening it slightly. You can check the correctness of the procedure as follows: the lower leaves should be at the level of the soil.

Advice! Remember that outlandish cabbage grows magnificently and gives an excellent harvest only at low temperatures of + 15 ° С ... + 18 °.

Feeding and watering

How to care for cabbage? Caring for Brussels sprouts outdoors is easy. It needs to be watered and fertilized regularly. You also need to pinch the plants.

How often to water? This culture is very fond of watering. It should be watered especially intensively in the phase when leaves grow intensively and sprouts begin to form. You should take from 10 to 14 liters of water per 1 sq. landing meter. If the weather is rainy, the volume and frequency of watering should be reduced.

Remember that after watering the earth must be loosened to an average depth. You can mulch - so the plantings will remain wet longer. If you see that the bush is holding rather unstable, you can spud it with earth - just rake it up to the stem.

What to feed Brussels sprouts? This vegetable is very capricious in terms of feeding. Therefore, you need to fertilize often. This will only increase productivity. The first time you need to fertilize 2 weeks after you planted the seedlings in open ground. In this case, the vegetable needs nitrogen supplements, because it is very actively gaining green mass.

Prepare such a "lure": take 10 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium chloride and 15 g of ammonium nitrate. Dissolve all this in 10 liters of water.

The second top dressing should be carried out in the phase of formation of 15-20 leaves, when the sprouts are just beginning to tie. Now they need a completely different "lunch". In 10 liters of water you need to dissolve: 6 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride.

For the second top dressing, you can use organic matter. Suitable slurry (1:4), mullein (1:6), bird droppings(1:10). Under each plant you need to pour at least 1.5 liters of the prepared mixture.

Do you need to puddle? It is not necessary to carry out special hilling, as, for example, white cabbage. This should be done only if the earth is loose and the stalk itself grows rather unstable. In this case, you just need to tease. And if necessary, install a support.

Topping

To speed up the ripening of this outlandish vegetable, such an agricultural technique as pinching, or, as gardeners also call it, topping, will help. There is nothing difficult in this procedure. Do everything step by step.

  1. As soon as the lowest heads of cabbage grow up to 1.5 cm in diameter (in different regions - these are their own terms, for example, in the central region - this is the end of August), then it is necessary to remove (pinch, as they say in another way) the very top of the vegetable. You must remove the growth point. You can also remove a few leaves from the topmost rosette.
  2. A month and a half later, you can completely cut off the top of those plants on which heads of cabbage are very poorly tied.

Advice! Before pinching the seedlings, it is advisable to feed them useful infusion. To prepare it, you need to take a bucket of water and 30 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Everything needs to be mixed well. Water 1.5 liters under each bush. In this case, the heads will be denser.

Ripening terms

The peculiarity of this cabbage is that it ripens unevenly, like other types of cabbage. Therefore, it is removed in stages. First, the lower ones sing, then higher ones, which are located in the middle part of the plant, and the top ones can be removed last.

To determine ripeness, pay attention to the appearance: sprouts should be dense to the touch, shiny in appearance, up to 3 cm in diameter. Approximate ripening dates: early ones can be harvested in September, mid-season - late September-early October, and later late October-early November.

As a rule, cabbage of early varieties is harvested in one go. Other species - a few. First of all, the lower heads of cabbage are collected, which are at least 2 cm in diameter. Later - heads of cabbage on the middle part of the stem, and then on top. Many gardeners are wondering if it is necessary to cut off the leaves on a vegetable, experts do not advise doing this, thus they will help the cabbage to protect itself from frost in the fall.

Diseases and pests of Brussels sprouts


Question answer

Why won't Brussels sprouts tie?

There may be several reasons for this

Reason 1. Poor quality change. It happens that a seed plant interbreeds with its cruciferous counterparts. The result is a hybrid that does not tie heads of cabbage.

Reason 2. You overfed the plant with nitrogen. Everything has gone green. It is possible that you, on the contrary, did not feed him at all, or your land is very poor.

Reason 3. There is intense heat. This cabbage does not like this weather very much.

Reason 4. You forgot to pinch the top.

Reason 5. You are not watering the plant well.

The cabbage went into color, what should I do?

If your cabbage has bloomed, there may be several reasons. First, it is hot and dry. Usually this weather is in July. In this case, cabbage should be watered and shaded frequently.

Secondly, it is possible that you overfed the plants with organic matter. In this case, you need to stop feeding altogether.

Thirdly, you may have overgrown seedlings. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the timing of landing. If the Brussels sprouts are blooming, cut off the flowering parts, shade, water more often.

Should Brussels sprouts have their leaves removed?

Many people ask the question: “When to pick leaves on cabbage. And is it necessary to do so? Experienced summer residents do not advise doing this. They can only be cut off if you want to keep the cabbage in the cellar. To do this, they dig it up along with the roots, break out the leaves (except for the apical ones) and dig them in the sand.

Why do leaves curl?

  • Insufficient watering and heat.
  • Pest damage (aphids and whiteflies).
  • The plant may lack minerals or, conversely, there may be an excess of them.
  • You can simply burn the plants if the proportions are not correct when preparing herbicides or fertilizers.

Why don't heads form?

This culture is rather capricious in care and cultivation requirements. She does not like heat and dryness, when she is overfed or underfed. In this case, heads may not form. And don't forget to pinch the top.

IMPORTANT! * when copying article materials, be sure to indicate