Haircut scheme- this is a technical drawing reflecting in the projection onto a plane:

• the surface of the head and its division into zones;
• partings with which the haircut is performed;
• angles of the guy (lift) of the strands;
• cut line and haircut shape;
• the procedure for performing a haircut (performance technology);
• applied tools.

The scheme is shown in profile and full face. Sometimes a projection of the back of the head is needed. With asymmetrical haircuts, they show a diagram in profile on the right and left. When changing the corners of the pile, there is a need for spatial drawings, otherwise these changes cannot be shown in the projection on the plane. On fig. 5.23 shows fragments of various haircut patterns.

Rice. 5.23. Fragments of various haircut schemes:
scheme a: 1 - partings (horizontal and vertical); 2 - reversal of the control strand; 3 - visible on Zz and invisible on Tz the plane of the strands, as well as the Urol of the rise (braces) of the strand; 4 - haircut line;
scheme b: 1 - the control strand (KP) is sheared with a tie angle of 0 °; 2 - CP reversal; 3 - the plane of the strand visible in profile; 4 - cut line, jagged cut; 5 - vertical partings; 6 - tools used to perform a haircut;
I-II - cutting sequence

During the operation of removing on the fingers, the following methods of cutting are used:

• strand on strand (overlay method, fixed control strand method, PnP);
• strand by strand (movable control strand method, PzP);
• step cutting method;
• free hand method.

strand by strand method it is mainly used when cutting massive shapes or when cutting in contrast to create a massive shape. In this case, each subsequent strand is cut by superimposing on the control (KP). As a rule, the angle of elevation of the strands is 0 °, and the cut line is strictly parallel to the parting with which the strands are distinguished. When cutting with this method, you can use closed and open cuts, pointing, pointing, which are performed from the inside of the palm. On fig. 5.24, a shows a scheme for performing a haircut using the PnP method. The partings are horizontal, the plane of the strand is not visible in profile. Draw angle 0°. The cut line is horizontal. The cut is straight, closed.

strand by strand method used for plastic haircuts. In this case, each subsequent strand is cut according to the previous one, which is its control. The accuracy of the haircut depends on the thickness of the strand. As a rule, most often the angle of elevation of the strands is 90 °, the setting of the hands can be parallel and non-parallel. Straight cut, pointing, poinkat are performed from the inside and outside of the palm. I

The scheme of cutting by the PZP method is shown in fig. 5.24b:

1. uniform haircut Tz. The diagram shows and shows the pull angle of the strand (90°). The plane of the strand is not visible;
2. example of a haircut Zz. The strand is visible as a plane, but the turn of the strand around the head is not visible.

Rice. 5.24. Fragment of the haircut scheme:
a - strand by strand method; b - strand by strand method; KP - control strand; I - II - cutting sequence

Stepped shearing method used to create a graduated shape. With this method, each subsequent strand is cut with an increase in the angle of the guy. It is believed that the method is performed by horizontal parting. The draw angle of the first control strand can be 0° and can be increased up to 90° when cutting subsequent strands.

Each next strand is slightly shorter than the previous one, which allows you to change the volume and silhouette of the haircut. Straight cut, pointing and point cut are performed from the inside of the palm.

On fig. 5.25 shows a fragment of a stepwise shearing scheme. Partitions are horizontal. The plane of the strand is not visible. The pull angle of the strand gradually increases.

Rice. 5.25. Fragment of the scheme for performing a stepped haircut

Free hand method used when cutting with a razor or when performing a sliding cut (slicing).

STATE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION

SECONDARY VOCATIONAL EDUCATION

"ASTRAKHAN STATE COLLEGE OF PROFESSIONAL TECHNOLOGIES"

COURSE PROJECT

BY THEME: "MODERN METHODS OF HAIR CUTTING"

Completed: student of group 3-10 PI

Osipova E.P.

Head: Nazarova R.V.

ASTRAKHAN 2005

Introduction

Section 1. Theoretical part

1.1 General information about cutting hair

1.2 Modern methods and hair cutting techniques

1.2.1 Modern methods of thinning with scissors

1.2.2 Thinning with a razor

1.2.3 Modern methods of hair treatment

1.2.4 Modern cutting techniques

1.3 Factors influencing the choice of haircut

Section 2. Technological part

2.1 Tools, equipment, devices used in the performance of modern model haircuts

2.1.1 General information

2.1.2 Combs

2.1.3 Scissors

2.1.4 Razors

2.1.5 Hairdressing equipment

2.2 Modern haircut technology

2.2.1 Haircut with styling and color from CiroApicella

2.2.2 Style for every day

2.2.3 Grotesque

2.2.4 Haircut with zigzag bangs

2.2.5 Sports haircut

Conclusion

Bibliography

Introduction

Hairdressing is one of the oldest types of human activity, which is primarily aimed at improving (decorating) his appearance. The development and improvement of hairdressing is closely related to the evolution of human society, changing living conditions, and raising the level of general culture. In each era, paying tribute to fashion, masters of hairdressing created new forms, lines and decorative elements of hairstyles.

The history of hairstyles and haircuts in Russia is diverse. But for the most part, the Slavic peoples from ancient times wore long hair and beards, women wore braids. Under the influence of the Normans, they began to switch to semi-long hair, beards began to be shaved, leaving only mustaches.

With the spread of Christianity, long beards, trimmed in the shape of a spade, reappear. The most common haircut among the male population Ancient Russia from small to large was "under the pot."

From the VIII century, as a result of the Tatar invasion, the Russian people began to imitate and cut their hair according to the Eastern custom, even to shave their heads baldly.

Under Ivan the Terrible, shaving the beard and head was prohibited by law. Departure from the law under Boris Godunov was one of the reasons for the people's dislike for him.

In 1675, Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich issued a decree - "do not adopt foreign customs, do not shave the hair on your head, do not wear foreign dresses." Most of the population during this period used the services of itinerant barbers. After Peter's reforms, the soldiers wore their hair to their shoulders, combed it up and parted it.

Under the reign of Peter I, women finally ceased to be recluses and were able to attend balls and assemblies. Thus, large-volume hairstyles made of thick curls and decorated with expensive jewelry entered Russian fashion.

Over time, Russia nevertheless developed its own style, which was dictated by the originality of Russian nature. Gradually, the hairstyles of the ladies became less and less pretentious, more modest, which has always distinguished the women of Russia.

The old Russian hairstyle "under the pot" was preserved only among the peasants and the Old Believers. Wealthy people wore wigs. The first special fashion magazines appeared that recommended how to care for your appearance.

After the war of 1812, the French captives changed their uniforms to barbers' dresses. The French were a resounding success. Noble princes ordered real hairdressers from Paris.

The transition from feudalism to capitalism changed everything. Public transport has made its own adjustments to clothing and hairstyle. The nature of hairstyles by 1900 is changing in connection with the changes taking place in public life end of the century. Fashion is becoming more international business style, expressed in the simplicity and rationality of hairstyles.

In 1914, the Russian Haircut appeared. First short women's haircut, which introduced such a gentle charm into the appearance of Russian women. In the same year, the first World War, which involved 38 states in hostilities. Short hair has given a new impetus to hairdressers. They began to be laid using cold styling (undulation) or hot tongs. It was at least some "progress".

In 1915, a closed forehead came into fashion. They began to cover it with a bang, a hat or a ribbon.

Gradually, a geometric haircut-hairstyle, which is in perfect harmony with clothes, comes into fashion. Short hair is often worn on a straight cut, oblique with short temples. Preference is given to straight smooth hair with straight bangs and at the same time very bright lips.

From 1922 to 1929 - collectivization, trade unions, the Komsomol, a pioneer organization appear, bread cards are introduced. Along with these events, a simple haircut is firmly fixed throughout the country. Pioneers, orphans, typhoid patients, Komsomol members, military men, convicts, prisoners, men and women alike, all have their hair cut.

Only by the end of the 1930s did a fairly wide network of hairdressing salons appear in Russia, providing the population with a wide range of services. Along with foxtrot haircuts that were fashionable at that time, women's hairdressers successfully performed complex hairstyles using hot tongs. A long perm (permanent) was also popular. On the short hair ah, it was carried out by the horizontal method, on long ones - by the vertical one.

In 1936, new rules were developed. Of great importance was the decision to assign categories to masters depending on their qualifications and to introduce the title of “master of hairdressing”. The first salons open, the masters begin to work with electric clippers. By the 40s, thermal perm had firmly entered the arsenal of women's hairdresser's services. The hair curled steeply above the forehead, the side zones rose up, all the hair was removed into the net.

During the Great Patriotic War hairstyles are made from the floor long hair, the ends of which curl inward. Hairstyles with short haircuts, as well as with braids, are preserved. The hairstyles of the post-war years were basically the same as during the war years, but with some changes.

In the late 50s, a hairstyle came from Germany, called the "Bell" because of its silhouette. With this hairstyle, the color of the hair becomes completely trendy colors: color bronze, platinum, copper.

Having crossed the middle of the 20th century, hairdressing is steadily rising from its knees once again. Films and illustrated magazines have a strong influence on the work of hairdressers in Russia.

From the mid-60s, young people began to let their hair down, which caused discontent among the older generation. Imitating the Liverpool Four - the Beatles ensemble - the youth changed for a long time appearance. Haircuts such as "Finnish boy", "Swedish boy" belong to this period. In the late 60s, men began to curl their hair with a perm. Hairstyles began to combine several elements - a haircut, curls, soft waves. A hairstyle with a “stepped” haircut, a “Parisian head”, hairstyles with a long bang that covers the forehead and eyebrows is spreading.

In the mid-70s, the “Sessun” haircut came to Russia, proposed by V. Sessun, an English hairdresser. It was the discovery of the century in haircut technology. A new word (concept) has appeared in the lexicon of hairdressers - a model haircut, and along with it the cost of the service is increasing.

Along with the classics during this period, first in large, and then in small cities of Russia, punks appeared with their pretentious appearance, behavior, their vision of the world and themselves in it. Against this background, haircuts like "hedgehog" and women's "cascade", "Aurora", proposed by hairdresser D. Kondrashova, appear.

1980, the year of the Olympics-80. Hairdressers different countries create male and female models with names consonant with this holiday: "Sports", "Olympic", "Olympia".

1981 - Sessoon introduces the bob haircut, the first of a series of geometric haircuts. The haircut was warmly received and received recognition in many countries. This haircut will be worn until the end of the century. However, in most of the fashion of the eighties, they are generally distinguished by long hair, a free silhouette.

Men's haircuts are sporty and elegant. At the end of the 80s, there is a nostalgia for the shapes and silhouettes of hairstyles of the first half of the 20th century. Many hairstyles are made on the basis of a perm. Hairstyles were complemented by false hair - curls and pigtails.

In the early 90s, the hairstyle as such fades into the background. Her haircut came to me. In this period, there is a sharp division of hairdressing art into high fashion and everyday, ordinary. Everything that the leading fashion designers create at world-class professional skill competitions, the people in their mass do not accept.

1992 - the Russian team takes part in the World Cup in Japan, where it takes seventh place.

1993 - the beauty festival "Intercharm" is held.

1994 - in London, at the World Championships in 1996 in Washington, the Russians are already in third place.

In 1998, in Seoul, the Russian team won first place.

The main thing for an ordinary client was a haircut and a modest styling.

In March 1998, the first Moscow Championship in hairdressing and decorative cosmetics took place. In the same year, for the first time in Russia, the Moscow Union of Hairdressers was created.

A hundred years ago, hairdresser Andreev glorified Russia, today the pride of the country is Irina Baranova and other famous master artists, recognizable and loved by the younger generation of hairdressers.

The name of Sergei Zverev shines especially brightly in the last decade of the 20th century among specialists in hairdressing.

A haircut is not only a creative, but also a complex technological process. However, before talking about shearing operations and complex techniques, it is necessary to introduce some of the simpler concepts.

Haircut shape- this is the three-dimensional volume that the hairstyle occupies in space. Forsh can be correlated with geometric bodies: a ball, a cylinder, a cone, etc.

Haircut comes in four forms:

• monolithic (massive) - for example, a classic square. All hair is cut along any one line;
• graduated - with this form, the hair on the lower occipital zone is shorter, and on the parietal and upper occipital zones it is longer;
• cascade (progressive) - the hair of the parietal zone is shorter than on the temporal and occipital zones;
• uniform - the length of the hair throughout the head is the same, repeats the shape of the head.

Haircut silhouette- this is the outer contour of the hairstyle that determines its shape. We can say that the silhouette is a projection on the plane of the shape of the hairstyle. For example, the silhouette of a massive shape is close to a square or a trapezoid, a graduated shape in a silhouette is an extended oval, a cascading shape in a silhouette is an elongated oval, and a uniform shape is a circle.

Haircut structure is the distribution of hair length in different zones. For example, when cutting a square, the hair of the lower occipital zone is the shortest, and in the upper part their length increases. In a natural fall, all hairs are on the same level.

Control strand (KP)- this is a strand, focusing on the length of which the next strand is cut. The angles of the guy or combing of the strands are considered in relation to the surface of the head.

Rice. 5.9. Parallel setting of fingers when cutting

Shearing line is set by the position of the fingers, which, when cut in relation to the partings, can be either parallel (Fig. 5.9) or non-parallel (Fig. 5.10). The cutting line is often defined in relation to the horizon:

• horizontal - parallel to the horizon;
• vertical - perpendicular to the horizon;
• diagonal - at any angle to the horizon.

Rice. 5.10. Non-parallel placement of fingers on the cut

As a rule, all these haircut lines require fingers to be placed parallel to the parting. Shearing lines are also classified as concave or convex.

Cutting angle- this is the angle between the plane of the strand and the fingers when the fingers are not parallel.

Draw angle(lift of the strand) is the angle between the surface of the head (the tangent plane at a given point) and the plane of the strand.

Backing angle- this is the angle that forms the direction of combing the hair into strands in relation to the parting. Speaking about the angle of the back, they often mean the father to the face or to the back of the head.

Cut types. The section of the cut hair depends on the position of the fingers in relation to the strand and on how the blades of the scissors are located in relation to the plane of the strand. This, in turn, affects the appearance of the haircut, the ease or difficulty in styling the hair.

Rice. 5.11. Straight cut:
a - hair section with a straight cut; b - setting fingers with a straight cut

Slice called direct if the section of the hair is round (Fig. 5.11, a). In this case, the blades of the scissors are located perpendicular to the plane of the strand, and the strand is drawn, as a rule, at an angle of 90 ° to the surface of the head (Fig. 5.11, b). The cut can be made both from the inside and from the outside of the palm.

Slice called sharp if the resulting section of the hair is oval (Fig. 5.12, a). The blades of the scissors are located at an angle to the plane of the strand (Fig. 5.12, b). A similar cut can be obtained with a razor if its sting is located at a large angle to the plane of the strand.

Rice. 5.12. Sharp cut:
a - hair section with a sharp cut; b - setting fingers with a sharp cut

oval the section of the hair is also obtained with the so-called internal or external cut.

An internal cut is obtained by turning the strand when cutting away from you. As a result, we get a section of a strand in which the inner layer of hair is shorter than the outer one. This allows the hair to lie down when styling.

The outer cut is obtained by turning the strand when making the cut on itself. As a result, we get a section of a strand in which the inner layer of hair is longer than the outer one. This allows the hair to lie up when styling.

Rice. 5.13. Hair section with sliding cut slicing

sliding cut slicing gives a very long oval in the cross section of the hair (Fig. 5.13). A sliding cut is obtained with straight scissors without notches or a razor. To perform a sliding cut with scissors, a strand of hair is grabbed between the first and second fingers of the left hand, pulled back, the half-open blades of scissors are inserted into the strand and the scissors are easily advanced from the root to the ends of the hair. Do not close the blades of the scissors or move them, otherwise the strand will be cut off.

Serrated cut pointing used for simultaneous shortening of hair and thinning (Fig. 5.14). With such a cut, the hair seems to be combed into each other. In this case, the haircut looks very neat, “hair to hair”. Perform with straight scissors. The strand is combed off, pulled off at the same angle as when cutting, and the ends of the scissors make a cut in the form of a fringe.

Rice. 5.14. Serrated cut pointing

In this case, it is convenient to turn the hand with the back of the hand towards you. The cutting depth of the scissors is from 0.5 to 3 - 4 cm.

Point cut poinkat used in very precise geometric haircuts with simultaneous thinning. In this case, the cut is made with the tips of the scissors, which are located almost perpendicular to the strand. Cutting depth 1 - 2 mm. This type of cut is very laborious, it takes a lot of time to cut, but the hair lies very well. Such haircuts are especially magnificent with a monolithic form.

In the process of performing a haircut, several operations can be distinguished, differing in the methods of work and the tools used:

• reduction "to nothing";
• shading;
• transfer;
• thinning;
• edging;
• withdrawal on the fingers.

Reducing "to nothing"- a smooth, gradual change in the length of the hair from the longest in the central zones (Tz, V3z) to the shortest in the peripheral areas (Vz, N3z) along the edge of their growth (reduction zone).

This operation can be performed with any cutting tool. The most common way is with a machine with or without nozzles. But with one machine, changing nozzles, you cannot get a smooth and beautiful transition in the length of the hair. The machine performs only roughing, for the final study requires painstaking work with scissors. Before performing the operation, it is necessary to clearly imagine the style and shape of the future haircut. The height of the information zone depends on the length of the hair on the parietal zone. Suppose the length of the hair on Tz is large enough (6 - 8 cm), then the convergence zone will be very small, 1 - 2 cm on the neck and, maybe, on the temples (Fig. 5.15, a). If the length of the hair on Tz is small (3 - 5 cm), then the height of the convergence zone increases, and it can be drawn parallel to the CLRV (Fig. 5.15, b). With sufficiently short (1 - 2 cm) hair on Tz, the height of the convergence zone can reach the temporal and occipital protuberances or even the crown (Fig. 5.15, c).

Rice. 5.15. Zeroing zone and cutting shape:
a - with hair length on Tz 6 - 8 cm; b - with a hair length of Tz 3 - 5 cm; c - with hair length on Tz 1 - 2 cm

Bringing hair "to nothing" with a machine can be done in two ways - without a comb and with a comb. We must not forget that the work of the machine is performed only on dry hair.

The first method (without a comb) is performed with or without nozzles. The bottom plate of the machine should be pressed against the skin only with the heel, and the teeth should be directed upwards at an angle of 10 - 20 °. The sharper the transition in the length of the hair is needed, the greater should be the angle between the teeth and the surface of the head. The machine moves smoothly up against hair growth; first, the heel is pressed tightly against the skin, and then the teeth of the machine are gradually brought up. On parallel sections on the right and left, you should carefully monitor the movements of the machine so that the hair has the same length.

The second method (with a comb) is that a comb is placed under the heel of the machine and the hair is cut along the plane of the comb, which moves against hair growth. The machine blade moves perpendicular to the direction of hair growth. The cut hair is combed out by moving the comb down. The comb is held in the left hand in the fourth and fifth ways (see subsection 2.1). If it is necessary to create a smooth transition in the length of the hair, the teeth of the comb are brought out at a slight angle to the surface of the head, and the butt is pressed tightly against the skin. The quality of the haircut largely depends on the uniform and coordinated advancement of the comb and clipper. The clipper or comb must not be allowed to run ahead of each other, otherwise there will be snags or steps.

In any case, after processing the hair with a machine, it is necessary to finalize the haircut with scissors. This operation is the most painstaking and complex, requiring the skill and patience of the master. It is important to hold the comb and scissors properly to get the right cut. Control the movements of the scissor blades - only the top blade should work. When working with two canvases, hair from above and below the strands enter the cut zone; as a result, the shortest hair is obtained in its middle, which immediately affects the quality of the haircut and its laboriousness, since the work requires constant correction. The movements of the comb should be fast, clear, smooth and consistent with the work of the scissors. Comb Moves when cutting against hair growth, moving gradually from the CLRV up and then down, combing the freshly cut hair. The scissors move along with the comb, the working blades are parallel to the plane of the comb. The blades of the scissors can be directed both to the left and to the right (for example, when processing the right side of the back of the head or the right behind the ear). You can work with the tips of the canvases or the entire plane. To facilitate this operation and create a smoother transition, one-sided thinning scissors are often used.

You can perform the reduction "to nothing" and with the help of a straight razor. Before this, the hair must be thoroughly wetted so as not to harm the scales when cut.

Tushevka- the operation of obtaining a smooth transition from short to long hair. This operation is similar to “nulling” hair, but requires more careful execution. Even the slightest violation of the smooth transition from long hair to short hair will lead to characteristic steps appearing in some areas, which indicate poor-quality shading. The latter is performed with simple scissors, the thin ends of which manage to perform the operation very accurately. When shading with scissors, the master holds a comb in his left hand, with which he systematically combs the hair in the direction of the planned hairstyle, and scissors are in his right hand. After combing out the next strand of hair, the ends of which are cut at an obtuse angle, the next strand is combed out. Thus, the master goes from short hair (at the base of the neck) to long hair (at the crown). The scissors are in motion all the time. The greater the transition from short to long hair, the more spectacular it looks, but also the more difficult it is to perform.

perekidka- this is an auxiliary operation used when nullifying and shading. Hair longer than 0.5-1 cm is inconvenient to cut with the shading technique. To facilitate the subsequent haircut, a strand of hair is picked up with half-open scissors, thrown over the teeth of the comb and cut to the desired length. The comb is held in the left hand with the teeth up, the cut hair is combed out, the comb moves down. Having thus removed the excess length over the entire area of ​​​​the hairline, they begin to nullify or shade.

thinning- this is a smooth, gradual change in the length of the hair from the longest in the central zones (Tz, V3z) to the shortest in the peripheral areas (Vz, N3z) along the edge of their growth. Thinning emphasizes the texture of the haircut, lightens the ends of the hair, emphasizes the shape.

In hairdressing practice, the following types of thinning are used: basal, along the entire length of the strand, at the ends of the hair.

Basal thinning is used to thin out thick and heavy hair in order to create additional volume. This type of work is done:

• simple scissors by plucking (or cutting). The depth of thinning is 2 - 3 cm from the root. To do this, a strand 1–3 cm thick is isolated, combed off and pulled at an angle of 90 ° to the surface of the head. The ends of the scissors, directed perpendicular to the strand, randomly perform point cuts of individual hairs at different levels, creating, as it were, an “undercoat”;
• thinning scissors with one or two blades (Fig. 5.16). The depth of thinning is also 2 - 3 cm from the root. Scissors are inserted into the strand and make one cut. In this case, the blades of the scissors are located at an angle of 45° to the plane of the strand.

Rice. 5.16. Plunge thinning

Thinning along the entire length of the strand gives the haircut plasticity, texture, thins out thick heavy hair and facilitates the styling process. It can also be used to correct the face. For example, using thinning along the entire length of the strand, a round face is corrected if the client prefers long hair, and the volume of the face is not needed. This type of thinning is performed:

• with simple scissors using the cutting method, while cutting the hair at different levels along the entire length of the strand and moving the scissors from the roots to the ends of the hair. You can apply a sliding cut. For example, when processing facial strands, it is used after twisting the strand into a bundle;
• thinning scissors cut the strand along the entire length, introducing scissors at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the root. Perform cuts, moving towards the end of the strand. The blade of the scissors is at an angle of approximately 45° to the plane of the strand. Depending on the length and density of the strand, you need to make 5 to 8 cuts. The dimensions of the strand are the same as when cutting: the thickness is not more than 1 cm, the width is 3 - 5 cm. After cutting, it is necessary to comb out the cut hair and only after that cut the next strand. Such thinning is performed throughout the hairline or in its individual sections;
• straight or thinning razor.

In the latter case, such thinning is performed by various methods:

• the hair is combed in a natural fall. A strand of hair is grabbed and held by the ends with your fingers. The razor smoothly glides through the hair from the middle of the strand and 1/3 of its length (sliding method);
• hair is divided into zones in accordance with the haircut line. The razor is carried out with cutting movements towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. Apply on short hair in the event that the hairstyle requires a snug fit of the hair to the head (scrape method);
• a strand of hair is combed perpendicular to the head and profiled on one or the other side of the strand. In this case, it must be borne in mind that if the strand is worked out from the outside, then the hair lies up when styling, but if the inner side of the strand is worked out, then the hair will lie down when styling (thinning method);
• allocate a strand of hair in the form of a square. Comb off perpendicular to the head. The razor moves from the ends of the strand to its roots, imitating a pile. This method is quite hard on the hair (combing method). At the slightest discomfort of the client, it is recommended to immediately change the thinning method;
• a strand of hair is isolated in the form of a square, twisted into a bundle, and thinning is performed with scraping movements towards the end of the strand (twisted strand scraping method).

Thinning at the ends of the strand gives the haircut texture, lightness, allows you to get the softness of the contour of the strand. Performed:

• simple scissors using various techniques, such as cutting to a depth of 1-3 cm from the end of the strand, a sawtooth cut to the same depth, or a sliding cut;
• thinning scissors, which are inserted into the strand at a distance of 1 - 3 cm from the end of the strand and cut.

edging- this is most often the final haircut operation, in which the final contour is given to the hair, limiting it along the entire edge of hair growth or in certain areas of the hairline. With the help of edging, the haircut is given a silhouette. In the process of shearing, it is performed with any cutting tool simultaneously with other operations.

There are the following types of edging: bangs edging; temple edging; neck edging.

The fringing of the bangs is done with simple scissors with a straight, sawtooth or dotted cut. You can trim with a razor with a blunt cut or in the form of a fringe. The shape of the bangs can correct the forehead or the shape of the face. Horizontal lines expand the face, oblique lines divert attention from a heavy chin or lengthen the face (Fig. 5.17).

Rice. 5.17. Bangs edging shapes:
a - straight line; b - oblique; c - concave; g - convex; d - triangular; e - fantasy

The bangs stand out from the natural parting in the form of a triangle with the top on the parting and the base on the temporal recesses to hide the bald patches, if any. The thicker the bangs, the farther along the parting is the top of the triangle.

The edging of the temples is also performed with straight scissors (but can be made in the form of a fringe) and thinning scissors, a razor or a typewriter (shaving the temples in men's haircuts). The choice of the shape of the temple depends on the shape of the nose, chin and, if necessary, corrects them. For example, a straight or oblique temple suits a person with a snub or regular nose. But an oblique temple is not recommended for a long nose or a hump. In this case, as a rule, the so-called "Hungarian" temple is recommended.

The edging of the temples begins on the left side, since it is more inconvenient during work, therefore, the right side is easier to equate to the left. When cutting, you can focus on the lobes or trestle of the ears, chin or corners of the mouth, etc.

The forms of edging of male temples are shown in fig. 5.18.

Rice. 5.18. Forms of edging of male temples:
a - straight (suitable for hard dark hair in classic haircuts); b - an elongated straight line (can correct a full face); c - shortened straight line (above the marginal hairline, suitable for sports haircuts); g - straight rounded (suitable for curly hair); d - oblique; e - elongated oblique; g - shortened oblique; h - "Hungarian" (corrects a nose with a hump)

The forms of edging of women's temples are shown in fig. 5.19.

Rice. 5.19. Forms of edging female temples:
a - straight line; b - oblique; c - "pace" (not suitable for curly hair)

Neck edging is done with any cutting tool. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the growth of hair on the neck and the shape of the marginal line. With improper growth, curls, vortices, these hairs can be cut by placing the blade of scissors flat and close to the skin. It is not recommended to trim these hairs on women's necks. When edging with straight scissors, you need to press the hair to be cut with the fingers of your left hand or the back of the comb and cut it.

The shape of the edging can correct the perception of the shape of the neck. Remember that horizontal lines create an expansion effect, while vertical lines lengthen.

When edging the neck in men's haircuts, the preferences of clients become obvious from work experience. Most often, men prefer the neck to visually appear wider, and at the same time they do not like rounded neck corners.

The forms of neck edging for men are shown in fig. 5.20. The edging starts from the left temple, goes to the behind the ear, then the right temple, the other behind the ear, and only after that the neck is edged. Performing edging with scissors, the haircut line is led from one cervical corner to another; when cutting with a machine, the edging is performed from the middle of the neck to the left and right.

Rice. 5.20. Forms of neck edging for men:
a - bracket of various configurations; b - "in a pigtail"; c - curly (according to hair growth)

The edging with a razor is performed in the same sequence, only in this case you need to slightly pull the skin up with your left hand. When working on the left, the razor is held in the second stroke.

The forms of neck edging in women are shown in fig. 5.21. When edging the neck in women, it is imperative to take into account hair growth and neck correction. If the hair on the neck at the marginal hairline sticks out in different directions, they should be carefully trimmed with the tips of the scissors, while one sheet is pressed flat against the skin. The subsequent haircut and edging should cover up this lack of hair growth.

Rice. 5.21. Forms of neck edging for women:
a - straight line; b - concave; in - semicircular; g - "in a pigtail"; e - bracket of various configurations; e - fantasy

The female neck should not visually look short and wide. At the same time, if in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra and below there is a seal due to osteochondrosis, the back of the head should not be made thin, as this will only emphasize such a disadvantage. Pigtail edging is performed with appropriate hair growth; with another hair growth option, a beautiful shape will not work. Under the same conditions, curly edging is performed. I

If the client has long or medium length hair, the edging is done on the fingers. It must be remembered that the angle of elevation of the strands in such cases is 0 °.

Remember the main rules of edging:

• the strand should always be combed perpendicular to the intended edging line (Fig. 5.22);
• you can not raise the edging line above the marginal hairline.

Finger removal is a haircut operation in which the hair is shortened on the entire head or on its individual sections. It is often the main operation in which the entire haircut is performed.

It is necessary to firmly master the techniques by which removal on the fingers is performed:

• with a comb, a strand of hair no more than 0.5-1 cm thick is isolated (the thinner the strand, the more accurate the haircut!). Each subsequent strand is cut, focusing on the length of the hair of the previous strand, so the thickness of the strand affects the accuracy of the haircut;
• the strand is carefully combed, grabbed at the base between the second and third fingers of the left hand and pulled, observing the required angle of the strand. At the same time, the fingers slide along the plane of the strand, stopping at the desired length;
• the comb is transferred to left hand, pinching it between the first and second fingers;
• perform a cut at a distance of no more than 1 cm from the fingers (otherwise the accuracy of the cut line is lost). But you can not make a cut close to the fingers, so as not to damage them.

For convenience and depending on the technology, you can select strands with various partings. In this case, the appropriate setting of the left hand holding the strand is selected. Fingers can point up or down; the cut can be performed both from the inside and from the outside of the palm.

For cutting hair, scissors, a machine, a comb are used. When cutting, the clipper and comb are set against hair growth. The order of the haircut resembles the order of shaving the head, that is, they cut sequentially strip by strip. The width of the strip corresponds to the width of the fixed plate of the machine or to a certain grip of the hair by the teeth of the comb.

Students usually get very tired hands, especially the right. To avoid this, you need to train for a long time and hard, systematically performing exercises for the fingers.

When cutting with a clipper or scissors with a comb, you should hold the comb in your left hand (on the narrow side of the back with your thumb, and on the side of the teeth - with your index and ring fingers). When cutting with scissors over a comb, skillful use of the comb is required, since it is constantly in operation and performs many operations with it. In this case thumb lies on the edge of the comb, and the forefinger lies on the teeth. The remaining fingers hold the comb.

It is essential for students to be able to distinguish haircuts and be able to define them.

You can cut "naked" with a machine of any size, while the hair is completely removed from the head.

Bring "to nothing"- means to make a smooth, imperceptible haircut from very short hair to longer hair (Fig. 19).

Rice. 19. Flattening hair with a machine. a - without a comb; b - lined combs

"Tushovka" always accompanies a haircut "to no". This is the same operation, but with shading a thin beautiful transition is achieved from the neck to the parietal part of the head.

There is also a special technique for cutting hair "to nothing" - "smoky transition". It is distinguished by exceptional filigree work, a thin and skillful line of hair transition, reminiscent of spreading smoke (Fig. 20).

Rice. 20. "Smoky transition"

If the haircut is done poorly and the master was not able to properly bring the hair "to nothing", "stairs" are formed.

"Edging"- the most common term for trimming the edge lines of the hair when cutting.

thinning used for thinning hair. It is performed with special tools - thinning scissors or a thinning razor. Haircut "on the fingers" is used in the design of the crown. The hair with a comb is captured by a strand between the fingers so that part of the previous strip is in it. Cut hair over fingers. Such a haircut requires special precision and calculation.

Area- this term is used for haircuts "beaver" and "square". This is a brush-like flat area of ​​hair that resembles a platform.

"Grinding"- the final operation for many haircuts, when a final finish is needed.

Consider the practical implementation of some processes.

When brushing hair the machine is installed at the edge of hair growth in the middle of the neck (behind the head). This process is carried out on weight, therefore, to give stability to the machine, with the index or middle fingers of the left hand, hold the left edge of the lower fixed comb of the machine.

Shading begins with the capture of rarely growing hair on the neck. As you move on to cutting thicker hair, you need to gradually retract the teeth of the machine towards you. The longer the hair, the steeper the machine deviates. At the same time, the comb is held in the left hand, pressing it with the thumb to the palm. As needed, it is brought into working position.

After shading the captured strip, the master must comb the cut hair with a comb “from the bottom. If the strip is worked out well and evenly, without “ladders”, the master proceeds to shading the next strip frame, gradually moving to the left side of the head.

Correct shading is an almost imperceptible transition from the neck to the parietal part of the head. Moreover, a strict sequence and gradualness of the length of the hair left is observed: if at the very beginning, in the lower part of the neck, the skin shines through the short-cropped hair, then the higher to the crown, the longer the hair and the gaps are less visible.

If the strip is cut unevenly, then the shading is repeated a second and even a third time. In these cases, areas of poorly shaded hair are combed with a comb, picking up the missing hair on the teeth, and cut them from above with a machine at the level of the previously cut ones.

A well-made shading can smooth out many defects in the shape of the head. Clients with a very elongated head or an irregularly shaped head with a noticeable bump at the back of the head should leave their hair longer, for which the shading is done with scissors. When determining the height of the head, the shape of the client's neck, the size and shape of the ears, the size of the occiput and other structural features of the head, as well as the shape of the haircut are taken into account. If the haircut is short in front and behind, then the shading is made high, which evens out the bulges of the head. If the client asks to leave the hair long, the shading is usually done below the occiput. Medium length hair is stewed to the occiput or the middle of the ear shell.

The beauty and cleanliness of the carcass largely depends on the number of the machine. Blonde hair it is recommended to shade with machine No. 2, then with machines No. 1 and No. 000. Very rare light and dark hair is more convenient to shade with scissors, and hair of medium density, first with machine No. 1, and then No. 000.

In the case when the hair on the neck grows from the bottom up, you should cut them against the growth. The final stage neck shading is done only by machine No. 000, regardless of the method of initial processing.

Stubbing with scissors also starts from the center of the neck, the master takes the scissors with the first hold and sets them on top of the comb. They grab the hair at the edge of their growth and cut it with scissors over the comb, then slowly move the comb up, cutting off all the hair above the comb with frequent movements of the scissors.

Hair growing above the neck is thicker and longer. As the comb enters thicker hair, its position must be changed. The head of the comb must be moved away from the neck, and in this position, moving upwards, make a shading on the head. Moreover, the longer and thicker the hair, the farther away from the skin is the comb, until the hair captured by it is freed from the comb. The shading must be repeated until the desired result is achieved. If the shape of the haircut provides for long hair, then the shading is done low from the neck.

In order to shade the lowest hair on the neck as short as possible, you need to take a comb with thinner teeth. You need to shade the neck with the ends of the scissors, and the comb is laid to stop. The scissors must not be held parallel to the comb, because this interferes with the work and, moreover, stairs are inevitable, since the comb will slip out from under the scissors. Scissors in this case should be held somewhat obliquely with respect to the comb. With the ends of the scissors directed at an angle away from themselves, they cut the hair of the right side of the neck of the mastoid process and the left temple, and the right temple and the left side of the neck to the mastoid process - with the ends of the scissors directed to the left, parallel to the comb. On other parts of the head (except the right side of the neck, the left temple and the mastoid region), the hair is cut with scissors with a comb, directed parallel to each other.

In conclusion of this section, we want to draw the attention of future masters to the fact that cutting hair with scissors under a comb is a responsible and complex detail in the haircut process.

Working with scissors with a comb and a clipper with a comb is not an easy process. It is necessary to develop the correct position of the body - do not bend your arms and legs, do not lean low towards the client's head. You need to work out the correct and coordinated movement of scissors and combs on a blank without a wig. Then you can move on to training on the wig. Good practical skills for developing stable movements when cutting are also given by training work with scissors and a comb on weight.

edging is made after shading each side of the head, and the scissors are held with the screw head outward.

The edging line runs from one temple behind the ear along the neck to the other temple. The rate of hair trimming at the temple can be straight, oblique, semicircular, short or elongated. When choosing a form, you need to take into account the desire of the visitor.

When edging the hair behind the ears, all the hair behind auricle comb down. Scissors are set according to hair growth from top to bottom (from the auricle to the back of the head). There is a second option, when the scissors are set at the level of the left earlobe from the bottom up along the marginal hairline with the screw slot towards you. The ends of the scissors cut the hair along the line of their natural growth, forming an oval shape. Only those hairs that go over hair-free skin should be cut. In no case should you grab the hair beyond the beginning of their growth. Holding the scissors with the fingers of the left hand, move them to the mastoid process. Having passed this section, they remove the left hand from the scissors and bend the auricle with it, continuing the edging towards the temple (Fig. 21). When edging the left temple, the master stands in front of the visitor on the left and, holding the scissors with his left hand (so that the line is more even), cuts the hair along a horizontal or inclined line (depending on the shape). The hair of the temple must be cut all at once, that is, with one stroke of the scissors.

With short temples, the edging along the horizontal line is done at the level of the eye line. When choosing an undercut line, you can focus on the convex bone of the temple (the hair is cut slightly above this bone).

Sideburns and sideburns are called straight elongated whiskey. Tanks have short hair cut close to the skin. Sideburns have longer and usually fluffier hair. Tanks are edged along a horizontal line up to the corners of the lips, and with oblique temples, their corners fall below the cuts of the eyes. Oblique temples are edged with one oblique or oblique line, creating an acute angle.

Straight temples are edged with two lines - horizontal, at a right angle, and vertical, passing near the auricle to its upper rounding.

The right temple is edged in the same way as the left. The difference is that the master moves to the right side of the chair. The level of edging, the shape and length of the right and left temples should be exactly the same.

After the temple edging line has been developed, it is connected to the behind-the-ear edging line and, moving the scissors down to the neck, they begin to edging the neck at the level of the earlobe or slightly lower. The edging of the neck starts from the middle of the neck, first to the left ear, then to the right.

If the hair grows from the middle of the neck to the sides, then you need to edging from the ears and the middle of the neck. When making the neck, the client's head should be in the usual natural position.

Haircut "on the fingers" perform on the crown after the haircut, shading and edging are completed *.

* (If the hairstyle requires combing the hair back, they are not cut "on the fingers", but coolly extinguished.)

The correct grip of a strand of hair, its thickness, uniform cutting depends on how correctly the strand is combed and pulled up and forward.

When cutting "on the fingers" the master is behind the client and combs all the hair forward on the forehead. Then, having picked up the first strand of hair with a comb in his right hand, the master intercepts it with his left hand between the index and middle fingers and pulls it forward. Having determined the desired length of hair, the master cuts off their ends, protruding over the fingers of the left hand.

Not only students, but even novice masters, with this method, injure the fingers of their left hand with scissors. It is necessary to learn to keep the fingers of the left hand in a half-bent position and cut only those hairs that are captured no further than the second bend of the index finger.

Hair is cut sequentially in strands, first from the middle of the forehead to the crown, and then from the forehead to the right to the temple. When processing the left side of the head, the master moves to the left side, becomes facing the visitor; grabbing the hair from the forehead, the master combs it away from himself towards the top of the head and in this state passes it to the left hand. The haircut on the fingers is finished by trimming the hair on the forehead in two ways: when cutting with a parting, comb the parting and, pressing the hair with your left hand to the forehead, cut it parallel to the eyebrows,

If there is no parting, then the hair is combed forward and cut along the forehead "on the fingers". Hair on other parts of the head is cut from right to left. Regardless of where the hair is being cut, they need to be captured in thin strands.

When the next strand is captured for cutting, a part of the hair of the previously cut strand (or the previous strip) is grabbed with it and only those hairs that are longer than the cut ones are cut. This achieves uniform cutting at the same level.

Hair is removed "on the fingers" regardless of the parting, and the length of the hair should be the same everywhere. Starting a haircut "on the fingers", the master holds both a comb and scissors in his right hand. Comb - with thumb and forefinger, and scissors with one ring are put on ring finger, and the other ring is clasped in the palm of your hand.

The position of the scissors and comb changes very quickly during subsequent operations. As soon as the hair enters the left hand, the comb is also transferred to the left hand between the thumb and forefinger. The released thumb is inserted into the free ring of scissors. As soon as the hair is cut, the thumb of the left hand is again removed from the ring of scissors. They are clamped in the palm of your hand, and the comb passes to the right hand, with which the hair is combed again on the forehead, then it is captured and transferred to the left hand.

thinning- this is such a way of cutting all over the head or in its separate sections, when, while maintaining the length of the hair, they make them less frequent (thick hair is cut). This is done with thinning scissors, a razor, as well as ordinary scissors (Fig. 22).

It is convenient to mill long hair with simple scissors. The master separates the desired strand of hair, combs it and transfers it to the left hand between the index and middle fingers. The hair is stretched and then milled, i.e., with the tip of the open scissors, they slide along the stretched hair from the ends to the roots so that the hair, bumping into the tip of the scissors (by the way, they are slightly closed), cut along the length in different places. When the scissors return to their original position, i.e. from the roots to the ends, the blade of the scissors is opened wide so as not to touch the hair and cut it off.

It is much easier to work with thinning scissors (Fig. 23), since the hair does not pinch with the left hand, they grab a strand of hair and bring the lower web of the open scissors under it (they are held in the right hand with a screw slot away from you, ends to the left). Tightly squeezing the blade, cut off the hair, stepping back from the roots by 3-4 cm. You cannot cut the hair at the very root.

When thinning with a razor, cutting the hair along the stretched strand, the blade should slide very easily, removing the hair from right to left 3-4 cm from the roots. The razor moves along an oblique line.

Thinning is absolutely necessary for very thick hair. In this case, the hair is parted into the lower and upper row. In order for the hair of the upper row not to interfere, they are laid and the lower row is milled. Having processed it, they take a new section of hair, also divide it with a parting, etc. This is done until all the hair is profiled.

Cutting hair with scissors over a comb, like many other works, is produced in stripes. The width of the strip is approximately equal to the grip of the hair with a comb and scissors, and the length of the strip is from the neck to the top of the head. They usually cut the first strip, then the one next to it on the right, etc.

The comb moves slowly against the growth of the hair all the time, and the angle of its deviation from the skin changes depending on the length of the hair.

Long hair should be constantly pulled back with a comb to make it more convenient to cut at some distance from the scalp.

Some young masters when cutting long hair often get "ladders", "ledges", etc., since they pull only the lower hair with a comb, while the upper ones remain in a bent position.

Sometimes when cutting long hair, you have to grab a large strand of hair at once with a comb. In such cases, you can apply the "juggling" method: closed scissors are brought under the layer of the taken strand and they lift the layer, making it more convex. Then the hair is pulled back and the ends are cut off.

It is not uncommon to have to “twist” the hair several times in the same area until all the hair on the comb is straightened.

During the haircut, you need to comb the hair down more often, which allows you to determine how evenly it is cut.

After the first strip, they start cutting the second strip, focusing on the length of the hair of the cut half. To do this, a part of this strip is captured with a comb and a further haircut is made at its level.

Then they move on to cutting the third strip (on the right), located near the ear shell. Haircut is done by the second method of holding scissors and a comb. The hair is caught only by the end of the comb (about 1 cm), and the rest of the comb is set aside so that it does not touch the hair growing further from the edge. Using this technique, the master can capture more hair near the ear, and the farther from the ear, the less.

In the process of cutting, it is necessary to comb the hair in the direction from the crown to the ear, so that it is easier to grab it with a comb and you can see how much it needs to be cut. If the combed hair extends 1 cm onto the hair-free skin, then they must be cut to this length.

The light strip, which reveals the shading of the hair around the ear, should be no more than 1 cm wide (on the back, on the neck, its width with a short haircut is 2-4 cm, and with a long haircut - 1-2 cm). Above this strip, the hair is left long.

After shading, the edges of the hair behind the ear continue to cut the third strip. Hair growing above the edge is cut, proceeding to the first technique of holding the comb and scissors. To do this, they bring the right hand with scissors from above behind the ear, grab the hair with a comb beyond the cut edge (against their growth) and cut it.

Having finished cutting the strip of hair from the back of the ear, you should cut the hair at the temple. Observing the rules of reducing hair "to nothing", you need to pry closed scissors under them, lift and put a comb. In this case, you should not advance the comb deep into the hair, as its butt will prevent you from subtly reducing them to nothing.

To finally finish the shading on top of the ear, the master bends the ear shell down with a comb or right hand, picks up the uncut hair and cuts it.

After making sure that the edges of the hair around the ear and temple are cut sufficiently, proceed to further cutting. Shading can be considered correct when the light line along the lower edge of the hair is even.

On the right side of the head there is still a protrusion of hair above the temple. Here, the hair at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the edge should be reduced to nothing, and the rest of them should be gradually shaded towards the crown. To avoid cutting hair on the right and left sides of the head, it must be remembered that the hair here should be the same length as the hair of the back (first and second) stripes located at the same distance from the top of the head. It is better to leave the hair in this place longer than to shorten it excessively.

Having finished completely cutting the right side, proceed to cutting the left. The master stands behind the client and cuts the strip lying next to the middle, already cut strip. Cutting strip after strip to the left, the master approaches the area near the left ear. Here, with his left hand, he brings the comb from above behind the ear and pushes it a little, grabbing the edges of the hair. Having captured them, the master holds the butt of the comb in one place, without moving it forward and deflecting only the teeth.

In this place, the ear interferes with work, especially its highest point, therefore, you should reject it with a comb, cutting the hair “to no” in this position, and then move on to cutting the hair above the ear - towards the crown.

When cutting hair on the left temple, the master stands in front of the client on the left side, using the second method of holding the comb and scissors. Once the trimming of the band around the ear is finished, the master proceeds again to the first technique of holding them to cut the hair growing above the ear. Part of the hair growing above the temple, on the ledge, the master combs forward, towards the face and, putting open scissors under them, cuts along the edge. This method completely replaces the shading and is much easier.

After the haircut, the short hair is combed out, the sheet is removed from the visitor, the hair is moistened with cologne or toilet water, the head is tied with a napkin (if the hairstyle needs to be fixed for a long time).

Small cut hair is best combed out if a thin layer of cotton wool is strung on a comb. Before removing the sheet, you should remove the napkin with cotton wool placed behind the collar.

Hair is moistened with cologne from a spray bottle. After they are evenly moistened, they are combed, taking into account the shape of the hairstyle.

The head is tied with a napkin in two ways. The master unfolds the napkin and, holding it with both hands at opposite ends, lowers it onto the client's head. In the middle of the forehead, the edge of the napkin is captured with both hands, which are then transferred to the back of the head. Here, all four corners of the napkin are gathered, two in each hand, stretched tightly on the visitor's head, and the ends are twisted with bundles from the bottom up. Moreover, the bundles are tied with a knot so that this knot is located below the occipital protuberance, somewhat to the side, since otherwise the knot will prevent the visitor from taking a comfortable position during shaving.

In the second method, as in the first, the napkin is first placed on the forehead, the two front ends are pulled back and tied with a knot. The ends of the napkin below the knot are pulled down to straighten the formed folds.

Remove the bandage in the reverse order, carefully so as not to disturb the hairstyle.

STATE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION

SECONDARY VOCATIONAL EDUCATION

"ASTRAKHAN STATE COLLEGE OF PROFESSIONAL TECHNOLOGIES"

COURSE PROJECT

BY THEME: "MODERN METHODS OF HAIR CUTTING"

Completed: student of group 3-10 PI

Osipova E.P.

Head: Nazarova R.V.

ASTRAKHAN 2005

Introduction

Section 1. Theoretical part

1.1 General information about hair cutting

1.2 Modern methods and techniques for cutting hair

1.2.2 Thinning with a razor

2.1.1 General information

2.1.2 Combs

2.1.3 Scissors

2.1.4 Razors

2.2.2 Style for every day

2.2.3 Grotesque

2.2.5 Sports haircut

Conclusion

1.2.1 Modern methods of thinning with scissors

1. Zigzag saw method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the scissors are held vertically and the required length of hair is cut in a zigzag.

2. The injection method. The strand is pulled perpendicular to the head, the ends of the scissors make point cuts of individual hairs, creating an undercoat.

3. Plucking method. It can be done with the ends of the scissors in a sliding motion both above and below the fingers.

4. Sliding cut. It is performed with thinning scissors, which seem to slide smoothly through the hair.

5. Thinning on a twisted strand. A small strand is twisted with a flagellum and incised in several places with the ends of the scissors.

6. The method of fleece. The strand is perpendicular to the head, the open blades of the scissors are inserted into it and move from top to bottom.

1.2.2 Thinning with a razor

Scraping. The hair is divided into zones in accordance with the cutting lines, the razor is led towards the ends of the hair in front of the comb. This method is performed if the hairstyle requires a tighter fit of the hair to the head (only on curly coarse hair).

Tumming. The comb is positioned with the teeth up and combs through the hair. The razor moves parallel to the comb in the opposite direction.

Slip. The hair is combed out with a comb, the razor glides smoothly through the hair towards the ends.

The bouffant method. The strand is located perpendicular to the head, the razor moves from the ends to the roots, imitating a fleece (flagellum).

Blunt cut with a razor. On the twisted strand, we pull small strands perpendicularly, twist into a bundle, cut off the ends with a razor.

Thinning a twisted strand using the "scrape" method. We separate the strand in the form of a square, twist it, pull it perpendicular to the head and mill it with cutting movements towards the ends.

1.2.3 Modern methods of hair treatment

Pointcut(pointcut) - a point jagged cut from the ends of the hair to the middle (for thinning).

Polishing- dotted jagged cut from the middle of the strand to the ends.

Pointing- sliding serrated cut from the middle of the hair to the ends (with straight scissors):

Ponting - a jagged cut, sliding from the ends of the hair to the middle to dry (more obtuse angle);

Pancroting - a sliding jagged cut from the ends of the hair to the middle to dry (it is possible on wet hair) (sharper).

Slicing(clithing) - a sliding cut with straight scissors from the roots of the hair to its ends, the angle is 30-60 °.

When styling hair up, slicing is performed from the outside, and down - from the inside.

1.2.4 Modern cutting techniques

Neominimalism - simple haircuts with straight scissors, without jagged cuts and thinning. minimum details and simple form(square).

Geometric- geometric shapes, details, hair cutting.

corridors- non-connecting parts. Cut with straight scissors. Corridors come in different lengths, can be arranged in parallel or in a checkerboard pattern.

Non-connecting connected parts- unconnected in form, but connected in image.

1.3 Factors influencing the choice of haircut

The right choice of haircut will allow the hairdresser to correct the flaws in appearance and pay attention to its advantages. When choosing a haircut as the basis for a hairstyle, it is necessary to take into account the individuality of a person’s appearance, as well as the existing anatomical features, i.e. The choice of haircut is determined by the following factors.

1. Head and face shape. Due to the fact that the shapes of the male and female heads are different, haircuts also differ: angular lines predominate in men's haircuts, and rounded ones in women's.

2. Dimensions. Shoulder width, height, build, etc.

3. Hairline border. In men, for example, the border of hair growth on the neck is located lower than in women, and the frontal recesses are more pronounced.

4. Type and features of hair growth. Most often, the difficulties of performing a haircut are observed at the crown, in the frontal and occipital parts of the head.

5. Hair density. In different areas of the head, the density of hair is different. Usually there is less hair density behind the auricle, in the lower occipital zone, as well as in the frontal recesses and the top of the head. When choosing a haircut, this must be taken into account.

6. forehead height. For example, a high forehead must be covered with bangs.

7. Profile. There are three types of profile: straight (ideal), not requiring correction; convex - with a protruding middle part (in this case, the volume of the hairstyle on the forehead must be increased); concave - with a protruding chin (in this case, a haircut with a small bang is necessary, i.e. it is not recommended to increase the volume of the hairstyle in the forehead area).

8. Neck width. The triangular edging of the hair on the neck visually reduces the width of the nape, and the straight line increases it.

Section 2. Technological part

2.1 Tools, equipment, devices used in the performance of modern model haircuts

2.1.1 General information

The hairdresser's tool is designed to perform various operations with hair (haircuts, styling, etc.). All tools used for hair treatment, according to their purpose, can be divided into three main types:

1) tools for combing hair;

2) hair cutting tools;

3) hair styling and curling tools.

The quality of work depends on the ability to properly use each type of hairdressing tool. Therefore, the hairdresser must know all the hairdressing tools and be able to use them correctly.

The choice of tool for performing various operations depends on the task assigned to the hairdresser, i.e. the use of each tool allows you to get a certain effect, which determines its choice.

Various devices used in hairdressing salons help the master in his work, facilitate the performance of certain operations and protect the client from discomfort.

Electrical equipment used in hairdressing is designed to dry hair and accelerate chemical processes during dyeing and curling.

2.1.2 Combs

When cutting and styling hair, it is necessary to comb the hair to distribute it evenly. For this purpose, combs are used, the components of which are the butt and teeth. Combs vary in length, width and frequency of teeth. Wide combs are used when working with wide strands of hair, small combs are used when working with small strands or when doing very short haircuts. The frequent arrangement of the teeth causes a strong tension in the hair, which does not occur with the sparser arrangement of the teeth.

According to the material from which combs are made, they are divided into metal, wood, bone and plastic.

When combing wet hair, metal combs damage their outer scaly layer, causing the hair to become brittle, brittle and delaminate into two or more parts. Due to the fact that the master most often works with wet hair, the use of metal combs in hairdressing salons is strictly prohibited. . Wooden combs do not harm the hair, but they are not suitable for use in hairdressing salons.

Bone combs are very expensive and most often come in the form of combs and various clips used as decorative items.

Plastic combs are the most common type of tool today. They differ in the quality of the plastic. All combs used for hairdressing must be made of high quality plastic with antistatic properties, in addition, they must be flexible and durable.

The famous Hercules company produces rubber combs that are very well polished during processing and therefore practically do not damage the outer scaly layer of the hair. Their only drawback is fragility, i.e., with very strong pressure, they can break.

Currently, silicone combs, which are particularly durable and safe, have found wide application.

Combs used in hairdressing are always smooth, do not slip in the hand, have pronounced angles, while ordinary combs slide in the hand, have an oval shape and magnetize the hair during combing.

By appointment, all combs can be divided into four main types.

1. Combination comb is a comb whose working surface has frequent and rare teeth. It can be used for both women's and men's rooms. Combs of small size with a thinner butt are more often used in the men's room. Combined comb - universal, used for combing, cutting, cold and hot styling, as well as combing and blunting hair .

2. A comb with a uniform arrangement of teeth. On its working surface there are only frequent or only rare teeth. Such combs are used when combing hair and cutting in the women's room.

3. A comb with a pointed handle - a comb-tail. It is used when winding hair on curlers and bobbins, i.e., where a clear separation of hair into strands is necessary. This comb should not be used when cutting hair.

4. A comb with an ordinary handle and a comb with a fork are used for coloring and styling hair.

Brushes are also used to massage the scalp, comb and style the hair. They may have bristle, plastic or metal teeth. It is preferable to use brushes with natural bristle teeth, as they pull the hair better during styling. There are two types of brushes: flat and round.

Flat brushes (Fig. 1) are used for scalp massage and hair styling. At the ends of the teeth of such brushes, there should be balls that serve to protect the scalp from scratches. During styling, the master lifts the hair at the roots with flat brushes to give volume to the hairstyle. Blow-drying with a flat brush is called bombing.

Rice. 1 - Flat brushes

Round brushes (Fig. 2), called "brushing", are used when styling to shape the ends of the hair. Blow-drying with a round brush is also called brushing.

Rice. 2 - Round brushes "brushing"

All brushes should have sufficiently stiff bristles and a hollow base for free passage of air. The brush teeth are not the same height.

"Striper" is a kind of combs for coloring hair. With the help of these combs, operations such as highlighting and coloring are performed, especially on hair whose length is 25 - 30 cm. The "Striper" has a special nozzle, usually rectangular in shape with several holes. When combining the nozzle with the comb, its holes clearly coincide with the gaps between the teeth, therefore, when applying the dye to the nozzle, it is located on the teeth of the comb itself at a certain distance. Then a strand of hair is combed. The teeth of the comb are arranged in such a way that the dye is wrapped around the strand and compressed tightly, thus eliminating the possibility of dyeing the following strands.

Comb for highlighting and coloring. With the help of this comb, highlighting and coloring are performed using special paper or foil. From the central axis of the comb, teeth extend in different directions, bent at the ends in a triangle, which allows them to pry strands of hair. A comb can have up to four rows of teeth. Each row has a different distance between the teeth (from 3 to 10 mm). Depending on what result you want to get, a certain row of teeth is used.

The selected strand of hair is pulled perpendicular to the head, then the teeth of a certain row of combs are inserted perpendicular to it and lifted, pulling the strands intended for dyeing at the same distance from each other. Next, the main strand is released, and the strands intended for dyeing remain raised.

By placing special paper or foil under these strands, a dye is applied to them. Such an operation is carried out over the entire head or partially in some of its zones.

Scissors consist of three parts: two identical halves and a fastening screw. Each half of the scissors consists of a ring, a lever and a working blade. The working canvas has a sting, end and butt.

There are three types of hairdressing scissors: straight, thinning and flag.

Straight scissors (Fig. 3) are designed for cutting hair, beards and mustaches, as well as thinning. They differ from ordinary (household) scissors in the quality of the steel from which they are made, the angle of sharpening of the working blades, and the presence of sharp tips.

Rice. 3 - Straight scissors

Straight scissors can be with a long, medium and short working blade. Scissors with a long working blade are most often used for haircuts in the men's room. Scissors with an average working blade are universal and are used in both men's and women's halls. Scissors with a short working blade are used to work only in the women's room, since the cut of the strand when cutting women's hair is often made from the inside of the fingers.

Thinning scissors are used to perform thinning and shading of hair. They are of two types: one-sided and two-sided. Bilateral thinning scissors have teeth on two working blades, and one-sided thinning scissors have teeth on only one blade (Fig. 4). When working with thinning scissors, the hair that falls between the teeth remains long, and the hair that falls on the teeth is cut off. Therefore, single-sided scissors cut more hair than double-sided scissors.

Rice. 4 - One-sided thinning scissors

Flag scissors (Fig. 5) are used for simultaneous cutting and thinning of hair. One working blade of such scissors is either ordinary straight, or with fine teeth, like thinning shears, or with two wide teeth, and a nozzle with some pattern is put on the second working blade.

When cutting hair with such scissors, you can get strands with thinning of the ends of the hair according to the pattern of the nozzle, many short and long strands with a pattern at the ends of the hair, as well as short strands with elongation along the edges and a pattern at the ends of the hair.

When working, the scissors are held on the first phalanges of the fingers of the right hand, while the thumb is in the lower ring, and the ring finger is in the upper ring.

The index and middle fingers are located on the upper arm of the scissors. Only the thumb works.

Rice. 5 - Flag shears

2.1.4 Razors

In hairdressing, two types of razors are used: dangerous and thinning.

Straight razors are designed for shaving the face and head, as well as for cutting and thinning hair. Straight razors are classic and with a changing blade, the so-called machines. The classic razor consists of two parts: a blade and a handle-case . The blade, in turn, consists of three parts: the working blade b, the neck with notches and the tail . The working cloth includes a butt, a head, a sting , heel and radius groove.

Depending on the shape of the working blade, razors with deep and small radius grooves are distinguished. The deeper the radius groove, the thinner and sharper the razor blade.

Currently, classic razors are not used due to their non-compliance with sanitary and hygienic requirements.

Thinning razor , intended only for cutting and thinning hair, consists of the following main parts: handle, safety comb, blade, fixing screw and guide pins. All parts of the razor can be made of plastic or metal. Combined razors made of plastic and metal are widely used. The safety comb has teeth on both sides (usually 7-9 pieces on each side), which can be oblique or straight. The width of the safety comb, together with the teeth, is 6-8 mm greater than the width of the blade. The protruding teeth of the safety comb make the razor safe.

2.1.5 Hairdressing equipment

For hairdressing, the following devices are most often used.

Spray gun - for wetting hair during cutting and styling, as well as applying various lotions that create volume for the hairstyle.

Bowls - for the preparation of dyes, fixers for perms and other hair care products.

Brushes - for breeding and applying dyes and other preparations.

Shaker - for mixing dyes.

Sponges - for application chemical composition and fixer.

Plastic and metal clips - for separating hair into zones and strands during cutting, styling, treatment and coloring.

Insulating cap used for perm and hair treatment.

The mask used for fixing the styling.

They also use a timer, special collars, caps for highlighting hair, beakers, rubber gloves and much more.

2.2 Modern haircut technology

2.2.1 Haircut with styling and color from CiroApicella

Highlight the parietal zone with a circular zigzag parting.

Starting from the back of the head, select large sections of hair and cut them using the "slicing" technique.

Using the trimmed section as a guide, continue cutting all the way around the hairstyle.

Go to the crown and select a guide strand. 6

Trim the hair at the crown, gradually reducing its length to give lightness to the hairstyle.

Dry your hair after you finish cutting.

Then work the ends of your hair with the tips of the scissors to make them more airy.

2.2.2 Style for every day

"Daily" - style - an idea for every day. Clear geometric lines of the hairstyle are designed to emphasize the decisiveness of the character.

Select two levels of hairstyle vertical sections of 2 cm each.

Having formed vertical sections, cut the hair, the occipital zone, using the “slicing” technique.

Trim your front hair from ear to ear.

If necessary, trim the nape again and comb through the sections left untouched.

Our choice is blonde with all its shades, from neutral to platinum, from copper to gold. Original combinations of warm tones that emphasize the clarity of lines will help bring additional dynamics to the hairstyle.

2.2.3 Grotesque

Start cutting from the back of the head. Separate the strands with horizontal partings and pull at an angle of 20 °.

Cut the temporal zones in the same way.

Using the “ponting” method, cut the hair of the parietal zone, separating the strands with vertical partings.

Perform final trimming.

2.2.4 Haircut with zigzag bangs

Treat the hair of the temporal-lateral zone, pulling it to the side perpendicular to the surface of the head, using the “pointcut” technique, and then go to the occipital zone and cut it to the middle.

Treat the opposite side of the head in the same way.

Connect the hair with the hair of the frontal parietal zone using the "zigzag" technique.

Bangs are also decorated using the “zigzag” technique.

Perform the edging of the back of the head.

2.2.5 Sports haircut

On the parietal zone, separate the strand and set its length. This strand will be the control. Then cut the parietal and lateral zones.

Cut the occipital and temporal-lateral zones with vertical partings. The occipital area can be cut off “to nothing” or left slightly elongated for greater splendor.

Make a fringing, the length of the hair behind the ears - as desired.

Moisten the hair well and use the sliding technique to cut under the comb with a razor over the entire head.

Use simple scissors to process the entire hairstyle using a jagged uneven cut. The resulting hair length drop effect makes cutting easier. Create a "ruffy" effect using the same haircut technique. Dry the haircut with a hair dryer. Gel can be used for styling.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we summarize the main results term paper.

Thanks to the emerging new silhouettes and forms of haircuts, hairstyles, a person gains hope to meet the criteria of modern fashion.

In the process of writing a term paper, I studied new methods used in the performance of modern haircuts.

Based on the studied material, the following conclusions can be drawn.

In my opinion, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of the client's face, you can choose a haircut for him using any of the described haircut methods. And this haircut will delight him with its novelty and originality.

In my opinion, the progress of hairdressing is possible thanks to the use of completely new modern methods for performing haircuts.

Bibliography

1. O.N. Kuleshova, O.B. Iltaeva, T.N. Butko "Fundamentals of Hair Design" - M., 2004.

2. E. Kurmanaevskaya. "My own hairdresser." - Rostov-on-Don, 2004.

3. N.G. Moiseev. "The Art of the Hair". - Rostov-on-Don, 2004.

4. Catalog of hairstyles "Estetica" No. 1/2005 (15).