not for the first time and, disappointed in her from the first days, began to explore the surroundings.
Big Utrish - a village in the Krasnodar Territory, 18 km from Anapa, famous for its juniper groves (Big Utrish reserve), a lighthouse and ... nudist beaches)))
The road to Utrish is very picturesque, not far from the entrance to the village there is a small observation deck (gazebo), where you can stop for a beautiful photo. If you see parked cars on the left side, then you came here in the velvet season, there are no parking spaces left below and you can safely park and go further on foot (there are paid parking lots in the village, but with an hourly rate, I don’t remember how much, but it seemed expensive to me ).
Our goal was "lagoons" that's what the locals call them. These are the places that were previously considered nudist beaches, now they go there in search of solitude and the purest sea water. You can get to these lagoons two ways. Standard: go to the left of the main entrance to the beach, where boats stand and act as city minibuses - they collect people and transport them to the desired lagoons (there are only 3 lagoons). The lagoons are located far from the beach, you can of course walk along the coast, but it will be hard to enjoy your vacation from fatigue. The fare is 200 rubles / person.
Second way - ours is not to know where to go, to leave the entrance to the right and cling to the excursion boat, which takes tourists on an excursion to the Bolshoy Utrish reserve. They agreed to take us with them and take us to the first lagoon, they also paid them 200 rubles per person (the tour itself was more expensive), and listened to the history of Bolshoy Utrish as a bonus, and then they called us to the reserve itself.
It's very cool there. We were on the first lagoon and just reached the second. There are very few people, the beach is pebbly, clean, the water is clear ... The coast is 10 meters, then the rocky mountains, there are no trails on them, the way back is only on shuttle boats, they often go until late in the evening.
Let's take a walk along the coast from Bolshoy Utrish to Novorossiysk. More precisely, I have already been there, learned to photograph and travel, now I will show you. After we finished, I noticed that autumn is in the juice itself, we should rejoice. The day was warm, perhaps the last warm day in October, the sun shone like summer, and I went for a swim in the Small Utrish.
UPD. By the way, October 31 is International Black Sea Day.
2. Big Utrish.
Bolshoy Utrish - a village, somewhere 2000 people 15 km. from Anapa, on the cape there is a dolphinarium, there is a lighthouse, and there are many tourists in the summer. Small Utrish - a village at a distance of 4 lagoons from the Big. Utrish - a unique relic juniper-pistachio forest, clear sea, mountainous, dry, sea air, natural beauties, downshifters, tourist travelers, alcoholic drug addicts, foresters, fishermen, a couple of locals, builders, goats, cows, wild animals, military and scientists.
3. From Anapa by bus, they run every 20 minutes. From Sukko to Utrish I rode a yellow school bus, it was funny.
4. Went down to the shore.
5. I went out at 12 o'clock. It's good that I put on sneakers, not sneakers, as before. In good shoes you walk and do not get tired, even all day. I took water and a lot of chocolates with nuts, sweets with marmalade and a cookie. Snickers was the most delicious. Then, after a couple of days, a friend told me that it is best to take dates on the road, they are the most energy-intensive, a lot of vitamins, tasty and you can slowly eat like candy.
6. The road between Utrish consists of 4 lagoons. On the 2nd and 3rd lagoons, there has been an unspoken nudist beach for many years. And on the first lagoon, the sea threw out a buoy, which is painted differently every year.
9.1 UPD. My photos on Yandex were commented by the user kosty1958. At one time, "Konstantinovsky Beach" was written on the barrel, apparently this is that Konstantin. Funny man. There are more photos on the link. And by the way, he is also the author of the stella in the ninth photo.
on Yandex.Photos
10. First lagoon.
11. There are quite a lot of rock paintings and inscriptions along the shore, some are simple, with a marker, but most are painted with paints, with arrangement and plainly.
12. Small waterfall. Shower in summer.
18. This is how nudists live, almost 9 months a year.
20. Suddenly, a Ka-25 flew by. And three times in different directions. They say they are building Medvedev's dacha. For this, they pave the way through a unique forest, many of whose trees are in the Red Book.
21. On all lagoons stands about the nature of Utrish. They talk about rare species of juniper growing here. Juniper high, juniper odorous (smelly), juniper prickly. The tree smells very delicious, there is nothing to compare. And the distillation of juniper berries is gin.
22. Garbage is collected in bags, and then taken away on boats, but still people are not animals, and therefore you can often find tin cans, broken bottles, bags and all sorts of rubbish on the shore.
23. Movement for the salvation of Utrish from assholes, the construction of a road through the forest and summer cottages of the leadership
Continuing to explore the popular Krasnodar holiday destinations, Kublog has prepared for all connoisseurs of the sea and nudism instructions on how to get to the cult place of hippies and hipsters this summer - the tent Utrish. To do this, we talked to people who have been going there for decades, as well as those who have recently returned from the lagoons and made a detailed description.
Big Utrish near Anapa is a landscape-floristic and marine reserve with an area of more than five thousand hectares. It is located between the villages of Sukko and Maly Utrish.
In fact, this is a cap of reserved vegetation on sloping mountains, breaking off with rocky walls to the sea, and a chain of lagoons below. On these beaches, for the past few decades, tourists, outcasts, hippie people from all over the CIS and even pregnant women who would like to give birth to a child in the sea have chosen their places to stay.
Everyone in Krasnodar has probably heard about Utrish. Most likely, these were stories about beautiful places filled with nudists, junipers and a sea transparent as a tear. To nudism here, however, is not specifically forced - just being in the costumes of Adam and Eve in these places does not surprise anyone.
“Here, everyone who could previously be found in the Cellar of Exemplary Content is only naked,” one of the regulars of these places told Kublog.
AT last years As you know, a lot has changed on Utrish. The former territory of the freedom-loving spirit has decreased, access to the first and fourth lagoons has been blocked, dachas are being built over the second and third lagoons, and the Big Utrish reserve is going to be liquidated for the construction of the residence of the Presidential Administration and so on.
The history of the struggle of environmental activists against the liquidation of the Bolshoy Utrish reserve and the construction of government dachas in the protected area can be read in the blog of a Russian ecologist and civil activist.
And yet, a mere mortal can still get to the beautiful rocks and pebble black sand remote from civilization. By sea.
Access to the second and third lagoons accessible to the public is not possible by land and is guarded.
“It is problematic to get to the permitted places along the shore. Although it is possible until the huntsmen are not working (or are not working anymore), ”the user writes on February 3, 2013 in the Utrish Club LiveJournal community fluger19.
But you can get to the places allowed to visit by boat. At the same time, a waterfall - a common place for pilgrims - is located in the first (closed) lagoon, and a spring with drinking water- in the fourth (also closed). It turns out that the inhabitants wild places forced to carry water with them, and in large quantities.
There is, however, another (forbidden) way. This means driving on a closed road through the mountains, where all the specially protected objects of the reserve are located: junipers, pistachio trees, Pitsunda pines. In a strange way, this, according to experts, the most significant protected area is not included in the list of territories of the Utrish State Nature Reserve, which, however, does not prevent rangers from protecting it from visitors.
Kublog will not give advice on getting to the cherished beaches in an unsafe way and offers instructions on how to travel by sea to the lagoons allowed to visit.
So, we get to Anapa and take minibus 109 (41 rubles) - to the village of Bolshoi Utrish. The whole journey is 15 kilometers.
Before us is a small village with three beaches - a typical resort village. If you are by car, then you run into a barrier and your eyes are presented with such a “menu” for your stay:
The central beach of Utrish is not much different from ordinary crowded beaches in Anapa, Gelendzhik or other coastal settlements: in the high season, the number human bodies per square meter inspires demographic optimism.
Before a complete separation from civilization on the Central Beach, you can finally visit one of the three cafes: “Summer”, “Fort Utrish” and “Robinson” (such an ancient institution that it even acquired a check-in in social network foursquare).
And fishermen and boats will be waiting for you here, ready to happily carry ignorant tourists along the coveted lagoons for one and a half to two thousand rubles.
But don't rush.
To the left of Central beach the so-called Peninsula Beach is located. The most dangerous of all - it is a former pier with iron beams sticking out of the water.
And behind it lies the Konstantinovsky beach, from which the first lagoon begins: the passage to it is strictly guarded by the local forestry.
Go to the border between the beaches and look for a parking lot of "budget" boats there, which will carry you with a breeze to the reserved Utrish for 150-200 rubles. (The fare is indicated for one person and one bag.)
Attention! The Konstantinovsky beach itself is surrounded by a fence, you just can’t get to it. You can get to the boats by going down the stairs to the Peninsula Beach and passing through it.
Olesya Kravtsova visited Utrish on May 10-11, 2013 and shares her impressions with Kublog:
“When we reached the waterfall, uniformed citizens swam up in a boat and began to turn us back. Fortunately, the boatman turned out to be a good man and threw up to the second lagoon. In general, nature, atmosphere, etc. beautiful. Rumor has it that on weekends and holidays, security at lagoons 1 and 4 is enhanced (and there are water sources right there). In the summer it is better not to go there, because there are a lot of people, everyone tramples a little bit. And the valleys of white papers flourish ... Take care of Utrish!
Indeed, closer to the middle of summer, the Utrish lagoons are overcrowded with people. And people, as you know, bring garbage with them. So don't forget to take sturdy trash bags with you when you travel, so you can take it with you later.
Finally, two reviews about the rest on Utrish.
Quote from the post of the same LJ community "Club Utrish" from the user misli_po_povodu. Date - August 30, 2012:
“Utrish is full of alcohol trash. From the 2nd to the 4th lagoon inclusive. Most of all, it’s not even the fact that some dumb dudes are wandering around, bullying each other and rubbing pocan graters. They carry around hefty RECs. And they climb quite far and high with them. Tape music is heard everywhere, especially late at night. Even on the 4th.
Here's what Kublog said Grigory Selikov who returned from the third lagoon a few days ago:
“No matter what anyone says, I love Utrish and will always come back here. Now, of course, there are problems with both water and transport, but these are all trifles compared to the return that you get in a real “place of power”: the summer singing of cicadas, the sound of the surf, the smell of the forest and people who, for the most part, are very friendly. There is an indescribable atmosphere here that beckons and beckons back every time. ”
We draw your attention to the fact that in the photo report for this material there are no views taken from the lagoons, which are accessed by boats. Photographer Mikhail Stupin took pictures of the road to the village of Bolshoi Utrish, as well as the main beaches of this locality. To look at more remote beaches, you have to go there. Good luck and have a good rest!
Behind the village of Bolshoi Utrish, if you walk along the coast towards the village of Maly Utrish, small-pebble "wild" beaches begin, about 25-30 meters wide, which gradually turn into a kind of beach for nudists. The first of these places is located directly behind the "Pearl" waterfall. This nudist beach will not be difficult to "recognize", since immediately before entering it you can see a solid-sized stone with an unambiguous inscription "Leave your clothes, everyone who enters here." That's what it is FIRST UTRIS LAGOON. Further towards the Small Utrish there are three more lagoons, which, due to the distance of their location, are not so often visited by tourists. Thanks to this, here you can be alone with yourself, silence and the sea, admiring the azure sea and the unhurried rustle of the waves. From the village of Bolshoi Utrish, you can swim to any of the FOUR LAGOONS by sea taxi (motor boat or boat) for 100-200 rubles per person, depending on which lagoon you wish to get to. Well, people with iron hardening can go on a trip to the lagoons on foot. It will take a long time to walk, but it's worth it! Now let's talk in more detail about each of the FOUR LAGOONS.
FIRST LAGOON starts directly from the waterfall "Pearl" and ends at CAPE CROCODILE. Here are the main nudist beaches on Utrish. It is here that tourists from all over Russia seek to sunbathe "topless". FIRST LAGOON is located on the territory of a protected reserve. The Cossacks are guarding, they don’t let anyone along the seashore, so you can only go to the lagoon along a forest path, rising 15 meters above the seashore, or sailing on a motor boat to the SECOND LAGOON and returning on foot in the opposite direction. Here you will find absolutely no signs of civilization. People resting here collect drinking water from the "Pearl" waterfall, and stock up on food in the village. It's actually amazing beautiful place with pristine nature, juniper forest and small pebble beach.
CAPE CROCODILE, that's what the locals called it, located just between the first and second lagoons. This cape is essentially a hill, on top of which grow Utrish cedar, fir and, of course, the famous juniper. From the sea, this cape looks like a steep rock resembling the head of a crocodile. From CAPE CROCODILE, the territory of legal recreation for vacationers starts, namely the SECOND LAGOON.
As soon as you go around CAPE CROCODILE, you will immediately get to the SECOND LAGOON. It is small in size, but densely populated by Goans. This is how the locals call the "inhabitants" of the summer lagoons. Everyone lives here: avant-garde artists, hippie lazybones, harmless sectarians and just outcasts who fled to hell (each for their own reason) from the civilization of the 21st century. On the SECOND LAGOON you can absolutely legally relax for all tourists without exception. Vacationers here put up tents, sunbathe and, of course, swim. The coast consists of medium and small pebbles. The entrance to the sea is quite smooth, without sharp drops, at the bottom there are small pebbles. Local "Goans" entertain themselves on their own: they catch katran and red mullet, sunbathe naked, play drums and tambourines. In the evenings, all this motley audience gathers around the fire and meets the "sunset". By the way, as the locals say, the most delicious fish soup comes from Utrish ruffs! Come - try it!
About 700 meters after the second lagoon, the THIRD LAGOON originates. The beach here consists of large pebbles. Swimming here, especially with children, is not very convenient because of the large stones. On the THIRD LAGOON there is another unique place on the Big Utrish - this Lake "Picturesque". It is separated from the sea only by a narrow strip of beach. And on the very shore of the lake, the famous junipers grow. A few years ago there were not very many people here, but recently the THIRD LAGOON has gained well-deserved popularity. Now there are much more tourists on it, because this lagoon is not included in the Utrishsky Reserve and in the summer there are a lot of lovers of "wild" recreation here. Everyone gets to the THIRD LAGOON in the same way as to all other lagoons - on foot or by motor boats. Despite the increased popularity of this place, often, silence and tranquility reign on the beach. On the beach of the THIRD LAGOON there is a special information stand for tourists with a brief "code of conduct" in these places. It is important to follow the established rules, since all the lands around belong to the lands of the forest fund. And nature must be protected! How many nudists take care of it on the THIRD LAGOON beach, who feel great here. But among those who like to go naked there are dressed ones, fortunately, everyone gets along!
CABLE BEACH is located in a picturesque place between the third and fourth lagoons. You can get to it (attention!) only by rope! This rope is thrown to the beach from a cliff about 10 meters high. For this very reason, the locals called it the beach ROPPING. There are many times fewer people here than on any of the lagoons, since not everyone knows how to crawl along a tightrope. A beach with small pebbles, but directly at the entrance to the water there are stones and a little more. If you decide to visit this burning place in every sense, be careful.
To FOURTH LAGOON, just like the first one, the entrance is blocked by the Cossacks of the Anapa District Cossack Society, guarding the Utrish Reserve. FOURTH LAGOON You will recognize immediately, as it is the longest in length (about 2 kilometers in length). It is located under a tall mountain, overgrown with wild Utrish cedar. You can enjoy the view of this lagoon from the sea, sailing here on a motor boat or yacht. We remind you that you can rent them at a special marine parking lot on Bolshoy Utrish.
Approximately 600 meters after the fourth lagoon is CAPE EZHIK. It is from him that the Small Utrish originates. So uncomplicatedly this cape was nicknamed by local fishermen and mussel breeders. If you take a sober look at this cape from the sea, you will definitely notice the similarity of the cape with a hedgehog. If you don’t notice the similarities, then a mountain in the form of a volcano, located just in the background of CAPE EZHIK, will serve as a guide for you.
Is on our Black Sea coast one section of almost wild beach. And it is located between the villages of Bolshoi and Maly Utrish on the Abrau Peninsula. Mountains and rocks approach the shore in this place, so roads were not historically built there. But four natural lagoons were formed, quite small between the mountains and the sea.
In 2010, part of the territory of the peninsula was declared a nature reserve, thus deciding to calm down environmentalists who did not allow the last relic juniper-pistachio forests to be cut down for the sake of building a "sports and recreation" complex of the Presidential Administration and the road to it. Accordingly, part of the 1st and 4th lagoons are not available for recreation.
A piece of the Russian Mediterranean - this is how the Utrish woodlands are called. Pistachios and several types of juniper grow here as if by some accident! Of course, these unique forests are all traversed by paths, and closer to the coast, vacationers in tents settle in them. But it should be noted that the "locals" treat trees, especially junipers, with respect - they do not break trees, and there are practically no fires, everything is cooked on gas stoves.
The climate here is very dry, as proof I found ephedra right on the beach on a rolling pin.
Since there are no roads to the lagoons, and even a reserve was established, there is only one way to officially get there - by boat from Bolshoi Utrish. It takes 10 minutes to walk to the 1st lagoon and it is the cheapest. We used this method, escaping with Arina for 10 days into the wild.
The reserve goes to the sea and occupies a part of the water area between Bolshoy Utrish and the 1st lagoon, so it is forbidden to go along the coast to the lagoons. But where is the law, where are the SPNA inspectors and where are the people? In the evening, when the cardon of the reserve leaves his post, a real pilgrimage begins from the lagoons to the mainland and back, as well as to the waterfall, which is located very close to the 1st lagoon, but already on the territory of the reserve. This, by the way, is the only source of water on the entire coast.
Paradise was waiting for us in the truest sense of the word - that was the name of our camp. In general, in the lagoons it is not so easy to come and stand up with tents. First, everything good places as a rule, they are busy, and secondly, they live on the lagoons for a long time and everyone knows each other. New people will be looked at, and if anything, they will not be allowed to set up a camp. They say that there are even "watchers" who sign in and write out vacationers :). We haven't seen the house book, I don't know...
Camps are set up in the lagoons thoroughly. Just such mini-towns. someone even lays out the walls of pebbles :). Everyone usually has stoves and gas from the mainland (many fill the cylinders). We had a rope playground for kids, hammocks, equipped kitchen, tables and chairs, light from large lanterns at night, sun awnings, tents...
Holidays with children - measured and on schedule. We got up, had breakfast and ran to the sea, until by 11-12 o’clock it didn’t start to fry us at all like chickens on a spit :).
This is the number of people on the beach at 10.30... A dream, right? :) Actually, this is a frame towards the reserve, no one goes there to go to the beach, as the inspector sits in the bushes and sees everyone out. But in the other direction, not much more people honestly.
Arina not only posed, but also learned to swim! They brought armlets as a necessity, but by the last day they could no longer find them in the mountain of unnecessary things. The child swam by herself :).
It is almost impossible to walk on the pebbles without shoes. It’s a little easier for children, they have a smaller foot, and adults often went in shales :)
Our poseurs :). Once again, looking through the photos, I appreciate that there is NO ONE in the background!
After that, we ran across the hot pebbles to the camp to prepare dinner. What is good about such a holiday is that children, of necessity, become part of the team, receive their area of responsibility in some domestic issues, grow up :). Here they help in the kitchen. Or washing dishes.
In addition to people, cats and dogs live on Utrish. They are not specific to anyone, they go from camp to camp, stay where they like best, or run around on the beach. Here is our Rag. The kitten was so nicknamed because of the color it is sometimes difficult to notice, and several times the poor creature turned out to be under the booty, then under the foot of a person - it seemed that with serious consequences. But every time she somehow came back to life.
After lunch, it was study time. Someone read, someone did written assignments (we had a table!), someone board games bunched up to play. Many children there are also like cats and dogs - they run around all the camps all day long, their parents do not take a steam bath. We often could find 2-4 cubs, they did not complex about the fact that the whole day they were not in their camp with their parents.
They also engaged in all sorts of creative work spontaneously. Someone will have paints, then rubber bands, then floss threads. The child learned to weave baubles, as we did in childhood, remember, on a pin? :)
After 16.00 we crawled out to the sea again. And by the way, it was necessary to go 80 meters :). Always by the sea, all 10 days! This is a fairy tale in reality ... And the sea has been all sorts. There were waves and calm. In a storm from 3 points boats do not go and we caught one such day.
After a storm, it usually brings jellyfish. Sometimes so much that at a certain angle it seems that this is not the sea, this is milk jelly ...
Sometimes in the evening or in the morning we climbed the mountains. They are not very steep, and there are a lot of trails, I would even say too many (some people have not uploaded photos yet, so there are not many photos yet). Forests are wonderful and deserve separate words. But I'm short. There really grows at least three types of juniper, I thought. One is prickly and smells familiar, as we imagine the smell of juniper. A couple of others are more like thuja and their wood does not smell particularly special. The hills offer a picturesque view of the sea and other mountains. In general, beauty!
If the mountains were not enough in terms of extreme sports, then the children found it for themselves :). This is apparently one of the residents using a rope to go down from the camp to the sea and back up ... By the way, some people live on Utrish all year round. Don't ask me how :), just live.
Sometimes we walked along the beach towards 2-3 lagoons. We swam and just walked for a change in our measured life. These are the inconveniences located between the lagoons. They say that it is dangerous to be in such places in winter - the sea hits the rocks, and it can pour from above.
There are more people on other lagoons, there are lakes (or I would say swamps). It is believed that 2-3 lagoons are for parties, and the 1st is calm, more suitable for families with children.
In general, about people - this is a separate big topic. For me it was an experience. Specific. I never felt like a part of that community that focuses on Utrish. For the most part, they are very unusual for me, and I disagree with a lot of them. But it's good that there is different people. The main thing is that the general atmosphere on the lagoons is quite friendly, I would even say it feels like in a commune. One of the old-timers said that there was one comrade who dragged electronics from people from the camps, so they found him, had an educational conversation, distributed everything to the owners, and he was forced to clean up garbage along the beach, which, by the way, is many times less in the lagoons, than on the mainland... In general, theft is an exception, in general the space is very safety.
Mandatory daily ritual was farewell to the sun at sunset. More precisely, not mandatory, but what to do with such sunsets! Every day is different. We did not observe a single similar one in 10 days. Colors, waves, noise - everything is unique...
We went ashore. Someone improvised on the guitar, someone sat down with a flute, someone just lay there, there were those who felt the strength and the need to dance. And this moment, when the sun is completely hidden behind the horizon - it turns out to be very clearly defined.
And once again about the conservation of nature.
- "Residents" really treat Utrish as a dwelling, it is felt as soon as you get off the boat. The beach is pretty clean. If something remains, then such a small amount of garbage is burned on a common night fire.
- About fires. They are not welcomed by the inhabitants themselves. It is not every day that a common large fire is lit on the shore, to which people pull themselves up, they mostly sing songs. Since there is very little firewood, they usually use some larger tree thrown out by a storm. It is not always nailed to the lagoon, sometimes men go for such a catch for a couple of kilometers :).
- They try not to touch the trees, especially the junipers. Therefore, instead of a fire for cooking, gas stoves are used in each camp. There is no need to explain that since gas is bought or refueled on the mainland, it is greatly saved, cylinders are disconnected when the stove is not needed.
- Drinking water is usually imported from the mainland. Here you can fully feel what it means to SAVE WATER! You can wash dishes and wash yourself in salt water. Fresh water was used for cooking and for rinsing fruit, and so to drink from thirst. Tea was worth its weight in gold and was collected in thermoses. Everything is the same - it’s impossible to bring a lot from the mainland on a boat, so it’s good to wash fruits and vegetables in sea water, and then rinse in a small amount of fresh water.
- The problem of garbage in the camps is solved in different ways. We did so. Organic - they put it in a small hole and sprinkled it with sand, they probably could burn something (but very little, on a common fire), the rest was taken out by boat to Bolshoi Utrish.
- Of course, there is no electricity in the lagoons. Those who went to the city took the devices and charged them in the car, as much as they could. This was enough for communication and a little for tablets. In the evening, lighting on rechargeable flashlights, including diode ones, including stationary ones overhead.
On Utrish, everyone says "Good ..." to each other - in the morning, afternoon, evening and night - always. There's always a good morning.